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j3h' \^>D3-H-7
Tk gi|t o\
WILLIAM ENDICOTT JB.
ggC HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY^^
I .
V ;-
-»)
LONDON!
JOHN EBEBS AND CO. OLD BOND STREET.
^(
VW \ 5* I 3 ■ f
&
' JAf;.2 1918 *■
i} Jilt 4^
C. WHITTINGHAM, GHISWICK.
.2}
CONTENTS.
▼OL. II.
Chaptbr I. Manoertoh.
GffiDBB. — Leahy,Picket| and Mountain Mahooy .— Aicent
of the Mountain. — Sketch of " a Kerry Dragoon."—
Criticism on Weld.— The Bevirs Punch Bowl.^View
from Mangerton described. — Cowm na Coppul, or the
Glen of the Horse. — Legend of Billy Thompson and
his Cow.— Page 1 to 82.
Chapter II. The Village Fair.
Hint for Travellers about to ascend Mangerton. — Paddy
Glissane's Public House at Cloghereen.— The Fair
Ground.— Sketch of a Meeting.— A Tent.— << Affidavit
Men.'' — Dispute between Shoemaker and Brogue
Maker.— *' Paddy Connor the Jobber." — Legend of
the Charm, — ^The Minehan and Donoghue Factions. —
Sketch of the Parting. — An agreeable Letter. — Page
23 to 40.
Chapter III. The Stag Hunt.
Doolan and the Waiter in Argument. — Killamey on the
Morning of a Stag Hunt. — Embarkation at Ross. — Mr.
O'Conneirs Barge. — Arrival in Dinis Pool.— Passing
the Rapids under old Weir Bridge. — ^Assemblage to
see the Hunt— The Chase.— The Stag taken.— Irish
Oratory. — Return. — The Stag freed .— lunisfallen. —
Glen^ by Mooal^ht. — Legend of Aiieen a Roon. —
IT CONTENTS.
Arrival at Ross. — Anti-musical Magistrates. — Up
Street and Down Street. — The Barry and Leary Fac-
tions. — Page 41 to 59.
Chapter IV. A Sunday in Killarney.
The Church Bell.— First Mass.— Sketch of the Chapel
Door. — Sketch of the Hurlers and the Priest — Har-
^ vest Weather. — Legend of the Blessed Cake. — The
Church and the Clergymen. — A Protestant Lady
Kenmare. — New Lights.— ^Mary Minehan's Conver-
sion. — Sunday Morning Conversation. — Churchwar-
dens. — Election* and Predestination. — Page 60 to 75.
Chapter V. Funerals and Wakes.
Singular Mendicant. — Notions of a Future State. — Plan
for an economical Wake. — A Dinner at Garden
Cottage. — Ude. — Sketches illustrative of Irish Wakes
and Funerals. — Account of a Child's Wake. — Legend
of Tom Coghlan and the little Red Cap. — Page 76
to 99.
Chapter VI. The Lake of Killbran.
Sketches of Oorham's Eagles. — Mrs. Falvey's Freeholds.
— Lord Kenmare's Park. — Mr. Cronin's. — Lake of
Killbran. — Legend of Loch Bran, or the Lake of the
Burning Cole.-^Page 100 to 118.
Chapter VII. Ahahunnig.
Spa of Tullig. — Sketch of a Female Peasant. — Tiema-
bowl. — The Hanging Tree. — The Mac Sweenies. —
Legend of the White Maiden of Tiernabowl. — The
Druids' Circle. — Legend of Donald Egeelagh. — Lamp-
light in Killarney. — Christening an Island. — Miss
Plummer's Island.— Page 119 to 139.
i
CONTENTS* V
Chapter VIII. Loch RnrANE*
View of the* Lower Lake. — Lough Ardagh. — A Kerry
College described.— Song of ** Mister Byrne." — The
Road to Loch Kittane. — Loch Kittane. — Kippoch
Legend Hunting.— Sketch of the Interior of a Cabin
at Feeding Time. — An Irish Love Song. — Verses to
Loch Kittane.— Page 140 to 157.
Chapter IX. Phuadown.
J>efinition of the word Glen. — Killaha Castle. — New
and old lines of Road.— The Doctor. — Exterior of a
Whiskey Shop. — Daniel O'Donoghne. — Interior of a
Whiskey Shop. >— Sketch of Hunted Excisemen. —
Description of Olanflesk. — Waterfalls.— Philadown.
— Labi|pOwen. — Account of Owen the* Outlaw. —
Sketch of his Capture.— The River Flesk.— Kindness
of the, Glensters. — Inch House. — The Invitation
accepted.— Page 158 to 178.
Chapter X. A Night in the Oijins.
Description of Daniel 0'Donoghue*s Cabin. — Arrival of
the Company. — Sketch of Jig Dancers and Piper. —
Legend of the Wizard of Dingle. — An Irish Night*
cap.— Page 179 to 195.
Chapter XL The Return.
The Morning Walk. — Wordsworth. — Sayings and
Doings. — Mountain Torrent at Crohane. — Breakfast
in Daniel O'Donoghue^s Cabin. — Farewell to 61an'>
flesk.— Killaha Castle. — Father O'Reily* — Monu-
mental Inscriptions. — A Recruiting Party. — Quarters
at the Inn occupie(|. — English Gentlemen. — Geology
of Mncruss. — Law Case.— Gandsey. — Irish Melodies
and Whiskey Punch. — "The Step of the Glens." —
" The Eagle's Whistle."—" Lamentations for Myles
O'Reilly the Slasher."— "The Widow's Lamentation."
Gandsey's Song on Killarney.— Page 196 to 223.
▼i COMTBMW.
Chapter XII. Thb Departure.
The Weather Fish of Killanie7Chiirch.^Amyal of the
Tralee Mail Coach. — Preparations for Starting^—
Departure.— The Coach stopped.— Mr. I^ynch's Packet.
— A Rillarney Bank Note. — Farewell to RiUamey^ —
. Acknowledgment of the Editor's Obligations. — Letter
from Mr. Lynch, commenting on the Proof Sheets sent
him. — Pamphlet on Mary Minehan's Case. — Letter
from Gandsey.— Conclusion.'— Page 224 to 243.
• •
LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
CHAPTER I.
MANGERTON.
"Mangeeton — Mangerton — what's the mat-
ter V I muttered^ as starting from my sleep I
beheld Mr. Lynch at my bedside.
'^ Mangerton — Mangerton/' said he, '^ a fine
morning for Mangerton, you have not a mo-
ment to'lose; the climate is so uncertain that
though the mountain is clear now, it may in
a short time be covered with a huge cloudy
nightcap— so up and away."
Dressing myself in all haste, I bustled down
stairs, contrived to bustle through a tolerable
breakfast, ordered horses, and was about to
bustle off with Mr. Lynch for the mountain^
when two or three ino-runners stood before
VOL. II. B
^ LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
US, with rather more imposing appearance than
that of apparitions^ generally speakings and
began to contend for the appointment of
" guide to his honour's honour.*'
^^ I'm his honouf's guide/' said Leahy ;
*' didn't his honour promise to take me to
Mangerton with him^ and sure 'tisn't back of
his word you'd have the gentleman be going?"
" 'Tis me his honour w^ill have/' said Picket,
'^ so you may just as well not be bothering the
gentleman, long life to him."
" Fakes, then, and indeed he won't do no
such thing," said Mountain Mahony ; " his
honour knows well enough it was f. bespoke
Mangerton, the very first day his honour came
to Killarney; and sure 'tis I that have, as I
ought, the best right to the mountain any
how."
** Picket," said I, " you know that I pro-
mised to take Leahy ; therefore, Leahy, for^
ward if you please."
" Well/' said Mountain Mahony, heaving a
deep sigh as we moved on, " well, did you
ever know the likes of that, and I, after waiting
so long for him ?"
After leaving the village of Cloghereen, we
MANGERTON. S
turaed to the left, and pursued a narrow road
which, passing close to the mill pond, led up
the base of the mountain ; this road, however,
we soon abandoned for a mountain path that
struck off to the right, and shortly brought us
to the foot of the steep ascent, up which our
horses managed to climb by a sort of rude
track that ran along the bank of a ravine,
which had been the bed of a torrent, almost
until we arrived at the DeviPs Punch bowl.
On our ascent, and his descent^ we met one
of that class of peasants, termed in the country
'^ Kerry dragoons,'* who, seated in a most ex«
traordinary manner between his baskets, which
each contained a firkin of butter, galloped
fearlessly down the mountain, without seeming
to have the smallest apprehension for his neck.
Mere he is, as he passed us, singing,
^< Arrah, Thady, you gander,
YouVe like a highlander,
For want of the breeches — for want of the breeches*.
Take a gun in your fist,
Man, His better go list,
Thaft be mending old ditches — a mending old ditches.
* A kind of half pantaloon, commonly worn by the
Irish peasantry, and, properly, by people of all nations
at Almacks, and elsewhere. It appears to be a rhyme
of which Mr. Lutterell is ignorant.
4 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
" A shilling a day,
Failh, 'U3 mighty fine pay,
lis double a Uster — 'tia double a tester ;
With a bagnet and gun,
To fire out of fiui,
Oh,theking'3abraveninis(«r — theking'sabraTemoiifer.'"
" HuTTOO hod!''' — And away he went.
I have slated that each basket contained a
firkin of butter; and, upon this subject, Mr.
Weld Bays he " was informed hy a friend, that
when he first visited Kerry, at which period
improvement and civilization were in their in-
fancy, it was very usual to see a cask of butler
MANGEBTON. 5
on one side, and a large stone on the other to
balance it; but it has since been discovered
that one cask is the best counterpoise to
another, and every horse is now doubly laden/*
— Very true, indeed ! — but did Mr. Weld think
of asking how people were to manage who
had only one cask to take to market i
Dismounting from our horses, we gave them
in charge to a mountaineer, of whom several
had followed us in the expectation of reward
for any accidental employment, each assuring
us that he, and he alone, was the true ** man
of the mountain.*' We then proceeded to
examine the DeviPs Punch bowl, a mountain
lake, remarkable only for its depth, the coldness
of its water, and a certain small but tremulous
echo. Climbing the southern side of '^ the
bowl," which is the highest paft of Mangerton,
we passed by a spot where hones are dug for
and found, and from thence advanced, by the
summit of the mountain, to the eastern verge
of the lake.
" Here's a scene for description !" said Mr.
Lynch — " the Guide Book — the Guide Book.
Now, gentle reader, that's the way to com-
mence the paragraph for the top of Mangerton
LEGENDS OF THE XAKES.
Mountain-^Nowy gentle reader^ look to the
south, and tell me if here is not a noble pros*
pect ? the river Kenmare, that huge arm of
the ocean, stretching itself for miles and miles
between those blue hills that rush down to
its very edge, as if they meant to kick it out
of its channel. See how its waves glitter in
the bright sun-beams, which have struggled
through that heavy cloud ; and do but observe
those islands which dot its broad bosom, like
the beauty spots on your fair lady's cheek.*'
" Pooh, pooh, Lynch."
<' Oh, I am not to be silenced in this man-
ner," said that gentleman. '^ Look to the
west, if you please, and behold Ireland's boast,
and Kerry's wonder — the beautiful Lakes of
Killarney — mark that river winding its course
among the mountains, from lake to lake, and
uniting the wide-spread grandeur of the one
with the compressed charms of the other. And
there behold Lord Brandon's round tower, at
the head of the Upper Lake. Behold the sea
of mountains rolling their rugged waves to the
east and to the west. One might really fancy
that the country which we view had been a
stormy sea, struck by the mighty wand of a
MANGERTON. 7
magiciaa^ and fixed for ever. And then the
little mountain lakes, how they sparkle over
this waste, like stars in the gloomy firmament."
^* And this is the style you recommend for
my Guide Book ?"
*' Well," said Mr. Lynch, " if I was not
the best tempered fellow in the world, I should
really feel annoyed. But as I have taken the
trouble to ascend Mangerton this morning to
be showman to your honour, it is not fair to
put me out thus in my description— one sen-
tence more shall finish it. Look to the north,
and behold the white smoke of the tpwn of
Killarney, with a green hill behind it, and the
blue and distant mountains of Tralee shutting
up the scene with their vast, cloudy and dim^
discovered forms."
" Thank you very much. Lynch. The litho-
graphic panorama of the lakes, by Major
O'Donnell, faded into insignificance before
your coup d*osil — but this is a matter which
you military heroes appear particularly to
study "*« We now stand on the ridge which
* See a very interesting note by Major Ludlow Beamish,
on his translation of Bismark's Cavalry Tactics.* p. 5.
8 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
forms the eastern verge of the DeviPs Punch
bowl : pray \i hat is this glen beneath us called ?
Though a work of danger, I should like to
descend."
'^ It is called Cowm na Coppul, or the Gien
of the Horse,** replied Mr. Lynch ; ** but be-
fore you proceed to explore it, let me recom-
mend a sandwich, after which I will detain
you five minutes while I read you a story, the
scene of which being placed in the Horse's
Glen, may perhaps rend^ your visit more
interesting.^'
To both these proposals I readily assented ;
a few sandwiches were produced, we sat down,
and, after their disappearance, Mr. Lynch
commenced his story of
BILLY THOMPSON AND HIS COW.
** There was once a poor man who rented a
few stony acres on a little hill at the foot of
Mangerton Mountain, in the kingdom of Kerry.
Now the kingdom of Kerry, and the great
mountain of Mangerton, with the Devil's
Punch bowl on the top of it, are as well
MANGERTON. 9
known as any other wonder in the world ; but
the wonderful adventures of Billy Thompson
(for this was the name of the poor man I have
mentioned) and his cow, being as little known
as if they never occurred, I will now record
them to the confusion of all who are so hardy
as to doubt the power of the good people.
'^ You must know then, that Billy was a
little fellow, about five feet nothing high, and
as smart and as tight a boy was he as any man
of his inches, no matter who the other is. And
what was better than all this, Billy was a very
industrious^ hard-working lad ; and, by the same
token, a very good proof he gave of it, for his
bit of ground, when he got it, was powdered
all over with huge stones, so that a weasel
could hardly thrust his snout between them;
and over these again there was a thick coat of
furze, so that the whole place looked for all
the w^orld like a great green hedgehog. But
fiilly had a long lease and a short rent, so he
went to work with all his might and main,
and burned the furze, and made fences of the
stones, and built himself a cabin on the top
of the bill, and a mighty bleak place it was to
10 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
build it on. However Billy didn't much mind
that^ for if he had a little body, he had a great
soul^ and scorned to be looked down upon by
any one; besides^ Wwas fond of a prospect;
and if he was, he had k to -his hearths content*
'' No sooner had Billy Thompson his bit of
land cleared, his potatoes sown, and his cabin
builtj than He began to^ithink it was high time
to look for a wife. Before long he was married
to Judy Donoghue of Glanflesk, who got a
good fortune from her father, it being no less
than a featherbed, six rush- bottomed chairs^
an iron pot, a settle- bed, a collop of sheep, a
maol cow, and a pig, though there was great
fauxtering about this last matter, and the match
was broken off at least six times on accouut of
it; but Billy stood out stoutly for the pig, till
the old man gave in at last, and so they were
married.
'* It's an old saying, and a true one, that
^ there are more married than keep good
houses/ as Billy soon found to his cost; for
Judy was very prolific,, presenting him occa*
sionally with two youngsters at a time, till at last
it was said of Billy, as of the wren, ^ although
'^-^ -
MANGBRTON* 1 1
he's littlcy his family's great' Now it hap-
pened unfortunately for Billy^ that while Judy
was increasing his family^ one misfortune after
another was decreasing his stock ; his sheep
died of the rot^ and bis pig got the measles^ so
that he w as obliged to sell it for little or nothing.
' Well/ said Billy^ who was a good-humoured
fellow^ and wished to make the best of every
thing ; ' Well, it can't be helped, so (here's no
use in breaking one's heart, ^nd any how, we
can't want the drop of milk to our praties as
long as the Maol cow's left to comfort us/
The words were hardly out of his mouth, when
Paddy Kennely came running up to tell him
that the Maol cow was clifted in the Horse's
Glen ; for Billy, you must know, had sent
his cow that very morning to graze on the
mountain.
<**Och! Ullagoner cried Bill, ' what'll we
do now at all, we're ruined for ever and a day.
Och^ Maol 1 how could you be such a cruel
unnatural baste^ as to clift yourself, you that I
fought was as cunning as a christian, when you
knowed as well as myself that we couldn't do
without you at all ; for sure enough the childer
will be crying for the drop of milk to their
12 l5:gends of the lakes,
vraties; and Judy 11 leech the life out of me
for sending you to the mountain^ and she agin
it all along/
** Such was Bill Thompson's lament^ as, with
a sorrowful heart, he made the best of his way
to the Horse's Glen, intending to get the hide
of his clifted cow, and conceal the carcass
under some rock, until he could borrow a horse
to bring it home ; for, thought he, ^ 'tis better
to have something than nothing, and there'll be
a good price got for the skin surely, and the
mate^ll make fine broth for the grawls any
how.'
**The sun was riding high by the time he got
into the Glen, and then it took him some space
before he could find where the poor beast was
lying, but at last he did find her, all smashed
to pieces at the foot of a big rock. * Worse,
and worse ! there'll be hardly any thing got for
the skin, and the mate*s scarcely worth a
thraneen (a straw), but where is the use to
make bad worse ? said Billy ; and he began to
skin the cow as fast as he could, but having no
one to lend him a hand, by the time the job
was finished, the sun had gone down. A faint
light, however, still streaked the top of the
MANOERTON. 13
oaountain, while the hollow of Cown na Coppul
was thrown into d^ep shadow by the rocky
precipices which enclosed it; a low wind
murmured a]ong the dark breast of the fathom-
less pool^ which lay in the bottom of thisi
fuonntain valley^ and its waters answered to
the night breeze with a deep and hollow growl,
93 the black waves rolled sluggishly against
their bounds. From the south-eastern verge
of the water, the mountain rose steep and ab*
rupt, but made a somewhat wider sweep to the
west ; so that in this place there was a marshy,
plain between the pool, and the wall-like hill,
which towered above it ; this plain was strewed
all over with huge gray rocks, that looked in
the dim twilight like so many spectres.
'^ Now, Billy Thompson was so intent on hi^.
job, that he did not perceive the lapse of time ;
but, when his work was finished, he raised his
head, and looking about, was surprised at the
lateness of the hour ; and when he heard the
murmuring wind, mingled with the hoarse rep] j
of the dark and sluggish pool, multiplied as
these sounds w^re by a thousand hill-born
echoes, hishea^t failed him, for his imagination
converted these sounds into the aerial whisper-
14 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
ings of the fanciful beings, with which his feaf^
had already peopled the recesses of the gray
and shadowy rocks which surrounded him.
All the tales he had ever heard> of the Pooka,
the Banshee, and the little red-capM mischiavous
fairy, floated through his mind ; when, by an
effort expecting to end his fears, he suddenly
snatched a tuft of grass, wiped his knife, and
seized hold of the reeking hide, intending to
make the best of his way out of the Glen.
'' It is well known, that a four-leaved sham-
rock has the power .to open a man's eyes to all
sorts of enchantment, and it so happened, that
there was one in the little tuft of grass, with
which Billy had wiped his knife. Whether
from grief, or fear, or from both together, I
know not; but iqstead of throwing it away, he
put the grass into his pocket along with the
knife ; and when he turned to take a last lin^-
gering look at the carcass of .his cow, he beheld,
il^stead of his poor Maol, a little old curmud-'
ge(» sitting bolt upright, and looking as if he
had just been flayed alive. If Billy was fright*
ened at the sight, it was still worse with him
when the little fellow called after him in a shrill
squeaking voice, ^ Bill Thompson ! Bill Thomp-
MANOERTON. 15
80d! you spalpeeii^ you'd better come back with
my skin ; a pretty time of day we're come to,
when a gentleman like me, can't take a bit of
a sleepy but an Ounshaugh of a fellow must
com^ and strip the hide off him ; but you'd
better bring it back Bill Thompson, or I'll
make you remember how you have dared to
skin me, you spalpeen/
" Now, Billy Thompson, though he was
greatly frightened at first, had a stout heart of
his own in him ; so he began to muster up his
courage, for he saw it was a clear case, that his
Maol cow was carried away by the good people,
and he thought if he was stiff with the little
curmudgeon, he might, may be, get her back
again ; besides if the worst came to the worst,
he thought he could safely defy him, as he had
a black handled knife in his pocket, and who-
ever has that, 'tis said, may look all the ghosts
and fairies in the world full in the face, without
quaking. Billy Thompson therefore took
heart, and seeing there was a civil distanc^Se-
tween them, he began to discourse the little
fellow ; at the same time, however, keeping
his hand on the black handled knife for fear of
accidents.
l6 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
*( i Why tben^ jour honour, if it's the skin
you're after waQting, you must kuow it's the skio
of my poor Maol cow, that was clifted yooder
there; the Lord rest her sowlj for a better
baste never walked on four legs/ 'tis a long day
till I see the likes of her again ; and sore and
sorrowful the childer will be for the want of
her little drop of milk ; but it can't be helped^
and there's no use in talking ; so God be wid
your honour, any how ;' said Billy, as he pre-
tended to take his departure.
u i Why then, is that what you'd be after,
Billy ma boughiir^ (my boy); said the little
imp, at the same time jumping before bim
wilh the speed of a greyhound ; * do you think.
I'm such a gomal as to let you walk off with
my skin, without so much as ^ by your lave?*
But ril tell you what it is ; if you don^t drop
it in the turn of a hand, you'll sup sorrow may
be.'—
'' ' Badershin !' said Billy, at the same time^
drawing out his black handled knife, and putting
himself in a posture of defence ; ' may be you
willj but the never a one of me will give you
the skin, till you give me back my Maol cow ;
for don't 1 know well enough that she wasn't
MANGERTON. 1?
clifted at all, at all, and that you, and the
breed of you, have got hould of her/
*' * You'd better keep a civil tongue in your
head any how,' said the little fellow, who
seemed to get quite soft at the sight of the
knife, * and how do you know but I'd befriend
you ? for you're a stout fellow, Bill Thompson,
and I've taken a fancy to you ; so if you'd just
be after giving me the skin, I don't say but I
might get you the cow again.'
** ^ Thank ye kindly for the loan of your
pickaxe,' said Billy, winking slily; 'give me
the cow first, and then I will.'
" * Well, there she's for you, you unbelieving
hound !' said the little imp. — And for certain,
what would he hear, but his Maol cow screech-
ing behind him for the bare life ; for he knew
the screech of her among a thousand ; and
when he looked behind, what should he see
but his cow sure enough, running over the
rocks and stones, with a long spansel hanging
to one of her legs, and four little fellows with
red caps on them, hunting her as fast as they
could.
"< There'll be a bit of a battle for her, Billy,'
VOL. 11. c
18 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
said the little curmudgeon^ ' there'll be a bit
.of a battle for her; two of the bo^s that are
after her, belong to another faction; so do joo
see, while they are fighting about her, you can
drive her away fair and easy, and no one will
be a bit the wiser of it, barring myself-r-but
rU be no hinderance to you, — and that's more
than you deserve from me, Billy Tliompson^*
" * My jewel you are!' said Billy, quite de-
lighted with the hope of getting his cow again,
though he was half afraid the little fellow
intended playing him false, and he didn't much
believe what he said. Nevertheless it was all
true enough, for no sooner did the four little
chaps with the red caps come up with one
another, than they began to fight In the mean
time, the Maol cow, finding herself at liberty,
ran towards Billy, who lost not a moment, but,
throwing the skin on the ground, seized the cov^
by the tail, and began to drive her away as fast
as he could,
'< ' Not so fast, Billy,' sadd the little imp, who
stuck close by his side ; ^ not so fast, Billy,
for though I gave you the cow, I didn't give
you the spansel that's hanging to her leg.*
MANGEBTON. 19
^^^ A bai^ain's a bargain,^ said BiHy, ' so do
you see^ as I got it^ I'll keep spaosel and all/
^* ^ If you say that again,* said the little imp,
^ I'll just be after calling the boys that are
fighting below there, and five to one will be
more than a match for you, Billy Tbompsoni
as canning as you think yourself with diat black*
handled knife. But I don't want to be too
bard on you, so if you have a mind for the
spansel^ I'll give you it for the little tuft of
grass you have in your pocket/
** ^ It's done,' said Billy, who by this time had
got to the top of a cliff, from whence he could
see his own farm, in the distance, shining in the
clear moonlight, while directly beneath him^
lay the deep hollow of Cown na Coppul, where
the four red-capped fairies were fighting away
as fierce as ever the Black hens and Magpies
fought. Now Billy Thompson was fond of a
bit of a skirmish, and was sure to be seen at
the head of his faction on a fair day, when he
often flourished his stick in triumph. So finding
himself at a safe distance, he thought it no
harm to stop a bit, just to see how the good
people handled a blatkthorn.
^' If he loved a real battle, there was one that
£0 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
matched him completely, for th^ glen resounded
again with the shouts of the fairies, and the
clash of their sticks. But there was one of the
little fellows who fought ten times better than
all the rest, striking double-handed blows right
and left ; till Billy in the delight of his heart,
quite forgetting his cow and the necessity of
silence, shouted as loud as he could, ' Well
done, redcap ! Here's a Thompson ! here's a
Thompson for redcap !' The glen echoed with
the deep tones of his voice, and the astonished
combatants, looking up, perceived the cause of
their contention was gone^ and set off at 'full
speed to recover the cow.
*' * You're done for now, Billy Thompson/
said the little imp, who stood near him, ^ but
lose no time in giving me the tuft of grass, and
I'll lend you a lift.' ' There, take it,' said Billy.
No sooner was it out of his hand, than he
received a blow, which in a moment dashed him
to the ground with such force, that he was quite
stunned. When he came to himself, the suiv
was shining ; and where should he be but lying
near the bounds ditch of his own farm, with
his Maol cow grazing beside him ; and to be
9urQ be would never have got her again, or havQ
MANGERTON. 21
come off so well, if it wasn't for the four-leaved
shamrock and the black-handled knife.
^^ Billy Thompson could hardly believe his
eyes, and thought it was ail a dream, till he
saw the spansel hanging to his cow's leg ; and
that was the lucky spansel to him, for, from
that day out, his cow gave more milk than any
six cows in the parish ; and Billy began to
look up in the world, and take farms, and pur-
chase cattle, till at last he became as rich as
Darner; but the world would never after get
him to go to the Horse's Glen. And he never
passes a fort, or hears a blast of wind, without
taking off his hat, with a * God save ye, gen-
tlemen,' in compliment to the good people;
and 'tis only fitting for him so to do, if there be
any truth in Moll Bardin, . who told me the
whole story just as she says it happened, and
as I have related it."
'< Oh, I must have this for my Gui'de Book,
Lynch."
" It is quite at your service — but as we
intend returning through the Glen of the
Horse, we had better despatch a messenger
with orders to have our steeds taken to the
s
22 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
foot of the mountain — and now for our perilous
descent."
This we accomplished by sitting and sliding
down into the hollow of Cown na Coppul, of
which it becomes unnecessary for me to say
any thing further, in the way of descrtption,
after Mr. Lynch's story.
A toilsome walk brought us to the foot of
the mountain, where finding our horses, we
rode towards the village of Cloghereen.
^^
CHAP. II.
THE VILLAGE FAIR.
Whoever undertakes to ascend Mangerton
should be provided with a well stored basket
of prog; since there a man can get nothing
to eat but stones, which are rather indigestible
food, and nothing to drink, but a drop out of
the Devil's Punch bowl — cold comfortless stuff
it is ! Now, though we were not quite so foolish
as to ascend Mangerton without any supply,
yet the keenness of the mountain air was such,
that our small stock of provisions soon proved
rather an insufficient offering to the cravings
of the inward man ; — ^your little trifling sand-
wiches are not the thing ; and unless the reader
takes some more substantial food with him,
when he proceeds on a similar excursion, I
stake my reputation as a traveller, on the fact,
that he will make as much haste to the next
inn^ as we did to Paddy Glissane's public
bouse in the village of Cloghereen : there we
hoped to procure some of that refreshment,
which the aforesaid Paddy Glissane so hos-
£4* LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
pitablj offers to all who can afford to pay
for it.
To our great disappobtinent, however^ we
found Paddy's house crowded to excess^ and
the little peaceful village turned into a scene
of riot and confusion. It was the fair day (
and finding it impossible to gain admittance,
we were obliged to seek^ in the fair itself, some
means of allaying our hunger.
The fair ground consisted of two gentle
slopes on the public road ; in the hollow be-
tween, a bridge of rude masonry spanned a
little stream, which issuing from a large pond,
dashed over a mill-wheel, and brawled along
till it entered the demesne of Mucruss. At
each side of the road was some common ground,
behind which appeared the straggling cottages
of the villagers, and over the whole peered the
gigantic forms of Mangerton and Turk, with
the wild and variegated woods of Miicruss.
The road was lined >vith the tables or stands
of dealers in dillisk, (a dried seaweed of a pink
colour, and no bad relish it is to a bit of
bread and butter), fruits, frize, flannel, croo-^
beens (Anglice pigs' feet), and, in short, every
hing necessary for rustic economy and ei^y*
THE VILLAGE FAIR. 25
ment; while the common ground was occupied
by horses, cows, and pigs, with their buyers
and sellers.
Here were to be seen groups of giggling
girls, with their riband-adorned caps and blue
cloaks; and there whispering matrons with
their shawled heads : here were men occupied
in shrewd bargains, with their frize loodies
(large loose coats), corduroy breeches, and well
seasoned sticks — sticks not destined long to
remain inactive ; there a half gentleman — a
squireen, known by his body coat with brass
buttons, Caroline hat, and polished boots armed
with biit one spur : here leaders of opposing
factions scowled defiance at each other; and
there may be seen the joyous recognition of
long-parted gossips.
'' Oh ! murder! Murty Sullivan, is that you
this blessed day, every step of the way from
Kenmare itself, back again to us ?"
" Tim Ryan, my jewel, and is that you, your
own self that I see with my two eyes before
me — if 'twasn't transported I hard you were
last Tralee 'sizes f Oh \ then 'tis myself is
glad to see you once mofe. And sure the
never a part will we part now, till we have
26 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
juBt one drop U^tber for luck sake. Arrah,
who tried you, Tim i"
" Oh, Lynch ! hungry as I am, I mual
■ketch this meeting, — "
Under the trees which skirted the entrance
to the village were several tents, or rather apo-
logies for tents, constructed by means of long
wattles bent to a semicircle, both ends of which
were stuck in the ground, and this frame-work
THE VILLAGE FAIR. £?
was covered over with patchwork quilts and
sheets. At one end stood the porter and
whisky barrelS) on whose heads were placed
in most tempting array, jugs and tumblers,
bread and butter^ salmon, and mutton pies.
Now I candidly confess — ^shocking as such
confession may be considered — ^that the steam
of a smoking cut of curdy salmon, and the smell
of a piping hot mutton pie did most sensibly
affect my olfactory nerves; and turning to
Mr. Lynch, I looked him full in the face, as
much as to say—" Will you venture in V*
' Not a word was spoken, but a silent nod of
the bead satisfied roe that Mr. Lynch was a
man of profound knowledge in the anatomy of
expression. We entered the tent, and^ seating
ourselves in a corner, contrived to appease the
stings and arrows of outrageous appetite.
It is certain that a man never feels so
comfortable, or so much at leisure to make his
observations on all around, as after a good
meal; and we therefore began to look about
us, and to note the company which occupied
the long table^ at one end of which we were
quietly sipping our whiskey punch. Towns-
28 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
people and country-people were mingled t<^e-
ther, some of whom had business at the fair,
and others who had no business, save and ex-
cepting what they considered the very pleasant
business of getting drunk. These were, for the
most part, men who had sworn niSt to drink
spirits in the town of Kiilarney, for a certain
period more or less as the case might be ; but
who, notwithstanding, thought it no harm to
swallow, as long as they were able, tumbler after
tumbler in the village of Cloghereen. They vvere
for this reason most constant in their atten-
dance at every fair ; as well as every funeral to
the neighbouring Abbey of Mucruss; on which
latter occasions, after devoutly burying the
dead, it was usual to repair to honest Paddy
Glissane's in order to drown their sorrow. And
certainly they were right, if we consider the
matter logically thus —
The oath was, not to drink in the town of
KillaVney — the village of Cloghereen is not the
town of Killarney — ergo, it is no infraction of
the oath, to drink and get drunk in the village
of Cloghereen. —
Such is the reasoning of Irbh ** affidavit
-. ,- -^ J »»
THE VILLAGE FAIR. 29
men," as they are called; to which respect-
able class belonged a shoemaker and a brogue-
maker, who sat near us at the long table I
have already mentioned.
They were hotly disputing the antiquity of
their respective callings — ^' Where's the use in
talking/' said the shoemaker, *' wasn't Moses
the roost ancient man in the world, when he
was at the burning bush tould to take off his
shoes ? — you see it wasn't his brogues, but his
shoes, he was tould to take off — and wasn't
there kings and princes belonging to us, and
isn't that the reason we have the crown for a
sign, and arn't we called Crispins from king
Crispin, as the ould song has it?" Here he
began to vociferate
^* Crispin and Crispanus, both princes of renown,
Resigned their crowns and kingdoms, and to the gentle
craft sat down.
Sing foil loll whack foil foil loll de ree.''
To all this the broguemaker replied, that
there was no hemp in the days of Moses — con-
sequently the shoes must have been sown with
a thong, and were therefore not shoes but
bro^es. And as for Crispin and Crispanus,
so LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
they might have been broguemakers as well as
any thing else; for surely the broguemakers
had a better right to be called the gentle craft
than the shoemakers. This the shoemaker
stoutly denied, and the broguemaker as sturdily
affirmed ; till at length they were on the point
of coming to blows, when it so chanced that
^' Paddy Connor the jobber " entered the teot.
Paddy most goodnaturedly interfered, and with
some difficulty succeeded in allaying the dispute.
From Mr. Lynch I learned that Paddy was
one of those jobbers who live by buying up
the small mountain cattle, driving them down
to the plains, and selling them at an advanced
price. Paddy however had two strings to his
bow ; for, in addition to his cattle jobbing, he
had a snug cabin and small farm at Lissinig-
geen, not far from Killarney. An amusing
fellow Paddy was, for he could tell old stories,
and the history of adventures which he had met
with when driving his cattle through the fair
province of Leinster, one always leading to the
other in the most interminable manner. To be
sure some people did say that Paddy was apt
to draw a long bow occasionally*
THE VILLAGE FAIR. 31
" Good morrow, Paddy," said Mr. Lynch,
« how are all at the farm ?"
" Why then very well, I thank yoor honour
barring what's bad of them.'^
" And who are they, Paddy ?•'
« Wisha, nothing at all, your honour, only
the cattle, and that's bad enough."
" Indeed! I thought you had the best cattle
in the country.'^
"O then, for the matter of that, I believe
the cattle are well enough, only there's no
such thing as getting a taste of butter from
the churning; so Tm thinking to give up the
farm, for I'll never have any luck on account
of meddling with charms, like a big fool as I
was."
" Charms, Paddy !"
'* Yes, sir, charms. Your honour must know
that myself and a little gossoon I had in service
with me, were returning home through the
county of Wicklow, after having sold the last
of a drove of shanafaughs in the famous city
of Dublin— Here, Mjr. Clancey, half a pint
of the best, if you please— We had travelled
hard all day, sir, thinking to reach the town
32 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
of Baltioglass before the night should set in ;
but, as luck would have it, we were benighted
on the road; so not liking to be out late,
for fear of a blast from the good people, 1
made up to a cabin on the road side, and axed
for lodgings.
" ' Wisha then, you shall, and welcome,'
said a decent elderly man, who was sitting into
the fire smoking his doodeen, and whom I
afterwards found was the parish schoolmaster.
Och, Uwas he was the lamed man! you
wouldnU meet with such another in a month
of Sundays ; for, ^ure, it was he was the fine
Latinist, and knew all about the good ou/d
times of Gadelus and Fuan Mac Cool ; and
then he had such pleasant stories about his
adventures when he was a youngster, how he
travelled half over the world, and sailed through
the Arches of Pelago, that you'd listen to him
for the length of a winter's night. But what
was far beyond all this, he knew more about
the good people than would be proper to
mention; for while we. were sitting talking by
the fire, who should come in but a little gos-
soon from a neighbouring farmer^ so he up
THE VILLAGE FAIR. 33
and tould the schoolmaster how his father
couldn't get any good of his churning, and
that some bad member had charmed away the
butter. ' I'll soon settle that/ said the school*
master; 'your father was always a good friend
of mine, and 'twould be a hard case if I wouldn't
do more than that to sarve him.' So with that
he takes his pen and ink, and wrote three little
words on a bit of paper. I was looking over
his shoulder all the time, and took good notice
of what he was writing. * Here,* says he to
the gossoon, * run, you rogue, give this to your
father, tell him to put it under the churn, and
ril go bail tie gets his butter again.' Well,
sir, when the morning came, I travelled on,
and thought no more about the charm, only
I believe I tould the boy if there was any good
in it, I could do it as well as the schoolmaster
himself. So, without further accident, we ar«.
rived safe at the ould ground, in the kingdom
of Kerry. I wasn't long at home, when the
boy left me and took on with one Jack Foulue
(a strong farmer that lives over Laun) ; shortly
after which, as I was. looking over some boys
that were sowing the praties for me, who
should I see come into the farm but Jack
VOL. II. D
34 LEGENDS OJP THE LAKES.
Foulue himself. He rode a t^ht cut of a
horse, aod led another by the bridle.
'< ' Good morrow, Paddy/ says lie. < Good
morrow, kindly Jack/ says I. ' Come here/
says he, ^ I want to q)ake to you.' So I
went into the nest field, and Jack, dismount,
ing, pulls a big bottle of the right stuff out of
his pocket, and sets, down by th^ side of the
ditch. ^ Sit down, Paddy/ says he, ' till we
take a drop of the crater this could morning ;
and, fakes, 'tis myself would want a drop to
keep me in heart, for, sure, 'tis Vm in a bad
way, unless you help me, Paddy.' * Vm sorry
for your trouble. Jack,' says I, * and, sure, if
it's in my power, you're safe enough, fow you
couldn't be better than I'd wish you. Jack.' So
down I sat (for I coulda't find it in my heart
to refuse him, besides, the liquor looked mighty
tempting). * Ma gra ma chree^P said he, * I
knew that well enough, and that's what brought
me to you, Paddy; but I'll tell you what's the
matter with me : you know I have as fine cows
as any in the county, but, for rnrtin, some one
has charmed away the butter; so that if we
* My darling of my heart.
THB VILLAGE FAIR. $5
were churning for ever, it would be to no pur-
pose; we did every thing in our power, we
put the gad about the churn, and the hot
coulter uiider it, but that was little good for
us; for besides that Peggy Camig was seerf
with a dead man's hand (which, you know,
would carry all the butter in the parish), Giles
H asset tould me that he saw a great hare
sucking the cows. So I just stepped down
to the fairyman for advice; he tould me he
couldn't do any thing for me, but if I would
get Paddy Conner of Lissiniggeen to give roe
a charm, I'd get my butter again. When I went
home I told what the fairyman said. < Sure
enough,' said a gossoon that^s in service with
me, ^ I was with the very man when he picked
it up from an ould schoolmaster in the county
Wicklow.' So I came oflF directly to you,
Paddy ; and sure you won't have the heart to
refuse me, and I in the pucker I am, with no
one to help me but yourself.'
« ^ That's what I can't do. Jack,' says I ;. * I
wouldn't meddle with charms for the world.
But, to make a long story short, sir, he made
mch a poor mouth, and softened me sawith^
36 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
the whiskey, that be persuaded me at last to
mount the horse and go home with him. When
we came to the house, we found the women
churning away as fast as could be; but if they
were churning from that day to this, the never
a taste of butter would they get : so I tuck a
bit of paper and wrote what I saw the school-
master write, and put it under the chum ; in
a moment the churn, and every vessel in the
house, was full of butter, so that they recovered
all they had lost, and a great deal more ; but
how it was brought is more than I can say, if
it wasp't the good people that did it. Well,
sir, home I went, thinking all the way Pd make
a fortune of the charm, but I was mightily out
in my reckoning, for I was hardly at home
when the woman asked me where I was ; so I
up and tould her all about the charm. < Oh,
you thief!' says she, * you've done a bad job
for yourself.' With that, she gives me a pol"
thogue* that sent me spinning into the milk
room.
'< < Look at that, yo^ villain!', says she — and,
* A thump.
THE VILLAGE FAIR. 3?
sure enough, all the milk and butter in the
place was turned ; the scent of it (saving your
honour's presence) would knock down a horse.
However^ I didn't mind it much, for, thinks I,
I can write another charm for myself, and so
I did, but it wouldn't do; and when I tould
Jack Foulue the story, and asked him for the
loan of the charm I wrote for him, the thief
of the wide world only laughed in my face,
and wouldn't so much as give me a sight of it.
* Do you take me for a fool, Paddy,' says he,
' to give you the charm, when, 'tis as plain as
a pikestaff, 'twas yourself that carried away
my butter?' But I'll be up to him the first
fair I meet him at, the ungrateful hound.
From that time to this, 1 hadn't a day's luck
with my cattle ; and when your honour axed
after all at home, "twas thinking I should be
obliged to give up the farm for a bad job I
was."
"Bad enough, Paddy," said I, " but what
was it you wrote on the paper?"
"Is it what I wrote you'd be after axing
about? There now, why I suppose your honour
wants to be as wise as myself, and"
38 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
*^ HurroOy here^s a Minehan, here^s a Do*
noghue/' resounded through the fair. This was
followed by the immediate clashing of sticks,
mingled with the wild shouts of the combatants.
In a moment the tent was emptied, and wq
among the rest ran out to take a view of the
fray, which did not promise to be very dan-
gerous to those engaged, as they were so
•thickly wedged together, that stick waved over
stick, and met with a world of noise and clatter;
but few received, or could possibly receive, a
single blow.
Presently the mounted police dashed up
and dispersed the combatants, while the ma^
gistrate, aided by a body of the foot police,
triumphantly seized on their shillelahs, and
occasionally comniitted a few pot-valiant mor-
tals to the safe custody of his myrmidons.
" Come, come. Lynch," said I, " for sober
men like you and myself this will never answer
— but here are our friends of the morning— i-
'just one drop' appears to have done their
business. I cannot resist a parting sketch, as
a companion for the meeting.''
THE VILLAGE FAIR,
Whilst I made the above outline, Mr. Lynch
stood close to my ear, humming with a mere
verbal alteration, Moore's words, to a Hun-
garian air, in the National Melodies.
" So warmly we met, and so fondly we parted.
That which w^ the sweeter, e'en I could not tell,
That first look of welcome Ati aunny eyes darted,
Or that roar of passion which bleaa'd out fiut>well ;
40 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
To meet was a Heaven, and to part thus another ;
Our joy and our sorrow seem*d rivals in bliss;
Oh, a pair of black eyes are not liker each other.
In smiles and in tears, than that moment to this.
" The first was like daybreak, new, sudden, delicious.
The dawn of a pleasure scarce kindled up yet ;
The last was that farewell of daylight, more precious.
More glowing and deep, as His nearer its set.
Our meeting, though happy, was tinged by a sorrow.
To think that such happiness could not remain.
While our parting, though sad, gave ahope that to-morrow
Would bring back the bless'd hour of meeting again.
>»
^' Who, after the accordance of these verses
by our national bard, with your illustrative
sketches, can doubt how truly you both have
copied nature ?''
I had no sooner entered the Inn, on ray
return from the Village Fair, than the waiter
addressed me with — " There's a letter, sir, by
the post for you."
^' A letter? from my mother I suppose —
my dear * Ma* — so it is I declare, and an
euclosiue too! — I have the best and kindest
mother in the world."
„j
41
CHAP. III.
THE STAG HUNT.
The first beams of the rising sun had just
crept in lines of brilliant light through the
crevices of my window shutter^ when I awoke
from a profound and dreamless sleep : with a
few yawns I succeeded in attaining a con-
sciousness of existence ; in other words, 1 was
wide awake, and sensible of some unusual stir
and bustle in the Inn. Listening for some
time to catch a stray word, which might dis-
cover the cause of this confusion, I at length
plainly distinguished the rough voice of Doolan
O'Donoghue in high dispute with the waiter.
^^ Thunder an' tear an' ouns," said he, << is
it to have his honour lose the stag hunt, and
be so lucky to have one, when it wasn't ex-
pected at all? and how should his honour
expect it when he wasn't here at the races'
week, when there's always sure to be a
couple of them ? but since his honour has the
luck to have a stag hunt, all as one as if it
was given out on purpose for him, I'll take
49> LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
care he shan't lose it ; so I say there is no use
in argiifyingy you must wake his honour^ and
tell him that Doolan is waiting to know if he'll
have his ould crew."
'^ I tell you I won't do no such thing/' said
the waiter ; ^' for didn't the gentleman bid me
not to wake him, because why ? he was mortal
tired after going up Mangerton/'
O, ho ! a stag hunt, thought I^ Doolan is in
the right, it would never do to lose a stag hunt.
So hastily jumping out of my bed^ I threw
open the shutters, and having partially dressed
myself, rung the bell, which immediately put
an end to the dispute, by bringing the waiter
to my door, whom I ordered to procure my
old boat and crew, and to have every thing in
readiness for the stag hunt. Having finished
my toilet, I hastened down to breakfast, in
order to be early in the field ; for, on looking
out, I perceived Killamey was already sending
forth its hundreds, all anxiously hurrying to
enjoy the sport. A stag hunt creates quite a
sensation in Killarney ; on such occasions the
town pours forth almost its whole population,
even many of the old women disdaining to be
left behind. It was all life apd animation;
THE STAC^ HUNT. 43
the whole place was in commotion with the
rattling of carriages and jaunting cars, crowded
with *^ beardies and brushes^' (so, in Killamey
phrase, are dandies and artists termed), lakers
and their ladies: and well corded to each
vehicle appeared huge baskets of provisions.
Blue-jacketed boatmen were seen running to
and fro, in all the spirit-stirring energy of
business; in fact.
It was the morning of a glorious day ;
At dawn tlie trackers of the deer were oat,
And mannM each pass above Glenlt's lone bay,
To keep the red deer down with fi*equent shout.
The merry town pour'd forth its giddy rout,
Down to the quay of Ross they rush amain —
«
And not only to the quay of Ross did they
rushy but seeing it was impossible to procure
boats for such a multitude, hundreds, rather
than lose the sport, determined to walk round
by the new line of road; and not a few set out
mounted on their own good steeds, while their
wives and daughters, crowding jingle and
jaunting car, passed swiftly by the more humble
cart, with its usual accompaniment of bed and
quilt, for the accommodation of less wealthy
or less aspiring folk.
44 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
The important business of breakfast de-
spatched, and having been joined bj Mr.
Lynch, we proceeded to mingle with the crowd
who were hurrying towards the place of em-
barkation, on the Island of Ross.
Arrived at Ross, we found a wide-spreading
fleet, of all sorts and sizes of boats, from the
eight-oared barge to the light skiff and paddled
canoe. The band of the Kerry militia occupied
a large boat, as this was a fete given in honour
of the accomplished Countess Kenmare, for
whom, and for ''John O^Connell" (so I was
informed), the fleet were then waiting; Mr.
O'Connell generally on such occasions being
commander in chief. In a few minutes his
six-oared barge was seen approaching; indeed
it would have been impossible to mistake it,
for the green flag of Ireland fluttered at its stem,
upon which might be discovered, embroidered
in large characters, erin go bragh. Then the
barge itself was green, ornamented with a stripe
of virgin white and a running wreath of sham^
rocks, with which also the oars were decorated
from top to bottom.
The portly form of Mr. O'Connell himself,
as he stood most majestically steering his
THE STAG HUNT. 45
patriotic barge, was soon recognised. He was
greeted^ as may be supposed, with a mighty
shout, after which he issued a general order
that no bos|t should go ahead of the Earl of
Kenniare^s, which just then made its appear*
ance, and immediately proceeded to lead on
the fleet.
Lo, off they push with shout and music's swell,
A £aiTy fleet upon an island sea.
Wide flashed the water as the light oars fell,
Answered the boatman^s song, the buoyant glee
Of hearts full set on mirth and revelry ;
And many a streamer gay is floating there,
With rainbow colours and embroidery,
Wide waving on the gently breathing air,
That seemed in love to fan a scene so bright and fair.
As we glided by the wild and rocky shores
of Ross, several sail-boats started from the
nooks and comers where they had harboured,
and, unfurling their white wings to the wind,
flew swiftly on before the breeze, adding greatly
to the beauty and efiect of the scene ; the waves
sparkling before their prows, their sails now
glancing in the sun, and now beautifully con-
trasting their snowy hue with the darkness aad
majesty of some frowning rock or hill.
Thus did thq little fleet pass gaily on till
/
46 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
we came to the entrance of the river between
Brickeen and Glen^ ; here the sail.boats were
abandoned, and here commenced struggle and
confusion, boat thwarting boat in the windings
of the river; now an oar entangled 'mid the
weeds, and now a bo^t run aground until we
gained Dinis' Pool, where the company were
landed on the GlensL bank, while the boats
were being hauled up the rapids under the old
Weir Bridge.
It was an animated sight when standing on
the bridge to view the efforts of the boatmen
dragging their respective barges against the
stream; and then to behold the gay groups,
each after the other, emerging from the covert
of roek and wood, and approaching that part
of the river where they were to re-embark, and
where boat after boat, as it surmounted the
rapids, took in its company and proceeded up
the river.*— The whole deet being assembled
under the Eagle's Nest, the hills manned to
keep the deer down to the river, and the ^^
hounds and huntsmen up in the hollow be*
tween Glen^ and the Eagle's Nest, where the
deer lay which they had tracked for some
days before, silence reigned around, every one
THE STAG HUNT. 47
anxiously waiting the signal shot. Those who
had walked or rode, now covered every rock
and height pn the banks of the riveri and many
even had forsaken their boats in order to have
a better view from the shore.
Behold the congregated rocks, whose groups^
like idands, stand along the river^s side,
Are cover'd o*er with gay expectant troops
Of youths, and dainty dames in flaunting pride.
But beside these there were many who joined
business with pleasure. There was the fruit
girl with her basket of apples ; and as it is
not in the nature of things that at an Irish
merry-making the all important whiskey should
be forgotten, many women might be seen
handing the ^' cruiskeen lawn ^* among the
crowd, while the huxster, with her sieve full
of dillisk, bread, and biscuits, was all as ready
to appease the cravings of hunger. Sundry
old ladies were there, who had been prudent
enough to bring their own stores, and they
might be seen in many a snug spot drawing
forth the home*baked loaf and pocket bottle,
glancing in the sun, to regale both themselves
aod cronies. And now all is ready.
48 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
Hark to the signal shot ! the mountain*s roar !
The burst of that brave pack I the frequent shout
The watchers on the hills begin to pour^
As bursts the red deer from the wild woods oat !
Lo 1 down he dashes through that giddy rout.
With glancing eye and antlers' branchy pride,
While &st the big round tears begin to spout ;
One moment stands he by that river's side,
Looks, lingering, up the hills, then plunges in the tide.
After the first burst, every eye was strained
to get a view of the stag. " There he b" —
" No"-r"" Whisht, ye'll see him in a minute^*
— '^ Hark) that's O'SulIivan's cry ringing through
the hills*' — '' There Geoffry Lynch makes his
appearance'* — " And now John O'ConnelPs
huntsman/' were the various exclamations from
every side.
Sometimes the stag makes his escape up the
mountains, leading hound and hunter a long
and weary chase. On this occasion, however,
matters were better managed; for the stag,
after several vain attempts to ascend, made his
appearance, and ran along the river^s side for
nearly a mile, in full view of the boats and
those on the shore, till finding himself too
closely pressed by the hounds, he plunged into
the river. Then came the struggle, the chase,
THE STAG HUNT. 49
and the race, for the honour of taking him^
which nvas at length done by Mr. O^Connell.
A handkerchief was bonnd round the pdor
animal's eyes, his legs tied, and thus secured,
he was lifted into the boat. The boat then
put in to the shore, in order to allow every one
a peep at the stag ; to obtain which^ the fleet
gathered round, and all hurried towards one
point of the bank, where soon stood nobility
and mobility, huntsman and peasant, indis-
criminately grouped together.
Close to Mr. O'Connell's barge was that
of the Earl Kenmare, into which stepped the
round, rosy, and Reverend Lord Brandon, at
the same time, apparently, addressing some
courtly compliments to the Lady Kenmare —
then there was the good Lord Headley with his
famous piper and my worthy friend Gandsey.
The Herberts of Cahemane, with the union
jack, in despite of the admiralty regulation,
floating at their stern. And around these,
and other first rates, crowded the small fry>
anxious to catch the looks and the words of
their superiors. Amidst the confused murmur
of this strange assembly a distinguished orator
arose to present Lady Kenmare with the tip
VOL. II. E
50 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
of the stag's ear, which he did, accompanyiDg
the action with a speech^ that fully entitled
him to his popular appellative of *\ the silver
toogued."
" I feel," said he, " I feel"— and there was
a general shout — ^' this to be the proudest —
most glorious moment of my existence; indeed
words can never sufficiently express the in-
tense depth of my happiness in thus having
the honour to present the wild monarch of the
hilis to the beautiful, all-accomplished, most
lovely, and superlative lady of our lakes."
Here the speaker placed his right hand on his
left breast, waved a white cambric handkerchief,
looked around for applause, and then, with a
graceful bow, resumed his speech : ** Lady,
I lay this trophy at thy feet, but the monarch
himself will be set at liberty. Irishmen know
too well the bitterness of slavery to enslave
even an animal, and feel the galling chains of
political adamant too strongly not to weep when
even a silken cord restrains the mountain deer.
But Irishmen, I trust, through the exertions of
the great, the mighty O'Connell, will yet be as
free as the stag which bounds over ^heir hills
of fame, where green robed bards have sung.
THE STAG HUNT. 51
and yellow vested warriors liave trodden. Lady,
keep this trophy in remembrance of old Erin —
Erin, my country, beautiful even in the torrent
of her tears; and as often as you look upon it,
O! lady, give a sigh for the wrongs of Ireland's
seven millions of degraded, persecuted Catho-
lics ; and pray for the downfall of their sworn
enemies, the bloody Orangemen, that Erin may
be, as she ought to be,
" The first flower of the earth, the first gem of the sea."
At the conclusion of this speech there was
a universal shout of applause; the very hills
rang again with the names and praise of
O'Connell, Mahony, and Kenmare. The fleet
then began to drop down the river, as the stag
was to be released in Gleni Bay, from whence
they. were to proceed to Innisfallen, where the
evening was to be closed with feast and dance.
A lively scene ensued on the arrival of the
fleet at the old Weir Bridge. Dinis and the
shores were covered with people, waiting to
behold the boats shoot the bridge; and, as we
were nearly the first to perform this feat, we
had an opportunity of seeing the others descend.
Down came boat after boat; some striking
5£ LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
against the rocks, and neariy overset; others
steering clear of all obstructions, among which
number was my friend Plunket, who, being
coxswain to the Earl Kenmare, had been
obliged to leave me, in order to pilot his lord-
ship. I had however, no cause to coimplaiD^ so
well did honest Tim Lyne supply Plunket's
place. As each boat descended, the crew gave
a shout, which was answered from the shores;
and then all proceeded on to GlenaL Bay, where
being ranged at each side of Mr. O'ConnelPs
barge, the stag was freed.
The gallant stag is ta'en, the chase is o'er,
The sturdy rowers urge the flyiug boat —
Within Glenn's lone fairy bay, once more
That joyous fleet doth in its glory float,
Ab calm as skiff upon some castle*s moat :
And .there they set the antler'd monarch free.
With shout, and loud halloo, and bugle note ;
Proudly he stems the wave, right glad to see
His native wilds again, and be at liberty.
Shortly after freeing the stag, the whole fleet
put into Innisfallen, with colours flying, and
the band playing. Upon landing, the difierent
parties dispersed about the island, where they
formed themselves in little groups, to partake
of the collations they had brought with them.
, jjwii n ■ ■■
THE STAG HUNT. 53
Dinner wer^ some perambulated the walks;
others seated on the shore enjoyed the scenery,
and listened to the distant notes of music;
while by far the greater part amused them-
selves with dancing on the green turf near the
banqueting-bouse, where the Kerry band were
stationed; and not a few of the young men dis-
played their skill in a rowing match around
the island.
" Glanced many a light caique along the foam,
Danced on the shore the daughters of the land/'
Upon this scene the moon arose broad and
bright.
'< That^s fortunate for you/* said Mr. Lynch ;
^ for it would be a sad thing to go away^ with-
out a moonlight row on the lake; suppose 1
order the men to pull us to Glensi Bay, and
from thence back to Ross."
Departing for Gleni, we glided gently across
the moonlit waters. If I was writing a novel,
here would be the place for pictorial sentiment;
but as I am not, and as Mr. Weld has given a
wondrous description of Gleni as seen by
mooii%ht, I shall merely say that Gledk, always
54 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES,
romantic and beautiful ^ is rendered doubly so
by moonlight and music.
Oh then, at such an hoar to sail aloDg
The silvered waters by some mountain's side,
'Whose trees shall rustle overhead a song
Bassed by the murmur of the chafing tide.
By the breeze brought and echo multiplied.
Oh iheu, at such an hour amid such sounds,
To sail with her, your own — ^your gentle bride —
But truce to such dreams.
On our return homewards, Thady Begly
commenced whistling the exquisite old melody
of Aiken a roon. Although no air is more
familiar to me, in my mood of mind at the
instant I felt charmed with its wild simplicity;
the sound of every note went directly to my
heart ; till Doolan suddenly checked my enjoy-
ment by placing his hand on Begly's mouth.
" Why then/' said he, " don't be after going
to whistle that diabolical tune, for sure and
sartin there's something diabolical in it ; and
'twill be many a long day till you whistle it
again, whep you hear the whole story about it.
''You must know then, that Father Phill
Clancey happened one day to be in Killamey
THE STAG HUNT. 55
about a little business of his owD| and was kept
by one thing or another^ till the night came on ;
a desperate dark night it was ; so^ as there was
no use in attempting to go home, he was obliged
to content himself with a snug lodging/ and a
smoking tumbler of whiskey punch. Weil, just
as he was mixing the second tumbler, word was
brought him, that Moll Barry of Claunteens
was at the last gasp, and that she couldn't leave
the world in pace, if Father Phill didn't give
her the blessed sacrament. Now, Father Phill
didn't like to leave his warm tumbler of punch
and snug room, and small blame to him for
that ; but if it was a Turk, how could he refuse
him, and he at the last gasp ? let alone Moll
Barry, who was a relation of his own, and a
good Christian. So seeing there was no help
for it, up he gets on his bit of a pony, and
away he gallops along the Castle Island road,
as fast as the dark would let him. It wasn't
long till he passed the park gate, and the little
bridge over. the Dinah, and, to make a long
story short, he got on well enough till he came
to the oiild fort at Knockeen Duve — a lone,
some place it is, and they say the good people
live in it ; and sure enough there's a sort of a
•- V
56 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
cave covered over Wnh smooth flags in the
middle of it. But he that as it may, 'tis sartm
that when Father Pbill came to the fort, he
heard the most beatUifullest music in the world,
so that he couldn% for the life of him, h^elp
standing to listen ; well, all at once, the music
stopped, and two of the finest voices that was
^.ver heard before or since, begun to tune up
Jlileen a roon in prime style. If Father Phill
was pleased with the music, he was much better
pleased with the song ; so, after listening for
sooie time, he thought he'd just ride into the
fort, and see who it was that was singing so
beautiful entirely. Well, fakes if he did, the
moment he got into the fort what should he
see bjut two great mastiffs of bulldogs, sitting
overright one another, and singing for the bare
life ; and no sooner did his reverence make the
siign of the cross, than away they flew in a
flame.of fire, — and Father Phill, clapping spurs
to his pony, galloped on as fast as he could.
It wasn't long ^ill he came to the house at
Claunteens ; but he was the day after tlie bkt
for poor Moll Barry was dead and gone; and
then he knew well enough that it was l3m devil
himself (the I^ord presarve us !), that stopped
THE STAG HI3NT. 5*1
bim 9t the aiuld fort, to prevent his giving the
poor woman the Uessed sacrament. So you
see ita no wonder that I don't like to hear a
Christian whistling the devil's tune. For 'tis
as true a story, as that you are sitting there ;
and didn't I.hear it word for word out of Father
Phill's own mouth? and sure I wouldn't gato
belie him, now that he's dead and gone, for 'tis
not iny way you see."
As Doolan concluded his story, we had
reached Ross Quay, where we found numbers,
who like ourselves bad just landed, and were
hastening home to Kiliamey. Indeed, the
rattle of jingles and coaches was to the full as
great as it had been in the morning ; and we,
not to be behind-hand with the rest, contributed
our share, by mounting one of Gorham's vehi-
cles, and jingling it away to the town ; Spit
lane all the time playing on his bugle, with
might and main.
^* You had better stop, Spillane,^' said Mr.
Lynch, as we approached Kiliarney; *^you
ksiow, we have some very anti-musical magis-
trates."
<^ I believe,'' replied Spillane, <' they'll let
nitt»cians alone again, as long as they Hve;
58 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
for wasn't there Mr. Dumass^ more strength
to his elbow, and more wind in his bellows f —
and didn't Moriarty for the same reason, pro-
secute Blake, the captain of the Peelers, and
make him pay the piper, with a vengeance t it
was a dear song to him, any how/^
Scarcely had we entered the town, when
our ears were assailed by a most tremendous
uproar. — '^Here's a Barry" — "Here's a
Leary *' — " Five pounds for a Barry's head " —
** Ten pounds for a Leary " — " Here's up-
street for Barry " — " Here's down-street for a
Leary " — resounded through the town.
" Spillane, what's all this uproar about ? the
stag-hunt whiskey seems to be stirring among
the good people of Killarney."
" O sir, it's only a bit of a skirmish between
up-street and down-street, and the faction of
the Barrys and Learys ; it's nothing to what
they used to have long ago, when one part of
the town fought against the other, with old
scythes and swords and stones ; and the women
used to come behind a man, with a parcel of
stones in an old stocking, and knock him as dead
as a herring." Presently there came a cry of
« The Peelers *'— « The Peelers "—and im-
THE STAG HUNT. 59
mediately three or four green-coated^ black-
belted horsemen, with a fiery magistrate at their
head, dashed into the thick of the crowd ; and
after some time, succeeded in putting an end
to the fray.
*' Why then," said a gigantic countryman,
who stood near me; ** why then, isn't it a
mortal shame for Mr. Galway to drive among
the people at that rate ? how does he know,
but he'd kill the poor craters, and they as thick
as midges ? 'tis long till Mr. Cashell would do
the likes, any how."
*^ And who is this Mr. Cashell ?" said I, to
Spillane. '^ He's a good gentleman, and a
magistrate, sir ; and has a beautiful good lady
to his wife ; her own name is Wilson ; she came
from Scotland, and has a brother that is a
great writer, and a fine poet."
^^ Oh, then, she is sister to the ingenious
Professor of that name."
Once more, I enter Gorham's Hotel, where
a comfortable bed, apd sound sleep, soon ren-
dered me alike insensible to the fatigues or
pleasures of the day.
60 LEGENDS OP THE LAKES.
CHAP. IV.
A SUNDAY IN KILLARNEY.
" Djno dong ! ding dong /*' " Thwe's no getting
a comfortable nap this nioming, tbose ocm*
founding bells make such a noise ; hark, there
they gOy ding dong! ding dong! I wonder
what's the reason of it ? Oh, now I recollect, it
is Sundaj morning; and certainly if I am to
judge by the jingling of bells, the good people
of Killamey must be very devout. — Well, as
I cannot sleep, I will get up.''
«
In a short time, I was dressed, down stairs,
and in the street. Cp^owds upon crowds were
hurrying to first mass; and, joining the throng, I
soon found myself at the entrance of the chapel
in the New Street, but beyond this there was
no possibility of proceeding, as the chapel was
crowded, and the very yard fuU of people, most
devoutly kneeling, and endeavouring to catch
the sound of the priest's voice. Here was the
state of blockade presented by the chapel
door —
1
^ p • « ••** 4
A SUNDAT IN KILLASNEY.
Mj curiosity gratified, I returned to Got-
ham's, where I was agreeably surprised by the
appearance of Mr. Lynch, who had been wait-
ing my return.
" I see you have been out early," said he,
" what do you mean to do with yourself to-
day f"
" I mean to witness a Sunday in Killamey ;
having already beheld no bad specimen of the
devotion of its inhabitants."
" TTien I promise you," said Mr. Lyach,
" fiiU employment, notwithstanding that it is
the sabbath day. So soon as you are done
breakfast, we will lake a turn as far as Wood-
lawn, after which we can go to church, and
6£ LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
then stroll through the town, if you please, and
make our observations/'
*' Agreed," said I, and when I had finished
breakfast, we set off on our walk. Scarcely
had we reached the double row of lime-trees
on the Flesk road, when we perceived a number
of shock-headed youths enjoying a game at
goal (the cricket of Ireland), in an adjoining
field. Their amusement however, was soon
interrupted by the appearance of Father Fitz-
maurice, which was immediately perceived by
a tall boy, with a hurley in his hand, who had
evidently been posted as a watch upon the move-
ments of his reverence.
^' Run, ye vagabonds, the devil burn ye, run,
— run for your lives, ye thieves of the world,
run. — Here's Father Fitz coming down tbe
road, and 'tis to blazes he'll send you all next
Sunday, if ye aren't out of sight in a jiffy —
run, by% run," roared he; and in an instant
they all scampered ofi^, before the priest could
arrive at the field of action, and recognise the
transgressors. But a rude sketch may help to
convey the scene more perfectly to the reader.
A SUNDAY IN KII.LABNEY.
A pleasant walk it is from the towD, to the
river Flesk, and quite the mall, witb the first
rates, and second rates, and all the rales and
ranks of people. On the present occasion,
instead of going straight on to the bridge, as
most people do, Mr. Lynch turned off to the
left, and followed the Woodlawn road ; think-
ing it, I suppose, more agreeable to get under
64 LEGENDS OP THE LAKES*
the shade of the old oak trees, which giire
name to the place, than to remain exposed to
the sun. The weather had, within a few days,
become estremelj hot, so hot, indeed, that a
dearth of provisions was in consequence appre-
hended. No sooner did the blazing sun appear
above the horizon, than the dew vanished from
the fainting herbage, and the whole country be-
gan to look brown and scorched ; the cattle ran
fiercely about the meadows, or stood deep in
lake, river, or stagnant pool, with a melancholy
low, lashing away the flies with their long tails;
the farmers were walking pictures of misery,
certainly no extraordinary occurrence ; but for
Kerry farmers to be made unhappy by the want
of rain was indeed an uncommon event.
Amid this state of affairs, as Mr. Lynch and
myself were enjoying the luxurious shade of
the oak wood a decent elderly man was ac-
costed by that gentleman, with <^ Good mor-
row, Daniel."
'' Ohy the top of the morning to your ho«
nour," said he.
«< Were you taking a dip, Daniel ?"
^' Not iu the least, sir," he replied, ^' I was
pnly taking a look at a few ridges of [H^ties I
A SUNDAY IN KILLARNET. 65
have below tliere, God help them/' and in
order to soft the action to the word — though I
presume he had never read a line of Hamlet's
advice to the players; with the ejaculation,
^ God help tfiem !" he raised his eyes most
piteously to heaven, at the same time elevating
his bands, as in act of supplication.
** *Ti8 hot weather, indeed," said Mr. Lynch,
in answer to his look and action ; '^ 'tis hot
weather, indeed, and I am beginmng to fear
the consequences will be very injurious to the
country."
''Who knows? God is good!" said he,
'^ God is good !'' at the same time striking his
left breast with his right hand ! '^ God is good,
glory be to his name ! did you never hear how
He made three ears of com to grow out of a
griddle-cake i"
^* No, indeed, Daniel, I did not," replied
Mr. Lynch.
'* Well then, I'll tell you, sir;'' and he began
by two or three hems to prepare for his story.
*^ Your honour must know, that a long time
ago, there fell out just such another summer
as this ; the whole country was burned up with
the beat, and the people were all crying out
F
66 tSGBNDS or Tȣ LAKES.
for rain^ for they thought surely they'd have.no
hsHTVest at all at all, and that they'd be ail
starved to death. Well^ sir, it happened at
this .very time, that the holy Bridget, bles4ed.be
her name ! came travelling through the country
with a Cad an* Skiv^, and a poor child upon
her back. So the weather being hot,, she just
made bold to ax for shelter in the house of a
strong farmer that lived hard by. She wasn^t
long sitting in the kitchen, when who should
come in but the farmer himself. ^ 'Tis terrible
weather,' says be, ^ and we'll be all ruined if
we don't water the crops ; so do you run, Pad-
deen,' says he to his little gossoouy ^ and col-
lect the boys, and in die mean time the women
can be making cakes for them.' So away >v^ent
the gossooriy and the women began to make
dough for the cakes. Now, the ,holy Bridget
was sitting by all the time, so she up and tould
them, it was better for them to pray, and put
their trust in God, than to be making such a
fooster about watering the crops, for God
could set all to rights in a moment. ' What
do you know about the matter?' says the
farmer, ^ that's a likely story, indeed, you want
to come over us with, just as if the crops would
A SUNDAY IN KILLARNEY. 67
grow without water/ The words were hardly
out of his mouth, when the child poked his
head from under the blessed Bridget's cloak,
^ I'll show you what. God can do/ says he,
^ if you'll only put a bit of that dough on the
griddle.' So they did as the child desired
them ; but no sooner did the bit of dough on
the griddle begin to bake, than three of the
most beautiful stalks of com, with fine full
ears, grew out of the middle of it. So the
people were all surprised ; and when they
turned round, both Saint Bridget and the child
were gone, no on^ could tell how or where.
Then they knew it was a miracle sent from
God, and didn't attempt to water the crops,
but said their prayers, and put their trust in
Him. And there never was, nor ever will be,
such a plentiful harvest as there was that very
year. So you see," continued Daniel, '' so you
see it's a sin to grumble, when God can set all
to rights in a minute, and make our crops grow
without rain as well as make the corn grow
out of the griddle cake."
** That's a wonderful story ; where did you
get it, Daniel ?"
'< Why, then," said he, " I read it many a
68 LEGENDS OF THE LAK£9«
long day ago ia the Scripturs, or the Lives of
the SaiDts, or «ome Mich boo4 ; and, aure^ I
suppose it's all one : but at any rate we ought
to pat our tiHist in God."
Ding-^ing — ding-^ding — ding. — " There's
the hurry bell," exclaimed Mr. Lynch; *' w«
must make the best of our way to church.
Good bye, Daniel."
" Good bye — and good luck to your honour,"
said Daniel, as we left him at double quick
time.
The church is directly opposite Gorham's
Hotel, and though not a very splendid edifice,
has a look of neatness from its iron railings,
little shrubbery in front, and steeple, which is
a wooden structure covered with slate. At the
gate we found two or three constables or
Peelers doing the duty of beadles, and ready to
prevent any disturbance (a necessary precaution)
about the church during time of service. On
our entrance we beheld a tolerably extensive
congregation ; but this was owing to the influx
of strangers, as there are not many protestants
in or about Killamey. The interior of the
thurch, though neat, was very plain, possessing
but one small gallery, where sat the little
""^F'
A SUNDAY IN KILLABNEY.
69
^hoir; its front decorated witb tiie arm8 of
England, supported by the lion and the uni-
corn. Along the walls were certain monumental
inscriptions ; among which might be seen those
to the memory of Earls of Kenmare; for though
a R<Maan catholic family, the church contained
Ibeir mortal remains. In the window, over
the communion table, was a small transpa*
rency, representing, as I was told by the pew*
opener, the Last Supper, at which, if it be
so, two of the disciples only are represented.
The congregation appeared clad in their
^ Sunday's best ;^' each scrutinizing his or her
neighbour, for the laudable purpose of after-
church criticism, and morning-visit conversa-
tion. While in all the pride of place, if I may
be forgiven applying the phrase to churchmen,
stood the Rev. Arthur Hyde, with his clerical
sub, the Rev. Mr. Bland in the reading deric,
nor must I forget to mention the best possible
of all clerks, Mr. Thomas Ruddle.
The church service passed as usual, without
any thing particular, excejMs that the clerk read
a great deal better than the clergymen, who,
however, did not perform badly. Mr. Bland
then ascended the pulpit, and delivered a
^mtm
m^
70 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES*
moderate, and at the same time an eloquent
discourse, in which no sectarian acidity was
subtilely mingled with the sound doctrines of
the church of England, or the pure charity of
christian principles.
On issuing from the church we fouod an
immense crowd assembled to see, what io
Killarney was esteemed a wonder, a protestani
Lady Kenmare coming out of church ! Mixing
with this crowd, I could not avoid overhearing
some of the remarks — ^' Why then, isn't she a
fine figure of a woman ?' said one.
^^ Oh, but isn't it a pity to see her coming
out of a church, where a Lady Kenmare never
went before, since the world was a world?'*
said another.
" Och," said a third, " she'll soon be taught
the right way, and come to the true church ;
for didn't my lord take her to Rome to see
the pope ? And doesn't she go to visit the
ladies at the convint^ and hear the childer the
right catechism ? And doesn't the priest stand
by, and be explaining the maning of it all to
her ladyship f"
•' That's true for you," was the reply; ''and>
sure,^ if she was at last mass to-day, she'd have
•f *>!< ' J
A SUNDAY IN KILLARNEY. 71
hard a beautiful fine sarmintf from Bishop
Eagan, that would have convarted her entirely,
so it would. For didn't he tell how the catho-
lics was the only true church ? and how there
wasn't much differ between them and the rale
protestantsf for, sure, there is a great differ
between the rale protestants and such metho"
dises and new lights as little Stephen, that
preaches in Wat Agar's barn. Little Stephen
in a rale honest man any how, and not to be
compared to that new-light, dandy preacher,
Mr. Mac Crea ; they say he's got a widow with
a big ybr^m. Egad, it isn't a bad trade^ for
these prachers are mighty handy at snapping
up widows ; but, as I was saying, he has little
business coming here to pervart the people,
and make ill will amongst the neighbours. I
suppose he thinks, because he has percarted
that unfortunate Mary Mineban, that he'll have
the whole place to himself — ^but he's out in his
reekning; and, any way, it was a mortal shame
to put so many lies in the paper, about her
being kilt^ and murdered, and batey when it
was no such thing at all ; for didn't the magis-
trates sit upon it, and find it out all a pack of
79 LBGSND^ OF THB LAKES.
lies? but, whisht, there's some of the metkodises^
staning near, and they'll be after hearing u^J*
This last exclamation direcled our attention
towards two young Baen who were standing- ai
no great distance : the one, a tall, thin, awk waxd
youth, with a downy cheek* and a considerable
stoop ; the other, a crabbed little fellow, with
a cunning phiz, surmoanted by a glazed military
cap.
Mr. Lynch immediately accosted them with,
'^ How are you, Richard? how do you do, Mua i
I perceive we ha¥e had Lady Kenmare at church
to-day."
<^ Ay, that we had," said the little oae*
^^ She's true blue; they can't turn her, wilh'
all their endeavours/'
*\l was a somewhat alarmed though," said
the tall youth, *^ for she staid away from churcb
thre^ Sundays."
'< Your account is settled at all events,
Richard," said Mr. Lynch, ^^ after the evidence
you gave, on the investigation into l^t affair
of Mary Minebtan's/'
• '^ 1 care nothing about them/' wa» the reply,
^^ I lold the truth; besides, all the ipagistrateii
* -jtfc ii ^- <
A SUNDAY IN KILLABNBT* 73
were papists^ and what could be expected from
tlieiii> where a prieat was concerned?''
'^ I' hope you don't intend to insinuate that
ao many honourable gentleman were partial;
take care what you are about, Richard, for I
am sure such an accusation would be repelled
with the indignation it deserves; besides^ there
certainly were misrepresentationa."
'' It's no matter what I intend, I have my
owa opinion on that subject ; and I am quite
cer'takit if things go on as they are^ — if govern-
ment doesn't look to it in time, there'll be
desperate work — ay, desperate work."
'^ Indeed/' said Mr. Lynch, wi^ an incre-
dulous smile, <' I hope, and I rather think not;
we must make allowances for party spirit, for
those bickerings in polkies and religion which
have too long prevailed in this unfortunate
country. Every enlightened mind must see that
aueh a state of things is equally foreign to com*
mon* sense^ true patriotism, and true religion.''
<^ Indeed, my dear Mr.. Lynch," said the
little personage, '^ you do not knotw them, or
}[ou would not say so; indeed they're a shocking
murdering set, I assure you, J am quite con-
vinced of it,"
74 LfiGCMDS OF TXat X^KSS.
Just as the little man had concluded this
sweeping sentence, there arose a great stir and
confusion in the street, which we soon found
was occasioned by the churchwardens, who were*
proceeding rather violently in their endeavours
to suppress sabbath-breaking; but this was not
to be wondered at, when we found the church-
wardens themselves were mere boys, into whose
hands, certainly, such a' power should not have
been entrusted. The affair was no sooner over
than the little personage with the cap resumed
the conversation, by asking Mr. Lynch if he
had got his book back from the priest ?
^^ What book ?^^ inquired that gentleman.
^' The Christian Magazine, to be sure, which
you lent to young , and which Father
Fitz took away from him, because he didn't
choose him to read such damnable books."
" Oh, nonsense,'* replied Mr. Lynch, " I see
what you are about; the priest, I dare say, will
return it when he has sufficiently amused him-
self by its perusal — Good bye, gentlemen/'
^' Just stop a minute," said the tall youth,
^^ I want to know whether you'll go to hear
Mr. Mac Crea to-night."
" I can't," said Mr. Lynch,
t^i.T'SS^
A SUNDAY IN KILUIRNEY. 75^
" To be sure you won't," said the little
personage ; '* you'll come and bear the new
metbodist preacher; you don't hold Mr. Mac
Crea's calvinist doctrines, Vm sure, that some
are born to be saved, and all the rest to be
damned."
** That's the Scripture doctrine, however,"
said the tall youth, <' and not the metbodist
doctrine, that people can be saved by their own
works, which is every bit as bad as popery ; I
tell you, sir, good works and self-righteousness
are as dirty rags in the sight of God."
*' Oh, ho," whispered Mr. Lynch, " it is
high time for us to be off" — and away we
went, leaving the two disputants in high argu-
ment about election and predestination.
76 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
CHAP. y.
FUNERALS AND WAKES.
Quitting Killaraej, I walked with Mr. Lynch
towards his cottage. On our way thither we
were accosted by an old woman, who solicited
for the honour of God and the glory of the
Virgin, a trifle towards burying her.
*' Why, Molly," said Mr. Lynch, « you
ought to have been buried six months since.''
« What, buried alive ?'' said I.
" No — but dead and buried," replied Mr.
Lynch, ^^ at least, all the preparations for the
funeral were, to my knowledge, made last
Christmas; but, perhaps," he continued, ad-
dressing the mendicant, '' you have not yet
determined as to whether it is to be at Mucruss
or Aghadoe.'*
^' Oh, then, long life to your good honour
entirely," ejaculated the old woman, ^' and
may every day be full of blessings, and luck^
and grace be with you, and the widow^s blessing
be upon you wherever you go.*'
n^NEHALS AND yfJJLBS. 77
^ Well, MoJly," «aid Mr, Lynch, « which
18 it, MucruBS or Aghadoe you are to be buried
atf"
*^ *Tis, it is the cruel hard question for a
poor cratur like me to answer; for sure there^s
my husband lies in Aghadoe, God be good to
him, and my father, and my six brothers. Lord
rest their sowky at Mucruss. And sure then it
would be only proper for me to spend a little
time with my father and my brothers, but then
'tis a deal more natural for me to go to my
poor husband."
'< My good woman,'' said I, ^' it appears to
me a matter of very little consequence what
becomes of our body after death.^'
<' Och, 'tis easy for quality like your honour
to say so," she answered, << but 'tis I that
know» well enough, if 'twas buried I was at
Mucruss along with my own people, His niy
husband would be coming looking after me
every night. And indeed, a cushla^ 'tis only
last Saturday week that I saw my husband
through my sleep, and his legs were all cut
from the knees down, for the want of the
shoes and stockings. So the little trifle I had
to make a comfortable wake for myself, I
78 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
coiildnH find it in my heart to keep, and poor
Paddy in want of the shoes and stockings, so
I bought a pair for him ; and I saw him since
he got diem, and now he^s quite comfortable/^
.^ Whs^ bay a pair of shoes for a dead
man ! I never heard of soch a thii^*'
'' May be not; why, yoor honour, ^twas not
myself, yoo see, bought them, for sure there
If ould be no use in that, but Hwas the priest,
long life to him, took the money/*
*< And now that you have done so much for
Paddy,** said Mr. Lynch, scarcely able to
suppress a smile, '^ I think you may as well
make up your mind to be buried with him at
Aghadoe/'
<< *Tis Ae more natural I should be laid with
my husband than with any one else,*' said the
old woman after a pause, '^ and 1*11 go to him,
though I dread, if 'tis buried I am at Aghadoe,
my six brothers will be coming there to see
me and quarreling with poor Paddy, for they
never. liked him. And 'tis my brothers that
were fine boys, six foot high, and 'tis they had
sticks ail the year round seasoning up, the
chimney, and were terrible fellows at handling
them — so they wereJ'
^FUNERALS AND WAKES. 79
. ^' Here is something towards jour wake,
Molly," said I, ^^ although I think you had
much bett^ buy a handkerchief for your head,
or any thing else that would make you com-
fortable while alive. In my opinion this grand
wake is only throwing so much. money away,
from which it is impossible you can have any
enjoyment."
<* Oh, a gragcde, and 'tis on the knees of
my heart I thank. you; and may what youVe
giyen the poor ould lonesome widow be re-
turned to you a thousand times. 'Tis I that
know what to do with the neighbours when
they come .to my wake — but ''tis only your own
honour. I'll tell. You see, when they're all
there from far and near, as to, be sure they
will, in the night, and I within in my coffin,
I'll just get Norah, my daughter, to tie a string
to my big toe, and put it out through a hole in
the wall. Well, when they're all gathered to-
gether, my dear, let Norah go out and give it
a good pull, and then up will go my leg in
the coffin, and then, I'll, engage, she'll soon
get rid of them,, and there'll be an end to the
expense for candles and. whiskey and tobaky —
for they'll. all think 'tis come to life I am;
and there^ I'll have a decent wake that will
00 I.SOB1IDS OF THS UkKES.
be remembeied as long as any wake in the
conntry* Then, yoor honour, let me be buried
die day after that, because, you know, I must
be for the first night drawing water — but my
poor husband wiU help me to bring the water;
and if I want to be buried at Mncruss with
my brothers, they^d diink more of their wives^
as *tis only right and proper they shoukl.'*
The ktter part of this speech, indeed all
that the old woman had said, would have been
unintelligible to me, was I not aware that the
Irish peasantry consider the state after death
to be a mataial one, where long journeys have
to be performed and certadn duties fulfilled*
I have little to say about the dinner which
Mr« Lynch gave me at Garden Cottage. It
was. an excellent homely meal, comfortably
served and seasoned by the true sauce piquant
of Ireland — a hearty welcome.
'* How infinitely to be preferred,'' said I^
** are these cuts of hrcMled salmon, this |^in
ymt of salted mutton^ and these well cooked
potatoes, and verdant vegetables, to the highly
seasoned dishes t have eaten even from the
classic Cuisine of Ude.''
" Ude/* interrupted Mr. Lynch^ " have I
not heard that name before ?''
rUNEBALS AND WAKES. 81
" Very probably you have/' said I; " Ude's
fame is boundless as is his talent. Does not
LondoQ resound from St. James's to Ireland's
favoured colonyi St. Giles's, with the celebrity
of this Professor of the culinary art i Are not
his bon mots the fortune of the magazines and
newspapers f In short, English literature boasts
a Ude and a Rogers, while we have our Nor-
bury."
<' But," said Mr. Lynch, '' I rather think I
have seen the Professor as you cbH him-^what
sort of a man is he r"
'^ There is a portrait which you may see
prised to his immortal tome on French
cookery, but, between ourselves, that is by no
means flattering to the Professor. Ude is far
from being the black muzzled do^ there repre-
seoted — ^his countenance is frank and fat, and
there is an air of pensive enthusiasm about it,,
which reminds one of bis unfortunate master,
Louis XVL Ude boasts of having beeti ad-
mitted to die confidence of no less than eight
sovereigns."
" Yes," said Mr. Lynch, wilh a peculiar
expression, his countenance rather indicative
of a Kolaod for an Oliver, " it is^— it most be.
VOL. II. G
to I fc^MMM— I
82 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
— I can guess now who the mysterious stranger
was that late one eveniog last autumn arrived
at Gorham*8^ and created such a hubbub in the
house, sacreing every dish placed before him
— kicking the waiter, assaulting the cook with
her own spit, dressing propria manu a strange
dish with game and ham and herbs and sauces,
speechifying in half French, half Elnglish, to a
mob of people — Gorham and all his inmates
-r-abusing Irish cookery, to which he attributed
the barbarous state of the country, lecturing
them on the noble science, and, finally, disap-
pearing no one knew how."
'^ Aut Ude — ^aut diabolus, no question,^' said
I ; ^\ but this conversation is unsuitable to the
evening."
Over a moderate glass our discourse now
became what artists term more in keeping. I
could not refrain from making some observa-
tions on the various scenes of the morning —
the chapel — the church — and what left a still
deeper impression than either, the singular
mendicant we had encountered.
" There is something very strange," said I,
^' in that poor old woman's notions of a future
state, which probably arise from the doctrine
FUNEBALS AND WAKES. . 83
or purgatorj; anil then her plan for an eco-
nomical wake — I wish I had sketched the
hag, to add to my Tuneral collections, aa she
really was not an unpicturesque figure,"
" Funeral collections:" repeated Mr, Lynch,
" what do you meat) by funeral collections?'*
'< I can soon explain myself — Sketches illus-
trative of funerals and wakes in Ireland, which
have always appeared to me peculiar and ro-
mantic. Here is my sketch book — this was
made the other evening in Mucruss — a mother
and a daughter over the grave of a lost child
and sister.
And here — here is the widow soliciting alms
64 LEGBNDS OF THE LAKES.
on the road <ide, to enable her to give her
husband Christian burial."
" Oh, here is the funeral procession itself,"
said Mr. Lynch, turning over the leaf of my
sketch book. " The keeners wailing over and
beside the coflSn, which is borne on a herse,
or rather a cart with a triumphal canopy, — the
pole-bearers io advance, and the long pro-
cesstou trailing through the mountains.
FUNUALS AND WAKES.
" It is quite correct," coatinued Mr. Ljnch ;
"I have myself seen a funeral procession ex-
teod nearly three miles-'— perhaps you may like
to have an account of a child's wake, which I
wrote immediately after the occurrence. — I
found it amongst the papers I have been
turning over in search of materials for your
Guide Book; and I was on the point of
Dinging it into the fire this morning. Tliere
it is on the chimney-piece."
*' Read— read," said I.
".A hem." — " It was with a feeling of
86 LEGENDS OF THE LAK£S.
cootent and pleasure, that on the Christmas
eve of 18^6 I gazed around nij cottage kit>
chen, and saw that it was duly decked with
holly ; the dark green leaves and red berries
mingling fantastically with the bright tin ves>
sels which hung upon the white walls.
^' I confess that I am partial to old customs —
I have even no objection to an old superstition,
provided it be harmless. I did not, therefore,
quarrel with the block that was blazing on the
kitchen hearth, nor object to the enormous
candle lit in order to bring in the joyous an-
niversary of Christmas.
^^ Scarcely, was the evening circle formed
around the fire, when I was startled by a
loud wailing. The Irish funeral cry is at all
times a wild and melancholy sound, but at this
moment of festivity^ the contrast made it ap-
pear more than usually sad ; and as it mingled
fitfully with the wind that moaned without, it
occasionally assumed an unearthly cadence, that
might seem to a fanciful mind, the wail of
some wandering spirit.
*' The Lord presarve us !" cried Debby the
maid, ^' the luord presarve us ! its the Banshee
I wonder who's to go now."
■WWII ■ ^1 w
FUNEBALS AND WAKES« 87
" Psha ! don't be foolish," said I ; " I will
soon find out what occasions this noise. So
saying, I walked into the hall and put on my
hat. At once every voice was raised to dis-
suade me from attempting so hazardous an
enterprise, but all in vain; I was obstinately
bent upon proceeding, and amid warning looks,
and prognosticating nods, I took my departure.
^^ The night was dark, so dark, indeed, that
the pathway from my cottage was hardly to
be discerned, and as I pursued the direction
from which the cry seemed to proceed, I was
obliged to keep close to the road wall. I had
not advanced many yards, when the voice of
sorrow died away, and no other sound was to
be heard, save the fitful breath of the blast
as it whistled drearily through the leafless
branches of some old trees which overhung the
road. I am not superstitious, and yet, I con-
fess that I did feel certain sensations, which
of course reason, if I had been able to reason
at the moment, would have checked; it was
therefore with something of pleasure, that I
reached the cabin of a poor man named Sul-
livan. As I approached the door, I heard a
low moan from within, and immediately con-
86 LEGENDS OF 7VE LAKES.
cloded that th6 ullagone or death crj, i^'liich
occasioned tne to saliy forth, proceeded from
thence. But when I raised die latch, and
looked about the interior of the cabin, what
words can express the misery that met my
view !
'^ Sullivan's house judged, from its outward
appearance, might be deemed a more comfort-
able dwelJing than what usually falls to the lot
of an Irish peasant ; for it had a slate roof,
and two windows without the usual accom^
paniment of some straw, or an old bat to
supply the place of the broken glass ; but ao «
sooner did I enter, than every idea of comfort
vanished. There was the high roof without
any intervening loft; the cold and damp
earthen floor broken into a hundred heights
and hollows: the whole length of the house
without any division to render it less dreary ;
the door through whose crevices the wintry
gale entered at will ; the black and smoky
walls ; and a spark of fire almost extinguished
by the darkness of the huge vent in which it
glimmered, and wbich scarcely afforded the
id^a of warmth. A few rash-bottom^d cbair9|
a small table, with a wretched beditead, and a
MBOIfffn
FUN£RALS AND WAKES. 89
woEse bed, placed, for the sake of wanntb,
close to the beartb, were the oolj fiimiture to
be seen id this cheerless dwelling. The table
stood at the foot of the bed, and on it laj the
corpse of a little boy about four years old ;
his daiic hair sleeked over his marble brow,
and his snowy lids sending their long fringes
over his calm and palid cheeks. On one side
sat the mother, with a look of anguish, and a
low moan, rocking her body to and fro. On
the other side a little girl had clambered up,
and was endeavouring to open her brother's
leaden lids. Two young girls, the sisters of
the deceased, sat upon the bedstead ; while the
unfortunate fisither, with clasped hands and a
look of patient endurance, bent over the com-
fortless hearth.
'' The body of the corpse was covered with
a white sheet, borrowed for the occasion from
some richer neighbour ; on its feet was placed
a large plate of tobacco, and a candle was
burning at each side. This was all the pre-
paration they had been able to make for the
wake, and this in itself was a sufficient proof
of their poverty ; as the people on such occa-
sions seldom spare any expense within their
90 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
power. The first thing which struck me on
entering this house of mourning, was the ex-
treme emptiness of the place; and this ap-
peared the more extraordinary, as the peasantry
think it meritorious to sit up with the dead,
and usually on such occasions assemble in
great numbers; for ' to be spent well with^
and to have ^ a good berrin ' are matters of
great importance to the lower orders of the
Irish.
'' Upon inquiry, I found this desertion pro*
ceeded from the festival of Christmas — no one
being willing to go from*home on such an
evening. ' And sure we can't blame them/
said the poor man, * for it's only what we'd do
ourselves ; but I expect them about nine or ten
o'clock, and then they'll sit with us till the bell
rings for morning's mass." At the time spe-
cified, the company dropped in by degrees, till
at length the house was full. The men took
their places in silence, but some of the women
occasionally walked over to the corpse and
raised the funeral cry. Smoking and conver*
sation served to pass away the time, — ^the merits
of different keeners were discussed, and many
a tale was told of ghosts and banshees, fairies
J^iA.
FUNERALS AND WAKES. 91
and fetches. One which I happen to reoiem*
ber, I shall write, though not in the precise
words of the narrator.
** Tom Coghlan one evening returned to his
house, expecting to find the fire blazing, the
potatoes boiling, his wife smiling, and his
children as merry as grigs. And without doubt
these things are a great comfort to a poor man;
but it wasn't Tom's luck to find matters as he
expected ; for there was no fire, and his wife
was scolding, and the children were all crying
from hunger. F'oor Tom was quite dumbfoun-
dered to find matters going on so badly; for
though there were potatoes enough in the
house, there wasn't so much as a brosna to
boil them with. What was to be done i After
considering for some time^ he bethought him-
self of the great furze bushes which grew in
the old fort on the top of Knockanes, and
snatching up a billhook away he went. Before
he reached the top of the hill, the sun had
gone down, and the moon had risen above the
eastern hills ; wide and vast was the prospect
disclosed by her wavering, watery light; for
on the one hand might be seen the Bay of
g$ LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
Tralee with ks full sparkling tide, from v^hose
verge uprose Slieve Misb, Cahir-CoQ-righy
and that vast chain of mountains extending to
the west, while the towns of Blennerville and
Tralee slept dim-discovered in the valley
beneath ; on the other band, lay the bare and
barren sandhills, the wide-extending common
of Ardfert, and the broad*s weeping strand
which skirted the billowy bay of Ballyheigb.
And far to the west, the mighty Atlantic
rolled its waste of waters unbounded and un^
shackled, save where, to the right and left, the
misty forms of Brandon Hill and Kerry Head,
like the horns of a vast crescent, shot out far
into the restless deep.
*^ Such was the prospect which lay before the
unobservant eye of Toni Coghlan, who saw
nothing but the old fort, which superstition
had taught him to consider as an airy and a
fearful place ; the breeze which faintly rustled
amid the bushes was to him a sound of terror,
and the distant murmur of the deep, booming
through the silence of the night, struck his
spirit with a mysterious and indefinable awe.
Conquering his fear, however, as he approached
^ —
FUNEBALS AND WAKES. QS
ibe fort, and remembering that his Ghildren
^ere as yet without their supper, he raised bis
ar&i in act ta feU one of the large furze bushes
which grew on the embankment, when its
descent was suddenly arrested by the sound of
a small shrill voice. The startled workman let
the billhook drop from his grasp, as looking up
he beheld — perched upon a furze bush — a little
old man, not more than a foot and a half high,
with a face nearly the colour of a tawny
mushroom ; his little sparkling eyes, twinkled
like Kerry stones in the dark, and illumined
his distorted visage, which was surmoiinted by
a bng red cap, something in the shape of an
extinguisher; his body was small and bore no
proportion to his limbs which were unusually
long. Such was the extraordinary being who
interrupted Tom Coghlan at his work, and
whom r shall distinguish by the name of
Liitle Redcap.
^ ^ O ho !' said the littk Redcap^, * is that
what you'd be after, Mister Tommy Coghlan ?
What did me or mine ever do to you, that you
should come cutting down our bushes V
"* Why then nothing at all, your honour,*
94 LEGENDS OF THE LAKESv
said Tom/recovering a little froin bis fright^
< why then nothing at ell, your honour, only
the poor little childer were crying with the
hunger, and I thought Td just make bould to
cut a bush or two to bile the praties with, for
we hadn't so much as a brosna in the house.*
^' * You mustn't cut down the bushe^ Tom/
said the little Redcap, ^ but as you are an
honest man Fll buy them from you, though
I've a better right to them than you have ;
but the quiet way is the best always, so if you
take my advice, you'll carry this quern home
with you, and let the bushes alone.' ' Quern,
indeed !' said Tom, at the same time giving a
look of astonishment ; for it was so small that
he might have put it with all ease into his
breeches pocket; 'quern, indeed! and what
good will that bit of a quern do me i sure it
wont bile the praties for the grawls /' * What
good will it do you?' said the little Redcap,
' ril tell you what good it will do you — it will
make you and your family as strong and as fat
as so many stall-fed bullocks ; and if it won't
bile the praties, it will do a great deal better,
for you have only to turn it about, and it will
FUNilaALS AND WAKES. 93
give you the greatest plenty of elegant meal ;
but, if ever you sell any of it, that moment the
quern will lose its virtue.'
^' 'It's a bargain/ said Tom, 'so give me
the quern, and you're heartily welcome to the
bushes.'
" * There it is for you, Tom,' said the little
Redcap, at the same time throwing it down to
him ; ' there it is for you, and much good may
it do you, but remember you are not to sell
the meal on .any accounts'
'' * Let me alone for that,' said Tom, as he
made the best of his way home, where his wife
was trying to comfort the children, and won-
dering all the time what in the world could
keep Tom out so long; but when she saw him
return without so much as a kippen to boil the
potatoes with, her wrath, which had been re<^
pressed for the last half hour, burst out like
Beamish and Crawford's bottled piorter when
the cork is drawn. ^ Wisha then !* said she,
' isn't this a poor case, to say you'd come in
widout any thing to bile the praties, and I
breaking my heart this two hours trying to
keep the childer quiet. But I suppose you
were at the shebeen-house, instead of minding
96 LEGENDS OP THE LAKES.
me or mine — If I had to travel about with a
cad an^ skiver an' a bag oo my back, I won't
put up wid you any longer, yoa nasty, drunken,
gomal of a baste,^ Here s)ie paused for \i^nt
of breath, and Tom, taking the opportunity to
put in a word, said ' Arrah, then can't you be
as^, Judy I mind you indeed, may be I wrasn't
minding you why. See that now, for a thing
I brought you;' continued Tom, at the same
time pulling the quern out of his pocket
** * O you ounshaugh of a gomal F roared
Judy, ^ what good are those two little stones,
— will they feed the grawls "i tell me that, you
natural V
<< « Feed the graiwh! fakes an' 'tis they that
will," said Tom. So he told her all about the
little quern, and how he got it from the red-
capped fairy*
" * We'll try it directly,' said Judy ; and
they pulled the big table into the middle of
the floor, and commenced grinding away with
the quern. Before long the most beautiful
meal began to come from it, aiid in a short
time they had every vessel in the house full.
Judy was quite delighted, and the children
managed as well as they could for that night
FUNERALS AND WAKES. 97
by eating plenty of the raw meak For a long
time things went on very well, the quern giving
them food in abundance; till they all grew as
fat and sleek as coach-horses. Unfortunately
one day, Judy^, being at a great loss for a little
money, was tempted to take a few pecks of
the meal, and sell it in the town of Tralee;
but if she did, sorry enough she was for it ;
for from that day out, the quern lost all its
'irtue, and if Tom was grinding for ever, it
wouldnU give them a taste of meal. Tom
couldn't for the life of him find out the reason,
for Judy was afraid to tell him about her selling
the meal; so putting his billhook under his
arm, away he went to the old fort, determined
io be revenged on little Redcap„ by cutting
down his bushes.
*^ Scarcely had he commenced the work,
when the little Redcap made his appearance :
mighty angry he was that Tom should come
cutting his bushes, alter having made a fair
bargain with him ; but Tom, nothing daunted,
was, as stiff as he was stout, and told him that
^ he was a deceitful little ugly vagabond, to
give him a quern that wasn't worth a thraneen^
VOL. lu u
98 . LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
and that if he didii^t give him a good one for
it^ he'd cut down every bush in the fbrt.^
^^ ' What a buUamskiagh you are, Mister
Tom/ said the little Redcap, ^ but you'd better
be easy and let the bushes alone, or may be
80 well you'd pay for it ; deceive you, indeed !
didn't I tell you the quern would lose its
power, if you sold any of the meal ?*
" * And sure* I didn't either,' said Tonu
' Well, it's all one for that,' answered the little
Redcap, * for if you didn't^ your wife did ; and
as to giving you another quern, it's out of the
question, for we have but one in the fort you
see, and a hard battle we fought, to get it from
another party of the good people. But Til
tell you what I'll do with you, Tom ; let the
bushes alone, and I'll make a doctor of you.'
" * A doctor, indeed ! may be it's a fool
you're making of me/ said Tom. But 'twas
no such thing, for the little Redcap gave Tom
Coghlan some charm or pther, that he never
failed to kill or to cure with whoever he took
in hands, just like other doctors; and Tom
became a great man, and made up a long
purse, and gave good laming to his poor
l^UNERALS AND WAKES. 99
cbildren that he left crying at home after him
the night he first met the fairy in the old fort
And one of them he made a priest of — and
another a grand biitter-merchant in Blarney
lane — and the youngest son being ever and
always a well spoken boy, he made him a
counsellor — and his two daughters are well
married — and Tom's wife is dead, and he's a
happy man as can be/'
LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN.
This is Monday morning j and now I have
breakfasted, what's to be done f I'll see what
the Gorham advises.
" Waiter, if Mr. Gorham is not particularly
engaged, I should be glad to speak to him."
" He's just gone to look after the eagles in
the yard, sir; but I'll go and tell him."
" No — stop, I'll go myself — I should like
much to have a look at his pets — I remember
Doolan mentioned them to me."
In the stable yard an hostler directed me to
where these noble birds were ; but I was mis-
informed as to Mr. Gorham's movements, for
he was not there. However, I had sufficient
employment for nearly an hour in making
some studies from them in my sketch book —
Here are two of the most characteristic.
THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN. 101
On my return I found Mr. Lynch lolling
upon the sofa in my room. The usual greet-
ings over, he anticipated my question of wfaat^s
to be done ? by commencing as follows :— ^^ You
are now/' said he, *^ pretty well acquainted with
the kingdom of Kerry, and I suppose you intend
shortly to take your departure ; nevertheless,
if not restricted by time, as you are a curious
little body, there are one or two rambles which
I wish to lead you ; and though they may not
be perhaps so interesting as those which you
have already enjoyed, I think it right, consi-
dering your intended Guide Book, that you
should see every thing, good and bad, as the
Irish phrase runs, before you depart for the
chalky cliffs of happy England. For instance,
you have not seen the Park, in which there is
a very pretty glen — there's the wild country too
beyond the park, with the little Lake of Kill-
bran, about which I have a story — the Glen of
Ahahunnig — the Druidical Circle — and Labig
Owen, or Owen's Bed, at Philadown, in
Glanflesk.''
" All which i am determined to see," said
I, " not being restricted to time, or now as to
money, thanks to my good mother's remit-
tance."
hb. &I *ii ifcaaUMi i*<fc I II I ' - "W - ■ ^ -/-'*-- 1 V* • ,g^ • , •m,mmt\um-mt ' 'imiim nm, rii
102 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES*
** Well theoy that being the case, I think
we had better proceed at once."
*^ With all my heart — ^horses shall be at the
door directly/'
'' Horses ! what do yon want horses for ?
Noy no^ you must make use of your legs to-
day; and, certainly, I shall have no great
opinion of Dr. Green's vapour bath, if you
cannot venture on a day's walk."
'* Be it as you will,'' said I, ^ but not a
word against the vapour bath." And away we
went along the Main street, till we reached its
extremity ; then turning to the right, we entered
upon the Castle Island road.
^' What deplorable cabins!" I exclaimed, as
we passed a row of the most miserable dwell-
ings I had ever beheld, and which stood a
disgrace to Killamey.
" I wonder at you," said Mr. Lynch, with
a smile, <^ to speak thus of Mrs. Falvey's
freeholds. I assure you the fair owner is very
partial to this property, having, I understand,
rejected several very good offers made to her
by Lord Kenmare, if she would only let these
deplorable cabins, as you call them, be pulled
down. But no, it would never do to destroy
so many comfortable habitations; besides, what
ilii-M'
THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN. 103
trould become of Killarney, if the inmates of
these hovels were obliged to emigrate; alas,
if that were the case, there would be a lament-*
able want of beggars in the town ; for here
dwell (hose kind hearted people who were the
first to hail your arrival, and who will anxiously
crowd to witness your departure."
Leaving Mrs. Falvey's freeholds and the
hospital behind, we in a short time reached
the entrance to Lord Kenmare's park, distant
about half a mile from Killarney. The park
is situated ou one of those hills which rise be-
hind the town, and is agreeably broken. It is
richly wooded with ancient oaks; but its chief
attraction is a romantic glen, through which
rushes the Dinah, now cascading over dark
rocky ledges, now brawling along its pebbly
bed^ and not unfrequently dimpling into little
pools; while the woods at each side overhang,
and frequently overarch the stream, which in
some places appears to gush from their very
branches. At each side of the stream there is
a commodious walk; sometimes running close
to the water, sometimes rising high above it.
And from the bridge there is an agreeable
vieW; for on looking down you behold the
104 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
stream brawling along till completely lost
amid the woods. I was informed that this
spot was formerly a place much resorted to
by the towns-people ; at that time there were
rustic chairs and pavilions scattered through
the glen, which was frequented by evening
parties, who would here sip their tea and keep
up the merry dance, to the astonishment of the
startled deer, even until the moon rose upon
their revels. But the place is now neglected;
the walks are overgrown with grass and weeds,
the seats, the pavilion, and even a wooden
bridge, which once served for ornament and
use, have disappeared — nay, the very deer have
been banished, and the park is now undergoing
a course of tillage.
From the glen, which is in the northern part
of the park, we walked to the hill on the op-
posite side, at the summit of which there is
a gate, dividing Mr. Cronin's portion of the
park from that kept by Lord Kenmare in his
own hands. We then strolled leisurely towards
Mr. Cronin's, or, as it is usually called, the
Park house.
Passing out of the park by the back gate,
near Mr. Cronin^s house, we found ourselves
THE LAKE OF KILLBBAN. . 105
on the old road leading to Kanturk, and along
this we traveiredy in order to reach the Lake
of Kill bran. There was nothing attractive in
the country on either side, which consisted of
coarsis stony farms, that seemed to promise but
a poor recompense to the hand of industry.
After walking about a mile we turned off to
the left, into a by-road, at a place where I
remarked a rude stone-capped well, called the
Spa of TuUig. From thence, proceeding about
half a mile further, we passed a little wooded
glen, or rather hollow, on the left hand side of
the road, and shortly after reached the Lake
of Killbran. This is a small lake, situated on
a green height, from whence there is a wild
prospect of a broken country, interspersed with
bogs and valleys, till bounded to the north by
the mountains, in the neighbourhood of Tralee.
The land was remarkably barren and destitute
of wood, except here and there a few trees
scattered about the cabins of the peasantry, or
where the fir plantations of Gleun a Heelah
and Farm Lodge appeared — but these were as
specks, compared with the extent of the land-
scape, and could therefore little affect the
general character of barrenness.
106 . LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.'
*' And is this," said I, " what you have
brought me to see? Truly, I think weliave
had a most unprofitable journey."
'*Come, that's not fair," returned Mr. Lynch,
'^ I told you that you must ■ take the good and
the bad together; it was not for the sake of the
prospect I brought you here, but merely because
it is the scene of a legend with which I am
acquainted. I believe that every lake in Ireland
has some story attached to it; but the first
notice I received of this was that there lived a
big worm, as big as a colt, in Loch Bran.
Having little else to do, I made a journey
hither to inquire into the matter, and accosting
the first countryman I met, asked him if there
had not been a ^ big worm ' seen in the lake.
" * Oh then, sure enough there is one,' said
he, ' as big as a couU^ with a great bushy tail,
that comes up out of the water sometimes ; by
the same token that Jerry Finigan was near
being kUt by him; for he went for his coult
in the gray of the morning, and was just putting
the bridle on the big worm, when he broke
away and ran into the lake. And of another
time he was near killing a man, a cousin of my
own — one Moriarty, who was ploughing near
1
THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN. 107
the lake — a qvare lake it is any how, and
couldn^t have been a lake always^ for when
the water is low you may see the remains of
an ould ditch running across the bottom of it ;
and there was a big piece of timber found in
it, with an auger hole bored through it; so I
suppose there was people living there, till the
flood came and drownded them/
'^ Having made inquiries of this kind in
various quarters, I at length succeeded in ob-
taining the best information which can bo
procured relative to the Lake of Killbran, and
which I here beg leave to present you with.
** In the good old times there existed in
Ireland a race of mortals, who, under the de-
nomination of ' poor scholars,' used to travel
from parish to parish, and county to county,
in order to increase their stock of knowledge.
These poor scholars were, for the most part,
men of from twenty to five-and- twenty years
of age; and as they were also agreeable, social
fellows, who during their peregrinations had
acquired a fund of anecdote, could tell a good
story, and never refused to lend a helping hand
in any business that was going forward, th^y
108 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
were received with a caed mille faultha* at
every farmer's bouse throughout the country,
where they were welcome to stay as long as
they pleased.
'^ It happened one evening in the month of
July^ that one of these peripatetics, a stout,
platter-faced mortal^ by name Darby O'Reily
(the very same it was who invented the famous
stone soup), made his appearance at the house
of the widow Fleming, who dwelt not far from
the old church of Kilcummin. Now, the
widow Fleming, who since her husband's death
had taken the entire management of a large
farm upon herself, was very glad to see Darby
O'Reily for a variety of reasons. In the first
place, it was the hay harvest, and Darby would
lend a helping hand, and keep the men in good
humour at their work with his merry stories;
then he could teach the children great ABC
of an evening, and then she was a lone woman,
and Darby was a pleasant companion, and an
old acquaintance moreover. Whether this last
idea was of deeper root than the others, is
* A hundred thousand welcomes.
THE LAKE OF KILLBRAK. 109
not for me to say, but certain it is that
Darby received on the present occasion more
than a common welcome from the widow
Fleming. After having partaken of the good
cheer which the widow set before him in the
greatest profusion, and having renewed his
acquaintance with the inmates of the house,
even to Darby the dog that was called after
him, and the cat ; he proposed to step down
to the parish jighouse, just to shuffle the brogue
with hia old sweethearts, hear the news, and
see how the neighbours were getting on, for it
was near a twelvemonth since he had been in
that part of the country. Now, whether it
was the mention of sweethearts that disagreed
with the widow, or whatever else might have
been the cause, it is certain that she was much
against Darby's going to the jighouse; but
seeing that she could not with any decency or
effect gainsay his intentions, she was obliged
to assent, at the same time, however, warning
him to be back early, and not to keep up the
house. Away he went to the jighouse, where
he found.himself quite at home, and as welcome
as the flowers of May. Fine fun he had of
itj, for the pipes played merrily up, while he
1 10 LEGEISDS OF THE Xi^KES.
footed it bravely with the prettiest girls and
best moneen jiggers io all the Barony. To
speak the truth, he wasn't a bad hand at a jig
himself, for there were few could equal him in
the ' heel and toe' step, and then he put such
life and spirit into his motions, that he made
the house ring again with his grinding and the
merry snap of his fingers. But your dancing
is droughty work, — ^at least Darby O'Reily
was of that opinion, although there was no
fear of his dying for the want of a drop to
drink ; as he had news for the old, and stories
for the young, till at last it was Darby here,
and Darby there, and who but Darby f The
soul of merriment, and the prince of good
fellows, every one striving who should be the
first to treat him. Darby soon became as com^
fortable as any gentleman could wish to be.
'^ But while Darby was drinking, and danc-
ing, and making merry, he neVer remembered
it was time to go home, or bestowed a single
thought upon the widow Fleming's good advice,
which was very ungrateful of him, considering
the civil way she had behaved to him, and that
she was even then herself sitting up waiting
his return.
THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN. 1 1 1
<< The longest day will have an end, and the
greatest merriment must at length give way to
repose^ as Darby found to his sorrow, when
the party broke up, and he had to stagger
away as well as he could. He was so much
'in the wind ' that he didn't well know which
way he was going, and as bad luck would have
it| he went every way but the right ; for instead
of keeping the straight road, by way of making
a short cut, he turned off through the fields,
and after wandering about for as good as an
hour, where should he find himself but in the
old fort at Claunteens. A bad place it is to
get into at the dead hour of the night, when
the good people are going their rounds, and
making merry, as Darby soon found ; for
though it was easy enough to get into the fort,
he couldn't get out again for the life of him ;
it even appeared to him as if the fort had in-
creased its dimensions to a boundless extent.
He wandered up and down and round about
for a long time without ever being able to get
out, and was obliged at last to content himself
where he was, so down he sat on a stone.
^ There's small fun sitting on a coidd stone in
the moonshine,' muttered Darby ; ' and sure
1 12 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
it's a pitiful case to^be bewitched by the fairies
— the good people, I mean, and stuck fast in
the middle of an ould fort; but there's no help
for it, so what can't be cured must be endured/
No sooner had he come to this very wise con-
clusion, than he heard a most tremendous
hammering under the very stone he was sitting
on.
" ' O Darby P cried he, * what'll become of
you now ?'
*' Plucking up his courage, he boldly took a
peep beneath the stone, when, what should he
see, but a Cluricaune sitting under a projecting
ledge of what had been his seat, and hammering
as hard as he could at the heel of an old shoe.
Although Darby was very much afraid of the
fairies, he wasn't a bit in dread of the Cluri-
caune; for they say, if you catch a Cluricaune
and keep him fast, hell show you where his
purse is hid, and make a rich man of you. But
it wasn't thinking of purses Darby was, for
he'd rather be out of the fort than to get all
the purses in the world. So when he saw the
Cluricaune, it came into his head that may.
be he'd lend him a helping hand, for tliey say
the little fellow is fond of a drop himself.
THE LAKE OF K1LLBRAK. 1 IS
' Success to youy my boy, you are a good
faatid at a shoe anyhow/ said Darby, addressing
himself to the Cluricaune.
" * Ah ! Darby my jolly buck, is that you ?*
said the Cluricaune, getting up from his work,
and looking him full in the face.
'* * The very same, at your honour^s sarvicCf
answered Darby.
« < What brought you here ?' said the Cluri*
caune, ,f I'm thinking you've got yourself into
a bit of a scrape.'
^* * Fakes then, your honour, I'm thinking
the very same,' said Darby, *if your honour
doesn't lend me a helping hand.' So he told
him how he stopped at the widow Fleming's,
bow he went down to the jighouse, and being
a litt]e overtaken in liquor, how he wandered
through the fields until he found himself in the
old fort, and wasn't able to make his way out
again.
• **•' You're in a bad case, Darby,' said the
Cluricaune, ^ for the good people will be here
directly, and if they find you before them,
Darby, they'll play the puck with you.'
" * Oh, murder!' cried Darby, * I throw my
life upon the heel of your honour's shoe.^
VOL, II. I
I 14 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
*' * Well,' said the Cluricaune * you're a
rollocking lad as ever tipped a can, and it's a
pity any harm should ever come of taking a
drop of good drink. So give me your hand,
and I'll save you. And as you never did any
hurt to me or mine, VH <io more than that
for you, Darby. Here, take this charm, and
you are made for ever, my man.'
" * And v(hat's the nathur of it ?' said
parby, at the same time putting it into his
right hand breeches pocket, and buttoning it
up tight.
" 'I'll tell you that,* said the Cluricaune;
^ if you only pin it to the petticoat of the first
woman in the land, she'll follow you the wide
world over ; and that's no bad thing for a poor
scholar.' So saying, the Cluricaune took him
out of the fort, put him on the straight road,
and wishing him success with the charm, burst
into a fit of laughter and disappeared.
" * Good riddance of you any how,— ^but 'tis ,
an ugly laugh you have with you,' said Darby,
as he made the best qf his way to the widow
Fleming^s, who was iq no great humour ; and
no wonder, to he kept up so late by such a
drunken bktherum as Darby. Now, when h«
THE LAKE OF KILLBHAN. 115
saw the widow in a bit of a fret, ^ Ho ! by my
sowl,^ said he, ^ I've the cure in, my breeches
pocket' So with that he outs with the charm,
and pinned it slyly to the widow's gown. ^ I\e
charmed her now/ says Darby, ' if there's any
truth in that little chap of a Cluricaune.' And
certainly there was soon a wonderful change in
the widow, who, from, being as glum as a misty
morning, became as. soft as- buttep. So very
careful was she of Darby, that, late as it was,
she ma()e down a good fire, lest he should be
cold after the night, brought him a supper of
the best the house could afford, and had as
much cooram about him as if he was lord
of the land. Darby grinned with delight at
the success of his charm; but be was soon
made to grin at the wrong side of his mouth,
for. the widow in the midst* of her love chanced
to discover the charm that was pinned to the
tail of her gown.^
" ' What'a tliis you've pinned to my gown,
you rogue you?' said she, at the same. time
flinging it into the fire.
" * Botheration/ roared Paddy, ' I'm settled
for now ;' and no wonder he should roar, for
the charm took instant effect.^ and the "fire.
1 16 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES:
jumped holus bolus after Darby, who made
for the door, and away he went as fast as his
legs could carry him. But if he did, the fire
came after him, roaring and blazing, as if there
were a thousand tar-barrels in the middle of it.
Away be ran for the bare life, across the coun-
try, over hedge and ditch, for as good as two
miles; neither stopping nor staying till he
came to a deep well on a high farm, between
Tullig and Gleun a Heelah, when who should
he meet but his old friend the Cluricaune.
' Arrah Darby !' says the little fellow, ^ you
seem to be in a wonderful hurry; where are
you going so fast, man, that you wouldn't stop ,
to spake to an old acquaintance V
^* * Bad luck to you, you deceitful hop of
my thumb/ said Darby ; ' for sure it's all along
of you and your charm that I'm iu the neat
way I am this blessed night.'
^' * And that's my thanks for saving you
from the good people,' says the Cluricaune.
^ Very well. Mister Darby, there's the fire at
your heels, and who's to save you now ?'
** * O! thunder alive ! sure you wouldn't be
after sarving Darby that way.'
« ' Well,' said the Cluricaune, ' I'll take
THE LAKE OF KILLBRAN; 11?
compassion od you this once; so here's my
advice, leap into the welly and you'll be safe/-
^^ ' Is it into the well you manty says Darby,
* why then do you take me for a fool entirely V
** ' O ! you're a very wise man to be sure,
seeing youVe a scholar, Darby; so you may
take your own way if you like, and welcome.
Good night to you, Darby O'Reily,' said the
spiteful little fellow, slapping his cocked hat
on his head, and walking oiF with a mosi
malicious grin. ' Good night to you, Darby
O'Reily.'
'^ ^ Murder ! murder !' shouted Darby, for
by this time the fire had come so near that it
began to scorch him ; when seeing there was
no alternative, and thinking it better to be
drowned than burned, he made a desperate
plunge into the well.
^' Souse he went into the well, and souse
went the fire after him. Immediately the
tirater bubbled, sparkled, growled, and rose
above the verge of the well, filling with the
velocity of lightning all the adjacent hollow
ground, until it formed one of those little
sparkling lakes which are so numerous in this
hilly country.
/
1 18 LEGENDS DF THE LAKESi
^' Darby was borne with the speed of a
whirlwind on the top of a curling billow, and
cast senseless on the shore. The first thing
he saw on awaking from his trance was the
sun shining over him ; the first voice he heard
was that of the widow Fleming, who had tra>
veiled far and near in search of him ; and the
first word Darby uttered, upon thoroughly
recovering himself^ was, ' Bad luck to the
good people, for sure 'tis they that have been
playing tricks upon me all the night.' Then
he up and told the widow Fleming and the
neighbours the whole history of his night's
adventure.
" ' It's drunk you were, Darby, and you
know it,' said the widow ; * you're a bad
boy. Darby.'
" But whatever was the cause, whether
Darby got the charm from the Cluricaune or
not, it is certain that the widow Fleming not
long after became Mrs. O'Reily, and that
Ldch Bran or the Lake of the burning Cole
is to be seen to this day."
119
CHAP. VIL
AHAHUNNIG.
The road from Killbran to Killaraey is a
continued descent ; on our return we stopped
for a few minutes at the Spa of Tullig, which
as I have before said is a little stone-capped
neglected mineral spring, situated on the side
of the road, and having a rough furze-clad hill
rising immediately behind it. Leaving the
Spa, we crossed a little stream near it, through
which at the same moment a woman was
driving some cows ; and as her figure afforded
no bad illustration of the costume of the female
peasantry, I was induced to transfer it to my
sketch book. She was barefooted, and under
her green stuff gown, which was carefully pinned
up behind, appeared a red quilted petticoat.
The bottom of her blue frieze cloak was thrown
over her right shoulder in rather graceful folds,
and her head was enveloped in its formally
plaited hood. With a kippen or switch in her
left hand she urged the cattle forward, singing
a wild melody ; while her right hand, placed
120 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
akimbo, served to balance the milk pail which
she carried on her head.
We now regained the Kanturk road, and
turning to the right entered a pass or hollow in
the road formed by two bills which descended on
niher side. These hills were wild, heathy, and
covered with furze ; a few naked rocks were
Scattered through the hollow, and not unfre-
▲HAHUNNIG. 121
quently a patriarchal goat showed his revereDd
beard as he stood looking down in apparently
philosophical contemplation on the travellers
|)elow, ThQ streamlet which we had crossed
made sw.eet music as it brawled along beneath
the broad shadow of the hill^ conveying an
idea of coolDess^ doubly grateful from the
consciousness that we were walking in a sultry
autumnal day.
As we continued our course through the
pass we had a fine view of the mountains,
the Lower Lake reposing at their base, with
a broken country, and the rich oak woods of
the park, forming a beautiful foreground. On
our descent we gradually lost sight of the lake,
and arrived at Tiernabowl we could only see
the tops of the woods and mountains, save
where to the left Coltsman's Castle presented
itself to view, backed by the mighty Manger**
ton^ and the mountains of Loch Kittane and
Glanflesk.
Tiernabowl is the name given to this dis*
trict generally. Tierna signifies a lord or chief;
l^owl) according to the country people's trana*
lation, a spot or place. Hence Tiernabowl
appears to imply the chieftain's seat. It was
122 LE6ENBS OF THE LAKES.
formerly a lordship of the Mac »Sweeny, and
is still inhabited bj many of that name ; but a
few miserable cabins by the road side, mih
some sheltering trees, are all that Tiernabowl
can now boast of.
Instead of pursuing the road to Killarney,
we turned off by a pathway to the left, for we
had seen from Tiernabowl a hollow or glen
which appeared worthy of being explored.
Following this path, we had immediately be-
neath us a stony ravine, and bounding the
eastern horizon appeared those singularly
shaped mountains called the Paps. On reach-
ing a farmhouse we descended into the Glen
of Ahaliunnig, and lost sight of every thing
except the hills which immediately enclosed
us.
The part of the Glen into which we had
descended was rugged and uncultivated, having
only an unequal covering of furze mingled with
grey stones which lay scattered about the
bottom, and were traditionally said to be the
relics of fairy warfare. There was also here
a want of correspondence in the sides of tlie
Glen ; the one sloping down, while the other
fell suddenly to the verge of the brawling
I
i
AHAHUNN16. 123
Stream^ and exhibited a white gravellj surface^
as if the soil had gradually crumbled away,
and left it thus bare and abrupt*
Pursuing the course of the stream, or
rather its bed, for like most hill-born streams
it is nearly dry in summer^ we entered the
wooded part of the Glen. Near the com-
mencement of the wood, which is of oak,
sweeping at either side down to the stream,
we observed one tree of a particular formation,
and close to it a a large stone bearing the fol-
lowing nearly obliterated inscription :
MAY HE, LIKE ME, MfeET DUE DISGRACE.
M SWY (M* Sweeny) TOOK ME FROM MY PLACE
" Come Lynch," said I, " let me see how
you can sketch — here^s an easy subject fot
-* -.
124 LEGENDS OP THE LAKES.
you — that stone, with the general character of
the tree — don't trouble yourself with the lesser
branches.
*' Yes, that will do very well indeed — you'll
be a capital artist in time — I must have the
sketch for tny Guide Book."
* " Much flattered truly," replied Mr. Lynch,
*' by your commendations — ^you .really make
me quite proud, but I assure you I am not a
draftsman."
'* Nor a poet. Lynch f"
" Oh, that is quite a different thing — but my
sketch will at least show how well adapted the
tree is for the purpose to which it was ap-
plied."
^^ Adapted for the purpose to which it was
applied — 19 this the gallows tree then ?— Yoi*
AHAHUNNIG. }25
mean ^ Susper Col,* as such affairs stand upoo
official record — hanging, I suppose V
^^ Well guessed/' said Mr. Lynch, ^^ though
the Irish as a nation are not much given to the
vice of suicide per strangulation, having ^uffi*
cient of hanging matches at every assizes to
satisfy the national curiosity on that point —
yet this inscription and this tree remain in
remembrance of rather a melancholy story/'
*' I should like to hear a melancholy story/'
said I, ^' above all things — pray make it ^s
dismal as you can, for I see you are inventing/'
" No ! I give you my word/' said Mr. Lynch,
" I am not inventing, at least upon the present
occasion. It was a long time before I could
learn any thing concerning this tree and in^
scribed stone, although I had made repeated
inquiries, till chance threw me in the way of
an old man who related the tradition, which
tradition together with the narrator have since
nearly passed away from the memory of man.
The Mac Sweenys were originally inhabitants
of the north of Ireland. There were three
chiefs of that name all descended from the
O'Neils — viz. Mac Sweeny Fdnaide, Mac
.Sweeny Badhuine, and Mac Sweeny^na-
1
126 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
dtuadh, or Mac Sweeay of the battle-axes.
These chiefs were all of the same family. In
the thirteenth century a party, headed by the
two latter, made an adventuring excursion into
Munster, where they joined in the feuds of
the south, and becoming auxiliaries to the
Mac Carthys of Muskerry and Carberry, ac-
quired some disputed ground under these chiefs
whom they served. From him of the battle
axes the Mac Sweenys of Tiemabowl are
descended.*'
'< You are as good a genealogist Lynch, as
Ulster himself.''
^' There is now no chieftain," continued
Mr. Lynch " of the name in Kerry. The last
chief of the Mac Sweenys many years ago
inhabited a thatched farmhouse in the neigh-
bourhood of TiernabowL A proud man he
was of his descent, and though he had lost the
greater part of his estates in the revolution of
1698, and was outlawed before the surrender
of Limerick, he still managed to keep up the
style and consequence of an Irish chief. The
bard and the jester haunted his fireside ; and
crowds of idle followers, who knew no restraint
but their lord's will, were ready to obey him«
AHAHUNNie. 127
Jn fact, under the command of Mac Sweeny,
a formidable gang of freebooters, termed Rap-
parees from the half4)ikes or short sticks which
they carried, sprung up, who devastated the
country for miles around. And although plun-
dering both the partisans of James and William,
the security afforded by the woods, as well as
the strength of Mac Sweeny's mountain fast-
nesses^ rendered pursuit from either side after
cattle or goods an idle task,
*-^ One evening in the stormy month of No*
vember, the desperate dwellers in Tiernabowl
were collected around a blazing turf fire,
anxious for the return of their chief, who had
gone the preceding night on some secret expe-
dition, when suddenly above the sighing of the
rising wind was heard the tramp of a horse.
" ' 'Tis the coppul duvCy'* exclaimed Giila-
roo, who was Mac Sweeny's confidential man,
and whp received his name from the long^
flatted red locks which overshadowed his wea-
ther-beaten countenance; ^ 'tis the coppul duve,
and herd's the Mac Sweeny coming surely.'
^^ A shrill and well known whistle verified
Gilla-roo's assertion, and instantly out rushed
12@ LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
the clansmen, each bearing in his band a
blazing torch of the dry and splintered bog
deal. Great 9 however, was their wonder at
perceiving seated on his dark horse before the
chieftain, the fair form of a maiden, who was
> consigned with few words to the rough guar-
dianship of Gilla-roo.
" * Keep her safely," said Mac Sweeny ;
* when I was the lord of unproclaimed lands,
the proud Margaret Barry rejected my suit— =•
Now that I am a poor outlaw, with no ground
but what 1 stand on my own, she shall be mine.^
^^ Before daybreak the following morning,
Mac Sweeny departed from Tiemabowl at
the head of his retainers on a plundering ex^
cursion. It was his last, and few who accom-
panied him ever returned. Gilla*roo alone,
much to his dissatisfaction, was left behind to
guard the fair captive — slight guard did so
delicate and drooping a girl seem to require.
r
Gilla-roo was kind to her in his own rough
way ; he procured for her every comfort in his
power, and permitted her to range the glen :
fatal permission ! the second morning after the
chieftain^s departure, she was found suspended
AHAHUNNIG. 129
from this veiy tree, after having carved her
malediction on the rock.
^^ It is said that on the eve of this event, the
form of the ilUfated Margaret is seen flitting
through the glen, and her voice has been heard,
not after the wailing manner of the Banshee,
but in shouts of triumphant laughter, which
quicken the breath and curdle the blood of the
hearer.
" Years have passed away — more than a
century has elapsed, and the story is nearly
forgotten. This tree and this stone alone re-
main as memorials of deeds and of days which
the peasant no longer remembers, save when,
perhaps, during the darkness of the night, he
traverses the Glen of Ahahunpig, and piously
crossing himself mutters a prayer for the repose
of ^ the White Maiden of Tiernabowl,' although
in ignorance of her name and unfortunate
history."
When Mr. Lynch had concluded his story,
we arose to pursue our way through the glen ;
and though the golden light of a setting sun
made its way through the interstices of the
branches, and shot athwart our path, I almost
expected to see the form of the White Maiden
VOL. 11. • K
ISO LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
emerge from some of the recesses of the wood.
Issuing from the glen, we foand ourselves close
to the bridge of Balljcasbeen on the Cork
road.
^* Suppose/' said Mr. Lynch, as we stood
on the bridge, ^^ that instead of going direct
to Killamejy we visit the Druids' Circle; it is
not far from this, and there is yet sufficient
daylight."
'* With all my heart," said I; " my object is
to see every thing."
From the bridge we ascended, part of the
hill, and turning into a field on the left hand
side of the road, in a short time reached the
object of our search. As a rough sketch will
assist my description, here is one.
The Druids' Circle consists of a circular em*
bankment, resembling those commonly called
AHAHUNNIG. I5l
in Ireland Daniati Forts; within which are
placed seven rude upright stones. These stones
are about three, and a half feet in height, are
distant from each other about four feet and a
half, and from, the embankment twenty-five
(this, as the reader will perceive, is not very
accurately expressed in the sketch). The cir-
cumference of the area within the embankment
is about one hundred and three feet. Thirtyi-
jsix feet distant from the embankment on the
southern side, and seven feet from each other^
stand two upright stones of much larger dimen-
sions than those within the circle. They are
about twelve feet in circumference, and seven
in height. On oue of these some aspirant after
fame has carved
« JOHN LEOPOLD CAMPBELL OF DUBLIN/'
I therefore most kindly giye him the full
advantage of my volume to hand his name and
residence down to posterity [
While Mr. Lynch and I were, busily, engaged
in measuring this ancient monument, a couur
tryman returning from his day's work, prompted.
I doubt, not by curiosity, approached us«
*^ Deus MiragudXGod and the Virgin swm
jou)," said he
13£ LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
" De U8 Miragud agus Espadrig (God and
the Virgin, and St. Patrick save you)/' replied
Mr, Lynch, which is more than many other
conscientious Protestants would have said, for
abhorring all such idolatrous invocations, they
usually answer the common salutation of
" De us miragud" with " Ge moo Dea lat^'*^
that is, God be with you. Mr. Lynch, how-
ever, was not quite so scrupulous, and his reply
was the more agreeable to our visiter, who
quickly began to talk without restraint.
" Why then," said he, " thero are quare
stones sure enough, and it's a wonder how they
4;ame here; they must have been very strong
men that could lift them, any how."
" That's very true, indeed," said Mr. Lynch,
''but did you ever hear auy old story about
them ? I suppose it must have been the giants
who lived in Ireland long ago, that brought
them here."
" Why then that's the very thij)g that's said
about them, surely ; but myself believes they
were rale people, who was enchanted by
Donald Egeelagh, that lives in Loch-lane."
" Indeed ! and how was that ?" said I.
'^ Your honour must know then, that a long
time ago, there was two giants you see, and
AHAHUNN1G. 133
they had seven sonS; and these two big stones
are. the giants^ and the seven little ones are
their childer ^ nnd they thought to conquer the
country and bate all before them, so they made
war upon Donald Egeelagh (Daniel of the
lake), who lived down at Ross there — a mighty
great prince he was, and a great enchanter;
so when he couldn't get the better of the
giants and their seven sons by fair fighting, he
went to his enchantments, and turned them
into stones, and here they are from that day to
this. It's myself wouldn't believe a word of
it, if it wasn't that Tim Mulcaliy swore (and
sure. he wouldn't sware to a lie), that as he was
passing by late at night of a May eve, what
shoulcLhe see, but the two big stones turned
into giants again, and the seven little ones that
are their childer dancing like* any thing round
and round in the middle of the fort. And sure
there's something quare in the looks of them
for stones ; there was sijantleman once came
axing myself about them, and when I showed
them to him, he said they were the very things
he wanted, for he saw them all the ways from
the top of a big church in the city of Roomy
and sure how could he do that if there wasn't
enchantment upon them f "
134 LEGENSrS OF THE LAKES.
' " Very fair reasoning certainly/' said Mr.
Lynch ; '^ but as it is growing late we must bid
you good bye, — stay, here's a trifle to drink our
healths.''
<' Ocb, by the powers, and it's I'll do that
same cleverly, and success to your honour; and
may you and yours never want by night or by
day, but have all sorts of luck and ybr/tn."
The last red streak of light was fading away
from the western sky, as we entered the town
of Killarney ; and that had again given place
to the sober gray of twilight, as we re-established
ourselves in Gorham's comfortable parlour.
No lamps, as in London, arose twinkling
along the street, each after each giving its
gaseous star to view, at the magical touch of
the lamplighter. The only lamps Killarney can
boast of are the two which grace the rival inns.
They indeed shine unrivalled, and by their
light, as we looked from the parlour window,
might be discovered various groups of boatmen
and others, recounting the toils, the gains, and
the adventures of the day ; by the rays of Gor-
ham's lamp, I observed my oldcrewin close
consultation.
'* I wonder what the fellows are at!" said 1
to Mr. Lynch, '* no good, I am certain." But
AHAHUNNIG. 135
all wonder was soon put an end to by Doolan^
wboy perceiving us at the window, approached
hat in hand, with — '' Thunder alive ! your ho-
nour, only think of the mistake we made in
not christening a rock for your honour, that it
might ever and always have your honour's name
upon it. Why, then, that was a mistake and
a half sure enough ; but if s no matter, for
better late than never; and there's Murphy
(Father Murphy they calls him, for 'tis he
christens the islands) says it will do as well
now, and that heUl engage to christen a rock
after your honour/'
'^ As to a rock being christened after me,
Doolan, my honour is really very indifferent
about that honour; Crofton Croker Island
being already quietly established in the north
channel of Lake Huron, thanks to my worthy
friend, Captain Bayfield. But I understand
your application — all christenings are accom-
panied by merry-making, so here's a crown
towards the purchasing whiskey. And now
I have a right to ask how the ceremony is
performed."
" Why, then, I'll tell you that, sir — but, sure,
wherever else you may have an island, you have
*"*^^« -*.■.. '•— --- ^_/.--v*
L _
136 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
not one at Killarney, where, above all places in
the wide world, you ought; so the next time we
go out on the lake, you see^ weUl take Murphy
with us, because why he'll be the priest ; and
when we come to the rock or island that's to
have your honour's name upon it, then Father-
Murphy will stand up, and say, ^ In nomine
oculi mei atque Betty Martini oculi, I call
you Croker's Island;' with that heMl throw
a bottle of whiskey agin it, then a shot will
be fired, and we'll all give three shouts for
Croker's Island; then we'll land and drink your
honour's health; and that's the way we christens
the islands*."
* I cannot resist making a long extract from '^ poor
Anne Plumptre's" Tour in Ireland, that lady having been
actually present at a Killarney christening. — " Seveiul
islands," writes Miss Plumptre, " were pointed out to
me by the names which they bore, some others were not
particularized ; and inquiring what their names were, I
was told they had none. — ' How happens that?* I a^ed.
They did not know ; the others had been named by dif-
ferent parties visiting the lakes, and nobody had had
the fancy to give them names ; if I had no objection,
they should like very much to name one after me : then
pointing to a rock very near us, they said, that had no
name, we might land and christen it. I would not, how-
evet, permit my name to be given, as the habit of the
world has been ever to pronounce it as if it were a plum-
AHAHUNNI6. 13?
" And a very good way it is, Doolan — wish-
ing yoa much pleasure at the christening, I
now wish you good night."
'* And a very good night to your own honour,"
returned Doolan, *' and long life to you/^
*^ He forgot to tell you,'' said Mr. Lynch,
who had remained silent during this audience,
'' that there is one rock in the Upper Lake
which has been christened a thousand times
after as many people ; so, you see, you are not
very likely to establish your name among the
rocks of Loch Lane. Miss Plummer was far
more fortunate.*'
txee; I was sure that the island would never be called
any thing but Plum-tree Island ; and a tradition would
soon be affixed to it, that it was once covered with plum-
trees. I therefore declined being godmother, at least so
far as giving my own name to it was concerned ; but the
men seemed to have a great desire that it should be
christened, and begged that I would give it some name,
any that I fancied. ' Very well,' I said ; ' it shall be
called Kean's Island, after Mr. Kean the great actor.'
Oh they had often heard of him ; they should like that
name exceedingly ; they wished he would come to Kil-
laroey. We landed then ; it was a pretty rock, witli
some arbutuses and other shrubs and plants growing
upon it ; the people were all ranged in a circle, in the
midst of which the bugle horn-player, who I found was
the established clergyman upon these occasions, came
forward in the proper formulary, in a jargon of English,
•"v.
>. ^*.-»«. -. ' ^.^-<— V *
138 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
** Miss Plummer/' said I, '' should be, I
fancy^ Miss Plumptre — to be sure^ there is no
use in arguing against popular names, yet allow
me to tell you my reasons for venturing this
conjecture. If you ha?e read that lady's
quarto *' —
^' I never read quartos/' said Mr. Lynch.
'* Well, I, who have read it, can inform you
that Miss Plumptre gives an account of the
naming of an island or rock after Mr. Keati.''
« And what of that f"
*' Now I am coming to the point — ^for which
said Miss Plumptre most good-naturedly paid
Irish, and Latin, perfectly unintelligible to me; then
applying to me as godmother, I gave the name, ynYnsAt
he repeated with the addition of a little more jargon;
and the ceremony was concluded with throwing down
upon the rock a bottle of whiskey, which was dashed to
pieces. This part, I own, surprised me not a little; I
should never have expected to see a bottle of whiskey
thus disposed of; but the island they all said would not
have been regularly christened without it. Now, they
added, it could never have any other name*than Kean*s
Island, and as such it would be pointed out to all future
navigators on the lake. I should like much to know
whether it ever has been so to one. The conclusion
was, a hope that the crew might have a bowl of punch,
when they got home in the evening, to drink the god-
mother's health. I then perfectly understood the general
eagerness for the christening.''
AHAHUNNIG. 139
the piper, by treating the boat's crew. I have
no doubt this was done in a liberal manner,
and that the island in question has gone by her
name, mispronounced Pluroroer, instead of
Mr. Kean's. I am further confirmed in my
conjecture, from not finding Miss Plummer's
enumerated in any list of the islands which
had been published before the appearance of
Miss Plumptre's book — look, for instance, at
that in the Postchaise Companion through
Ireland, where it is not."
'* All this is very important," said Mr. Lynch,
** as you doubtless will make a page out of it
in your Guide Book — but it is growing late,
and I must depart — remember that to-morrow
we set out for Loch Kittane and Philadown,
and shall probably spend a night in the glens."
140 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
CHAP. VIII.
LOCH KITTANE.
In pursuance of our intention of visiting Loch
Klttane and Philadown, having furnished our-
selves with every thing necessary, we left Gor-
ham's on foot early in the morning, and took
the road which leads to Mucruss. As this route
has already been sufficiently described, I shall
merely say that the road to Loch Kittane turns
off to the left, exactly opposite the abbey gate,
having a farm house on its left, and on its
right the hill of Kiliagy, easily recognised by
the little tower which rises from the burial
ground on the summit.
We, however, did not proceed so far as the
abbey gate, but a short way beyond the carriage
entrance to Castle Lough, turned off by an old
neglected road, termed a Bohereen. In this
matter I merely followed the guidance of
Mr. Lynch, and I have no reason to regret my
passiveness on the occasion, as by so doing I
had a magnificent view of the Lower Lake.
This was obtained by leaving the road and
LOCH KITTANE. 141
gaining a bill, a movement, to use the military
phrase^ accomplished without the loss of ground.
Immediately beneath us lay Castle Lough Bay,
with the wide stretch of water extending from
theuce to the opposite mountain of Glens^,
To the south was the wooded and varied
peninsula of Mucruss, behind which towered
the pointed Turk, stretching away to the
Eagle's Nest, with here and there a glimpse
of the Middle Lake at it« base. And in the
distance appeared Macgillicuddy's Reeks and
Xhe giant mountains of the Upper Lake. To
the north was seen the woods of Castle Lough,
Cabirnane, and Ross Island. The western
portion of the lake did not from this point of
view present so wide a sheet of water as the
eastern, because Innisfallen and the Brown
Island, appearing like a continuation of Ross,
stretched far into the lake, narrowing its waters^
and giving this division rather the appearance
of a large winding river than part of a wide*
spreading lake. On the northern shore might
be discerned Grenagh and Lakefield, backed
by the woods of Mieniska, the hill of Aghadoe>
and the distant mountains of Castiemain and
Tralee^ which, from the haze of an autumnal
142 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
day, it required a keen eye to discover. The
whole formed, as prospect-hanters would say,
as fine a view as can well be imagined.
Extent is somehow always confounded with
picturesque beauty, when applied to the land-
scape by writers who are not artists.- I know
just sufficient of art to save me from making
the assertion; but I. will be equally candid,
and confess that the woods, the mountains,
and the works on Ross Island — the contrast
between rude nature and green cultivated fields
— the lake, now broad and unbroken, save by
a few gem-like islands, and now narrowed to
the dimensions of a river — now sweeping into
magnificent bays, and now presenting a long
unbroken line of richly wooded coast — while
over the whole was shed the cloudy efiects of
autumn — now a tender streak of light glancing
along the waters^^the waves now leaping in
dazzling brightness, and now rippling down
into darkness and repose. All these varied
objects and effects gave me so much delight,
that I felt little regret at the slight progress I
had made in the knowledge of art, if art indeed
could make rae look without admiration on a
scene like this.
LOCH KITTANE. 143
Turning to the east, we had before us a wild
country, and close to us, in a hollow of the
hill, a little heart-^aped lake, called Lough
Ardagh, remarkable only for the profusion of
camomile which grew on its borders.
Descending the southern side of the hill, we
gained. the road to Loch Kittane, which we
had not long pursued before our attention was
arrested by a busy hum, proceeding from a
cabin on the road side ; and we soon discovered
it to be what is commonly called a hedge school
or Kerry college.
Although not a Belzoni in stature, by dint
of stooping only I contrived to gain admittance
among the busy inmates; and upon my entrance
the hum of the students rehearsing their lessons
increased to such a marvellous degree, that I
could scarcely hear, or cause to be heard, the
salutation which I addressed to the dread ruler
of this learned abode. Mr. Lynch followed me,
although on his part it required a much more
considerable exertion, in the way of depres-
sion, to gain admittance; but once within, there
was ample room for the tallest man beneath
the thatched roof which rose from the low mud
144 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
walls. This roof displayed, stuck between its
*' 8cragh9 and thievaneSj"* an ample stock of
coverless Vosters, copy books, slates, and gray
goose quills, with two or three pendent racks,
made of the branchy fir, for the benefit of such
pupils as had either caps or hats to hang upon
them. The interior of the whole cabin wore
a black lackered appearance, conferred upon it
by the smoke of many a winter's fire, the hearth
for which stood beneath a huge vent, occupying
the full breadth of one of the gabies. At each
side of the door was a little window about a
foot square. But, on the whole, Mr. Casey's
college was rather a respectable edifice of the
description; for it could boast two real deal
forms, and instead of turf benches there were,
three fir spars placed along the wall, each end
supported by stones, in order to elevate the
students to a comfortable sitting height. There
was, moreover, a table for the use of writers
and cipherers. Of all these accommodations
Mr. Casey seemed not a little proud, as he sat
enthroned on a rush-bottomed chair, which he
facetiously termed his '^ Sanctum Sanctorum."
. " Whisht there, will ye, by's^ and let the
j
LOCH KITTANE. 145
gentlemen spake^'*^ roared Mr. Casey, at the
same time flourishing his rod of power, by
way of enforcing his commands.
^' You have a good school, Mr. Casey, and
very well attended," said Mr. Lynch.
** Why, I may say, there's worse to be found
elsewhere, though 'tis I that say it, that shouldn't
say it ; but 'tis nothing to spake about now to
what it is in the winter, because why the b^s
are minding the harvest and herding the cattle
on the mountains ; 'tis the busy time now, and
their faders and muders, God help them, can't
spare the chUder from the work to the laming^*
** I dare say some of your scholars are pretty
far advanced," said I.
** You will see, sir, in a minute— Come up
here, you Murty Murphy, and bring your
Voshter wid you ; do you hear me now Pm
Bpaking to you f "
Up came Murty, Voster in hand, a carroty-
pated boy, dressed in a loose frieze coat, sheep-
skin breeches open at the knees, and having
neither shoes nor stockings, to conceal a pair of
well mottled shins, the effects of his chimney
corner cogitations.
Having heard Murty, with a rich br<^e, go
VOL. 11. L
146 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
through a sum in the Rule of Three Direct^
we bade farewell to Mr. Casey and his college,
though strongly urged by him to remain for
the radingf quilling, and even for the abece-
derians^
" Och/' said he, " Murty*s nothing to be
proud about to my little abecederians ; they're
rale genusesj every mother's sowl of them, in
their way."
" Mr. Byrne was a man
Of very great big knowledge, sir,''-^
hummed Mr. Lynch, as we proceeded on our
way.
^' Oh, that's Spillane^s song,"^ said I, *' do
you know it, Lynch f **
" I remember part of it,** replied Mr. Lyncli^^
** but you've put me out, so I'll come to the
chorus, and try if I can give you a verse or
two.
" Qh, the master by the fireside.
With Paudeen on his knee,^
Both roaring out together
Great ABC.
" And now what's next V^
LOCH KITTANE. 147
*^ Great A he disoompared
To a cabin's gable end, sir;
And B it stood for butter,
That we to market send, sir ;■
C for half a griddle,
H, the great big haggard gate, sir,
I, a pitchfork stuck in the ground,
And K it stands for Kate, sir."*
*^ Shall I give the dialogue which follows d
la Mathews?*' iaquired Mr. Lynch.
" Oh, by all nieaos."
'^ Here„ by'$y shake a grain of straw along the wall for
the little girls to sit on — ^throw your tur& in the comer —
and bring over my stool here close to the fire. I thought
I*d toiM you before, Felix, to bring a sod of turf every
morning? — Sit down, sir, — ^sit down, I say,, on the floor
along with the rest and get your lesson, and don't let
me see you near the fire all this blessed day. Now, ln/$y
what are you after? — Silence! — A-h ab; ^^»-g bag —
Silence ! — Jem Dogherty, whip the door off the hinges
and clap it on this row of sods — there now, borrow a bit
of chalk from Kemahan, till I write a large hand copy
— hum buzz — ^ba, be, bi, bo, bu, buzz — ^Terry Flanagan,
come over here — Arrah, why but you come, sir, when I
bid you? — See here, spell me this word — Con-stan-ti-
no-ple — B\/$y that's tbe name of the grand Turk !— See
what it is to know navigation — I don't suppose there's
a man in the barony, barring myself and the priest, could
tell you who Constantinople is 1"
" Bravo, Lynch, bravo I"
i48 LEGENDS OP THE LAKES.
" Upon my word you're welcome;
Pray what kept you till now, sir ?
Indeed it was my father.
He sent me for the cow, sir.
I would have brought you some firesh eggs.
But the hens they were not laying.
Go long — sit down — I'll beat you well,
For I know you have been playing,
" What have you been about this morning? — ^Where's
your book ?— take off your hat, you dunce, take it off —
stand up in the corner — keep your fingers out of your
mouth — ^Ah, you dog, I'll flog you first, and then cut
the sowl out you after, so I will — ^how dare you mitch fi^m
school? — What kept you, 1 say? — Sir, it was— Silence
in a moment ; how dare you, sir, say a word when I'm
ipakiTig ? Och, I'll let your Baither know the courses you
carry on in Sir, it was my mother bid me say she'll
be much obliged to you to come over at dinner time.—
Put on your hat, Paddy, you're a well reared boy, and
I'll make a man of you — Oh your mother, Paddy, is the
woman that will have luck. Tell her I'll be there as*
strict as if it was a binch warrant — take care how you go
across the river, it's very deep — ^O you'll be a bishop
yet, Paddy ; it'll be seen who taught you.
^ So when I'm late for school.
The excuse 'twill be my mother, sir ;
And when that one won't do,
I'll try and make another, sir.
For my mother is a good man,
And so, sir, is my daddy —
And 'twill not be my feult
If I'm not their own Baddy O*
LOCH KITTANE. 149
^* And how did you get home yesterday, Pat dear?
and how is all your very good father's fEimily?— dome
here now, and let me see how you'll read this little
gtory. — ^A boy w-e-n-t went out one day to rob birds'
aests, but he had not g, gone far w-h-^n when he met
a 1-i-t lit, t-l-e til (that's ' little/ Paddy) met a litUe girl
— ^Ay, Paddy, mind that; if he had been going to school
that would not have happened him — Stick to your book,
Paddy, and tak« care you meet no- little girls — met a
titde girl with a jug— ^-That's my pointet^-Stand over
there and let me see the fire — No, I won't — Silence there,
silence, I say, or I'll be the death of ye all — ^buzz — ^buzz
— ^hum."
'^ Well done, Lynch ! — an excellent picture,
by my word, of a Kerry college !"
The road leading to Loch Kittane runs along
the base of Mangerton, having that mountain
on the right, with the Devil's Punch bowl
and the Glen of the Horse. The foreground
is composed of rock and heath, and was covered
with numerous flocks of goats. The country
to the left of the road consists of dreary bogs
and extensive heaths; here and there, indeed,
an attempt at cultivation appears; and in such
places the wretched fields are surrounded by
walls of the loose gray stones which had been
collected from the surface, while frequently a
considerable portion of the fields themselves
-*• --f
150 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
were occupied bj large heaps of the same kind.
Sometimes^ however, a round cultivated swell,
and a secluded green hollow, would show
themselves amid the unprofitable waste by
which they were surrounded. The road, never-
theless, was tolerably romantic ; and with the
assistance of Mr. Lynch's song, I found suffi-
cient to amiise and interest me, until we reached
the shore of Loch Kittane, at that point where
the river, emerging from its north-western
extremity, proceeds to join the Flesk, which
after many a winding, and receiving many
tributary streams in its course, discharges it^
waters into the Lower Lake of Killamey.
Loch Kittane, at the distance, of about foui*
or five miles to the south-east of Killamey, isi
situated in a nook formed by the mountains of
Mangerton and Crobane. In size it is nearly
the same as the Middle Lake of Killamey, that
is, if the various bays and indentations of thd
latter are left out of the account. Loch Kit^
tane can boast of but one small island, and its
greatest sweep of water seems to run from
south-east to north-west. Its northern shore
consists almost entirely of bo^, but it is a bog
which might easily be improved ; in the north-
' - . * -
LOCH KITTANE. 151
eastern corner^ oo rising ground^ is a cultivated
farm, which, though in any other situation it
would hardly be noticed, yet here, from the
contrast between it and the surrounding shores,
has an agreeable effect. The western shore
is also a cultivated hill, but the eastern and
southern boundaries are entirely rocky and
precipitous mountains, except to the south-
east, where a rugged glen, called Kippoch,
runs for a short distance between the mountains
of Crohane and Mangerton ; his glen is par-
tially cultivated, and contains a few cabins, but
the irregular outline of the mountains which
back it is highly picturesque.
In the course of our ramble round the lake,
we entered a cabin in Kippoch, in search of
legendary lore, and here we found only a little
boy : his father and mother, he said, were gone
to Killarney ; and from the extreme caution of
his answers, and the difficulty of extracting any
information from him, I verily believe that he
took us for tithe proctors, collectors of church
rates, or excisemen.
" Is the ground good here ?" inquired Mr,
Lynch.
I
159 LEGRNDS OF THE LAKES.
'^I don't know," was the reply; certainly
the question was rather a suspicious <»ie.
" Do you keep many cows f **
« I don't know/'
" Are there any blackberries here f (we had
observed a great profusion of them.)
" I don't know.'*
*^ Have yon a head on your shoulders ?"
'' Eagh !"
^* Did you ever hear of a big worm in the
lake?"
This question seemed to rouse the boy a
little ; I suppose from the natural desire we
all feel to deal in the marvellous.
*' The worm is it, fakes then sure enough^
there is a big worm in the lake."
**How large is it?"
'* Why then, it's as big as a horse, and has a
great big mane upon it, so it has."
" Did you ever see it ?
" No, myself never seed the sarpint^ but it's
all ode, for sure Padrig a Fineen did."
'* And where does Mister Fineen live ?"
*^ Beyond there in Kippoch, where die trees
are."
« -
LOCH KITTANE. 153
On this iDteliigence^ we set off for Mister
Fineen^s dwelling, to which the trees were a
sure guide^ as there were no others in the ne^h*
bburhood, and even these did not muster to
more than hal^ a dozen, in the immediate
neighbourhood of a coupie of cabins.
Arrived at Mr. Fineen's^ we found two
smoky cabins, inhabited by as many families ;
a parcel of children were playing in the dirt
before the door of one of them, and the
youngest of the group was rolling about
among the pigs on some wet litter, in a state
of nature.
Mister Fineen was absent; but his better
balf^ a fresh looking country wench, informed
us that he had never seen any such thing as a
worm or sarpint, but that once upon a time,
and a very good time it was, he thought he
saw something like a dog or a quare baste
rolling in the water.
Disappointed in our expectations, we were
about to retire, when the owner of the next
cabin stepped forward and — and what ? I sup-
pose the reader thinks and told us a story — he
did no such thing.
154 LEGENDS OF THE LAEES.
Wbat theuf he stepped forward aod most
hospitably offered us potatoes, and butter, and
eggs, and milk, which invitatioD, let me tell
yon, among the classic mountains of Kerry is
not to be refused. Here is the group as we
entered the cabin. -
I shared the potatoes of hese poor people
with an appetite and a relish, which could such
matters be purchased were worthy of attention
" Now, Lynch, I'll try an Irish lore song :
LOCH KITTANE. 155
White yoa my fair the praties peel
With irresistless art,
Alike I smile — alike I feel
Thy nails within my heart.
The smoking jTrafy's doom*d to know
That soon its pangs will end.
While I alas — alas — alas —
I have broken down."
^' No more vaunting now, if you please/*
said Mr. Lynch, "over * the grand roaster.'"
A shilling given to one of the children by
Mr. Lynch (I think he selected the hero of
the potato pot to be the receiver of his liberal
donation), called down upon us a hundred
thousand blessings from these poor people.
^^ Such a world of thanks, and wishes, and
blessings,'' said I, '* that seem to come so from
the heart, is cheaply purchased, Lynch, by that
sovereign."
'* A sovereign ! It may be very well for you
London folk to talk thus! but you seem to
forget that I am a poor half«pay creature, and
know the value of a sovereign! I gave the
urchin a shilling, and most liberal payment it
was. None was expected, and I was therefore
obliged to make our acknowledgments accept-
156 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
able in the shape of a gift to the youngest
child, to whom I should have given sixpence
instead of a shilling had I happened to have
one in my pocket ; that is, you knovir, double
a Kerry bank note/'
** You do not mean to say that you have
threepenny bank notes ?'*
" Not at present," replied Mr, Lynch,
*^ but such things have been, as I can prove to
you on our return to Kiliarney."
The appearance of Loch Kittane, from its
proximity to the mountains, is in general dark ;
and not unfrequently the mountain breeze
lashes its waters into foam, and sends tbem in
thundering waves against the shores; like all
lakes, it is sometimes calm and bright, but
whether calm or stormy, it is a romantic spot,
and wants but the fostering hand of man to
render it delightful. For the tasteful angler,
Loch Kittane has many attractions, being,' in
addition to its situation, well stored with ex*
cellent trout. Its chief fault ia the total absence
of wood on its banks; if trees were added. Loch
Kittane would be highly romantic ; for during
our circumambulation, we discovered many a
fairy nook^ where Mr. Lynch would fain have
- - -* -. <r - •
LOCH kiTTANE* 157
built a picturesque cottage^ and have taken up
his abode. On this subject he grew quite
poetical^ as the following verses will testify.
Loch Kittane! Looh Kittane! amid dark mountains
pillow'd,
Where Mangerton meets with the hill of CToh^ne,
Whether sleeping in peace, or by mountain breeze hiU
low'd,
Still dear to my heart is the lone Loch Kittane.
For oft by its shores have I wandered alone.
Or reclined 'mid the heather, bright springing around,
Where the hum of the wild-bee came joined with the tone
Of streamlet and wave, in one musical sound.
Then magical fancy has framed me a bower,
Far down in the hollow of rocky Kippoch,
A home of the heart! where no storm-cloud should lower,
Save that which pass'd over the breast of the Loch —
But the calmer to leave, and more peacefully clear
The ripples that circle its one little isle,
As though the storm frown'd but the more to endear
The peace and the sunshine which lights up its smile*
More bright and more beauteous a spot there may be.
Than the wild lake where Mangerton meets vrith
Crohine ;
But none that are brighter or dearer to me,
Tiianthe rodk'^illow'd wave of tlie lone Loch Kittane.
158 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
CHAP. IX.
PHILADOWN.
" Glen — a valley, a vale, space between two
hills,^' so says the dictionary. Now whether
the aforesaid sage authority be right or wrong,
I care not a jot : whether a valley, a vale, and
a space between two hills are one and the
same; whether a glen id a valley, a valley a
vale, or a space between two hills both valley,
vale, and glen ; or whether a space between
two mountains may signify the same as a space
between two hills, are points which I leave to
the decision of quibbling and word-ferreting
critics.
But one thing is certain, and that h, that at
present I have nothing to do with any word
but glen. From this, however, arises the
question as to what are the ideas attached to,
or conveyed by, the aforesaid word ? Does not
the reader feel a thousand, nay, ten thousand
romantic associations floating through his brain
at the very sound of the word glen i Are there
not immediately torrents foaming; mountains
I
FHILADOWN. 159
ascending, green knolls smiling, and dark
woods waving? to say nothing of verdant
hollows, terrific chasms, deep recesses, frown-
ing cliffs^ murmuring rivulets, sheltered farms,
and flower-covered cottages. Are not all these
pretty words mingling in glorious confusion^
floating and flitting before your mind's eye at
the mention of a glen? besides sundry ideas
of peace, sunshine, rusticity, love, and poverty,
with other things, or ideas of things, too tedious
at present for particular mention. If this is
not the case with you, '^ gentle reader," as
Mr. Lynch would say, I envy not your poetical
powers. But as I have nothing whatever to
do with poetry at present, I may as well pro-
ceed at once to the glen of the river Flesk,
commonly called Glanflesk, in which is situated
the cliff of Philadown, containing the famous
Labig Owen, or Owen's Bed.
Commencing, therefore, as I ought to have
done before, with the conclusion of the last
chapter; I must acquaint those, who are
desirous of further information, that before
Mr. Lynch had finished his rhymes, we had
left their subject Loch Kittane behind us, and
160 LEGENPS OF THB LAKES.
were proeeediog at a good pace towards Phi-
ladowo.
After pursuiog for some time a hilly road
along the base of the mountains, commanding
to the left a view of a coarse broken country,
such as might be expected in a land of hills^
we came in sight of the ruins of Killaha castle,
built by one. of the O'Donoghue^s, the ancient
chiefs of Glanflesk. Passing this castle, of
which I shall have occanon to speak hereafter,
we descended to the lower or main road lead-
ing from Killamey to Glanflesk. Until the
new line by the Upper Lake was made, this
was the only road by whidi a carriage could
proceed from Killamey to Kenmare, a distance
of about twenty-four miles. The new line
now supersedes the old road so far as Kenmare
is concerned, but nevertheless, the latter pro*
mises to be much travelled, as a cross road is
makii^ from Glanflesk to Macroom, which
will shorten- the distance from Killamey to
Cork about seven miles. Be this as. it may,
turning to the right we began to enter the glep,
and had not advanced far, before we met a
smart, olive-complexioned litde man, dressed
PHILADOWN. I6l
in a black coat, blue trowsers, and an oilakio
covered hat, vulgarly termed " a glazier,"
^^ How do you, doctor ?*' said Mr. Lynch.
^ Quite well, I thank you, and how is every
inch of yourself? is it to Philadown you*re
going ?"
*^ The very place, doctor ; you'd guess eggs
if you saw but the shells. Will you accompany
us to Labig Owen i"
« I have no objection/*
*^ That's well said, my little doctor, for as
you are potent in the glens, your friendly aid
and countenance may be of service to us.*'
The doctor proved a very entertaining com*
panion, possessing the free and easy manners
of an nntravelled Irish gentleman, and making
but little professional display, except when
now and then as we advanced up the glen, he
would discover his knowledge of simples, by
advertbg to the plants which we met on our
way, especially if any of the natives happened
to be present. Doubtless the doctor had often
relieved the inhabitants of the glen from the
effects of shilelagh and whiskey, and they, in
return, evidently regarded him as a second
VOL. ir. M
162 LEGENDS OF THE l«AKES.
Galen. Certain it is, that ve were indebted
for a great deal of attention to the respect our
companion was held in by the country people.
We had not proceeded far, before our notice
was attracted by a pair of. shelties, saddled
and bridled; standing before the door of a
wretched hovel, from the eave of which \i*ere
suspended the. neck of a broken bottle, and a
sod of turf; the one intended to inforoa the
traveller that here he might regale bimaelf with
a draught of Irish nectar, and the other that
he might also be accommodated with that fra-
grant plant commonly called tobacco.
*' What say you, doctor, to some mountain
dew ?" inquired Mr. Lynch.
/' Faith, I'm not particular/' replied the
doctor. ^^ But I think a drop may not be
amiss to your friend. May I prescribe for you^
sir ?" said he, bringing a very good-humoured
smile to bear full upon me.
I stammered out something,* I really forget
what, or whether it was meant for ves or no;
but while we were debating the matter, a tall
middle-aged man, with a sun-burnt visage,
stepped forth from the but and stood erect
PHIL A BO WN^ 163
before os. He had evidently been sacrificiog
to the rosy god, and like the generality of his
countrymen^ in proportion as his head became
confused by whiskey, his heart ^dilated with
love and friendship.
No sooner did he spy the doctor, who had
been making sundry movements to avoid the re-
cognition, than with three gigantic strides, such
as would not have disgraced O'Donoghue him-
self, he at once enclosed him in a firm embrace.
*^ Arrah then, docture^ is it yourself? 'tis
myself then that is right glad to see you up the
glen. May be you'd be going to Philadown
now — but you'll be after stepping into the
Cabra and taking a drop first, and then 'tis I'll
^o with you myself, and get you a ladder, and
show it ail to the jcmtlemen sure."
In vain did we protest against accompanying
Jiim into the but. '^ Sure I'm an O'Donog-
hue," was the reply, '^ and my foot is in the
:gleB." There was no resisting this speech ; at
least we thought so, and submitted quietly.
If the outside of this hovel wore a miserable
•appearance, the interior was much worse, af-
fording between its low, damp, mud walls just
164 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
room enou^ for three or four wassailers, and
the withered, smoke-dried beldam, who super*
intended their orgies, and dealt out the in«
spiring potion. The hestrth displayed just fire
sufficient to light a pipe, and fill the hut with
smoke, which after gracefully curling about the
heads of those within, made exit through the
door and a hole in the roof, for chimney was
there none.
'^ In Ireland so frisky, with sweet love and whiskey.
We manage to keep care and sorrow aloof;
At our whirligig revels, make all the blue devils
Creep out with the smoke through a hole in the Eoof."
The love and friendship of Mister Daniel
O'Donoghue, which would have overwhelmed
us with whiskey, being in some degree ap<-
peased, we departed, but not before the said
O'Donoghue bad insisted on our mounting the
shelties we had seen at the door.
It was fortunate for us that we did not
linger, for scarcely were we out of sight of the
hut, when such discordant shouts and yells rent
the air, that to speak classically:— the furies
appeared to have broken loose.
PHILADOWK. 165
" What can this mean ?'* said I to Mr.
Lynch^ ^^ these shouts — hark ! they approach
us — something desperate is going forward.'*
We pulled up — unable to assign any satis-
factory cause for the fearful sounds which
assailed our ears, and seemed to proceed from
the peaceful spot which we had left but a few
moments before.
" The robbing thieves of the world," mut-
tered O'Donoghue. " Well, we are out of the
matter quietly — thank goodness/' said the
doctor.
"The spillers of decent men's drink — the
ruinaters of the country ; never welcome them
among us," continued O'Donoghue; " but 'tis
the boys of the glen that have a heart and a
hand, and that knows how to sarve such like
fellows out any daj' of the year. Hurrod,
here they come, or they'll catch it"
** Silence !" exclaimed the doctor, as two
unfortunate excisemen, with old cavalry sabres
clattering at their sides, appeared in full view,
riding for their lives from a shower of stones,
the carcases of dead animals, and even pitch-
forks^ which were hurled after them by an
infuriated crowd of peasants.
■*%* "% ■
On perceiving us, insteai^ of coming towards
where we stood, being perhaps uncertain whe-
ther we were fiiends or foes, the poor hunted
excisemen turned off the road and were 6omi
out of sight as well as their pursuers, who, per-
ceiving they could not overtake them, cut
across by a mountain path with the view of
intercepting their retreat from the gten.
" What business have the likes of them in
the glen at all i" said O'Donc^hue. " Sure
then 'tis quare laws that won't let the poor
lone widow sell her drop of poiteea ia pact
phu^adown;. 167
and quietness. BhI His the boys of the glen
that have both hearts and hands, and will be
after making all scheming blackguards like
them fellows, think twice before they come
among them agi«."
^^ 1 agree with my worthy friend the doctor/'
said Mr Lynch, " in thinking that we are well
out of this affair — ^and now suppose we move
forward."
Glanflesk is a long vaHey, through which
deep and sullen flows the Flesk ; its banks are
divided into fields of oats and potatoes, with
meadow and grazing ground, having here and
there a cabin, and sometimes a nest of cabins
at the foot of the hills. The hills themselves^
which rise from, and hem in the valley at either
side, are bare, rocky, and rugged, without
altitude sufficient to give them sublimity, or
brokenness of outline sufficient to render them
picturesque, and having neither tree nor shrub
to grace their sides. The road winds along
the base of these hills, sometimes nearing the
bank of the river, and sometimes receding
from it, thereby leaving space for the fields
already mentioned. At the opposite side of
the river, the space between it and the hills is
iiH f ' ^<
168 LEGENDS 0¥ THE XAKES.
somewbat wider^ and is called *^ the Inc^," as
all level ground near a river is termed in Ire-
land. The Inch of Gianflesk is divided into
upper and lower. The hills at the. opposite
side of the river from the road, exhibit in some
places comfortable farms^ and verdant spots,
snatched as it were from the wilderness around.
Yet, notwithstanding this untempting descrip*
tion, the glen is not entirely without charms
for the tourist. He will sometimes meet with
grotesque masses of rock, and sometimes - be
astonished at the shivered fragments, which
strew the sides of the hills. As he travels
along, he will be amused bj.gazing upwards
at the fearless goat browsing far above him,
while perhaps, higher still, the hawk, the eagle,
or the heron may be seen soaring far away,
till the speck is lost in the clouds: and now,
perhaps, his attention will be directed down-
wards, to some green retreat, some spot of
beauty, the more beauteous from the waste by
which it is surrounded. Sometimes the clouds
and vapours may be seen floating around the
hill tops in a thousand fantastic forms, and
when these are gone, and the hill tops are
clear, little white clouds of curling smoke may
PHIL A DOWN. 160
be perceived ansing frotn ibe furze and heather^
which the laborious peasant is burning in order
to increase the coarse herbage of hb farm. If
the weather has been wet^ both eye and ear
will be delighted, the one with the foam, and
the other with the dash, of a thousand torrents;
There are few things which so completely
baflie the pen and the pencil as these mountain
waterfalls. The rapid and incessant motion
of the water, which flows not in a continued
stream, running always the same from rock to
rock, but comes down in flushes, flourishing
in successive circles, covering a point of rock
at one moment with a sheet of water, and
leaving it bare the next It is impossible ade*
quately to paint or describe all the endless
variations, and I doubt whether any descrip-r
tion, although such may perhaps recall ideas
to those accustomed to observe mountain falls,
would give much information to a person who
had never seen one. In the boasted cataracts
of America this shifting motion can have little
or no effect upon the general scene, which is
on too magnificent a scale for the observance
of such minutiae, but in the falls of this country
it is a circumstance which adds much to the
170 LEGENJ>S OB THS lAKES.
beaiity, or at least to the amusement of tli«
A.sudden tarn in the road disclosed to view
the wooded hill, or cliff of Philadown, which
came as refreshing upon our view, as the
twinkle of a lighthouse to the weary mariner.
Here we were soon surrounded by a crowd
of the Glensters, or Glanfleskians, while Daniel
O'Donoghue hastened to hold the stirrups, and
help us to dismount. He then vaulted into the
saddle of one of the nags himself, and galloped
off in search of a ladder ; as there is no reach-
ing that part of the cliff called Labig Owen;
or the bed of Owen the outlaw, without such
assistance.
After the bare tract we had traversed, the
cliff of Philadown, from the circumstance of
its being wooded, appeared peculiarly pleas-
itig; and the wood itself was not the less
itgree^ble, for having assumed the rich and
varied hues of autumn, which we beheld
glancing beneath the glorious light of a golden
eve. On the return of O'Donoghue with the
ladder, well pleased did we explore the re-
cesses of Philadown, and right gaily did we
Spring from rock to rock, now catching at the
PHJLADOWN. 17 1
tbng purple heath, and now susUining ourselves
by tl)« trunks and branches of the trees^ till:
further progress was stayed by a formidable
Pock.
Having placed the ladder against this bar-
rier^ we^mounted, and found ourselves on an
irregular platform, to which- there was no other
means of access, as on every other side th^
cliff was perpendicular, deep, and masked by
wood ; so that it is obvioujs, a single desperate
man, possessed of this hold, might, if well pro*
visioned, keep it against hundreds.
To render this station still more impregnable,
tt was overhung by the cliff above, which at
once afforded security and shelter. On the face
of the rock, we observed inscribed the names
of several vuiters, and while I looked around^
Mr; Lynch added his to the number. Per*
teiving that he was observed, he turned to me,
spying something, of which the first words I
caught, were — " The old adage, you know,
runs thus :
*. He who writes his name upon a tree,
Is a fool and eVr will be:
He who writes his name upon a wall,
Is a fool and ever shall.*
But there's not a word said about a rockT
17^ LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
A long horizontal fissure was pobted out
to me as the chimney appertaining to the
fireplace of the famous Owen; and I was
also shown a hollow, which was his reservoir
for water, as it received all that dripped from
the cliffs above.
^' And who/^ said I, ^' was this famous
Owen r
The doctor, to whom this question was
addressed, immediately prepared himself for
reply, by assuming the attitude of a speaker,
and the glensters crowded around, prepared to
wonder and applaud.
^^ Owen,*' said he, ^' Owen was a famous
outlaw of the. olden time, who for a long period
kept possession of this strong hold, out of which,
as you may perceive, it would not be an easy
matter to drive a resolute and desperate man ;
but in those days the difficulty was much
greater; for, besides that the glen was thickly
wooded, there was at. that time no such thing
as a road through it. Owen was also an
O'Donoghue, as, indeed, were all the inhabi-
tants of these glens ; and though a few other
names may now be found among them, yet
even these are connected by marriage with the
O'Donoghne ; thus connected, and in posses-
PHILADOWN. 173
sion of this natural fortress, it is no wonder
that Mr. Owen considered himself not only
secure^ but at perfect liberty to pursue his
system of depredation, and indulge his cattle*
lifting propensities.
'^ Moreover, was he not the strongest man
of bis day ? for even to the present hour,
popular tradition represents him as having
been able to take a cow by the horns and dash
her down the cliff; indeed, this is said to have
been his usual savage mode of killing cattle.
^* But Owen's chief strength and exultation
lay in the favour of the O'Donoghue himself,
or, as he was called, O'Donoghue Geoffry,
who at that time resided in Killaha Castle.
'^ The Sasenagh had been the spoiler of the
O'Donoghue ; many broad lands had he lost ;
and in return, it was but natural, while dining
on some of Owen's stolen beef, that he should
feel a peculiar relish, and a keener appetite,
when he reflected that he was partaking in the
spoil of the spoiler.
'^ Notwithstanding all these causes for se-
curity, it happened that the. support which
Owen the outlaw deemed the strongest, namely,
.the protection of his chieftain, was really the
1 74 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
weakest of all: for the great O'Donogfane
himself, in his faaWed towards ihe Sofenaghs,
was not very mindful of their laws ; and, once
upon a time, a few of his depredatory freaks,
on rather a large scale, brought down upon the
chief of the glens the vengeance of the powers
that were ; so that aU the authorities, civ3 and
military, were united against him.
*^ Now this great chieftain, taking into con^
sideraUon that self-preservation is the first law
of nature, determined to redeem himself, by
giving up his clansman, the redoubtable Owen,
on whom he laid all the blame of his own
transgressions. — By an act of -treachery, Owen
was decoyed from his bed on the roc4, and
giiards were posted to prevent his return.
Disguised as a crippled beggar-man, be wan^
dered for months through the -country, and at
last was surprised by a party of English soldiers
at the cottage of a poor woman in the glen> •
*' < Nance— Nance,' exclaimed tlie outlaw,
frowning defiance upon his {Nirsuers beneath,
' cut my hamstrings ;' thereby meaning the
straps which attached the wooden stumps to
his legs. These, his memorable words, have
since passed into a Gkinfleskian proverb. But
l>MH.ABOWN. 175
|be woman was tpo much alarmed at tbe near
approach of the soldiers to free Owen from
his assumed disguise ; he easily became <he
captive of the English, and without much
ceremony took his lord's place on the . gallows
** Thus ended tlie life and adventures of
-Owen the outlaw; and Labig Owen has since
femained without a tenant, except when for a
short time it was occupied by the murderers of
a Mr. Hutchinson ; but their sculls are now
bleaching on the Bridewell in Macroem^ and
Labig Owen is now only visited by the
fashionable tourist, the note-»hunting author,
or the artist on his summer ramble."
When the doctor had concluded his story,
there was a general murmur of approbation
among the gleasters, who, though they scarcely
understood a sentence of what he had said,
were lavish of their praises, expressed in such
exclamations as ^^ Arrah, then, hasn't the doc-
tare fine Ingeiish wid him ?"— " Mo grine
chree*^ docture^ Uis you can «tell a story any
how."
^^ Here, Lynch," said I, ** here is an illus-
♦ The sunshine ^f my heart.
176 LEGENDS OB THE LAKBS.
tfation of that most picturesque incident in the
history of Owen the otitlaw — 'Nance — Nance,
cut my hamstringi.' "
" It will make no bad figure in the Guide
Book," said Mr. LjhcIi, as be returned me the
sketch.
From Labig Owen there la a pleasing view
of the windings of theFlesk, the opposite
mountains, the farm of Upper Inch, and even
Philadown itself, in consequence of the bend
which it makes, adds part of its. wood to the
prospect. A short way above Philadowu the
glen divides iuto two branches, one running
PHILADOWN. 177
towards Kenmare, and the other by Bally-
youmey towards Macroom^ foriDing a figure
something like A turned thus.
Through that branch of the glen which leads
to Ken mare, descends the river Looha; and
through the branch leading to Macroom mur-
murs the Oydagh — both meet not far from
PhiladowD ; and from the ** meeting of the
waters" the united streams take the name of
Flesk.
Descending from Labig Owen, we crossed
the road, and sat down on the margin of the
river Fiesk, which, from its being shallow, here
became garrulous: and here, drawing forth our
store of provisions, we began to appease, as
the little doctor called them, .those stomachic
symptoms vulgarly denominated hunger.
While thus employed, we occasionally gave
small pieces of bread to the children, who were
mingled with the glensters' men and women,
by whom we were surrounded, as objects of
wonder. This act at once engaged the hearts
of the mothers ; we soon perceived a stir and
whisper, and shortly after five or six of the
women tucked up their petticoats, crossed the
ford, and proceeded towards Inch House, an
VX)L. H. N
178 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
old ruinous slated building, surrounded by a nest
of cabins. The house was the first residence
of the chiefs of Glanflesk^ and is said to be
much older than Killaha Castle, though in far
better repair, being still inhabited.
In a short time we perceived the women
returning with piggins (small wooden vessels)
full of milk, as a slight offering for our kindness
to their children.
The sua had gone down before we had
finished our repast; and, pedestrians as we
were, to think of returning to Killarney, a
distance of eight Irish, miles, after the fatigues
of the day, was out of the question ; but what
was to be done? where was a lodging to be
procured? Th.e question, however, was soon
settled by our friend, Daniel' O'Donoghue,
who volunteered the use of his cabin and all
it contained for our service ; and, as a further
inducement, offered to slay a fat iamb to give
us welcome.
Without many words the invitation was ac-
cepted; and, having mounted: the shelties^ we
crossed the ford and proceeded towards Inch
House, near which stood the cabin of our
.worthy host, Daniel O'Donoghue.
179
CHAP. X.
A NIGHT IN THE GLENS.
It must be acknoi/vledged that there was some
little difference between Gorhani's Hotel and
Daniel O'Donoghue's cabin; which latter was
a long low structure, having the usual accom-
paniment of a yard full of all sorts of dirt and
litter. The very approach to the door presented
an obstacle to entrance, which a London ex.
quisite might have considered insurmountable;
for this approach consisted of a narrow, slippery,
badly paved causeway, leading between two
filthy stagnant pools, which, as they were dis-
turbed by a brood of hard-drinking ducks, sent
forth no very grateful effluvia. The causeway
being passed, we entered and began it survey
the interior. And now for the general effect —
an outer room, with a partition wall dividing
it from a smaller inner room, in the centre of
which partition was a doorway, but without a
door, and even that to the outer room, which
gave entrance to the house, could only be
regarded as an apology for a door, having
180 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
80 many cliinks and crevices that every vagrant
breeze whistled through at will. But a door
was of little consequence^ as the entrance to
the cabin stood also in the capacity of window,
being constantly left open during the day, in
order to admit light to the outer room, and at
the same time to allow free passage for the
smoke; acting in the capacity of deputy to the
huge vent, which to very little purpose occupied
the full breadth of the gable, and overhung not
only the fire, but also a sort of bedstead placed
on one side of the hearth. As a balance oo
the other, a seat of rude mason work was
constructed*
The rest of this apartment was occupied by
a large deal table, a few straw-bottomed chairs,
a tub and two keelers placed near the door, con-
taining potato skins and sour milk, into ivhicfa
two gaunt greyhounds and a parcel of vociferous
young pigs (bonnoves) were dipping their muz-
zles with all the voracity imaginable, squeaking
and growling the whok time. Against the
partition wall already mentioned, at eidier side
of the doorway, was placed the coop and the
dresser; the one full of cackling hens, and the
other containing a grand display of earthen
A KI6HT IN THE OLENS. 181
ware^ basons, jugs, and plates, wooden nugs,
trenchers, aiid a saltcellar, two wine glasses, one
able and one unable to stand without being
propped up, and, grandeur of grandeurs, a tea-
pot, with two cups and three saucers. In the
upper shelf were sundry holes, through which
were stuck half a dozen iron spoons ; from a
nail on one side of the dresser was suspended
a small looking-glass, with a red painted border;
and underneath stood, in a row, an iron pot, a
brass skillet (manufactured from a gun of the
invincible armada), a pot-oven, and a griddle.
The apartment was surmounted by a black
smoky roof, from the couples of which dangled
long fibres of soot and cobweb over the earthen
floor beneath. So much for the outer room ;
now for the inner. One side was occupied by
two bedsteads, between which and the wall
was hung a piece of matting ; at the opposite
side was a window about a foot square ; over
bead was raised a loft made of hurdles, and
having a ladder for ascending and descending
— a bundle of straw lay in one corner for the
hounds; two chairs and a chest in the middle
of the room, which answered the purpose of a
table, completed the furniture of the dormitory.
182 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
We were congratulating ourselves on the
prospect of a good night's rest, for the beds,
notwithstanding my description, appeared ex-
cellent, and had snow-white sheets; but further
inspection was checked by the bleating of a
lamb—'* Ba, ba."
" Our host," exclaimed Mr. Lynch, *' is
doubtless going to kill the promised lamb for
supper; but I dare say you have as little in-
clination as myself for such summary cookery.
Let us procure for the poor animal a re-
prieve."
It was not without considerable persuasion,'
and even then much against his will, that
Daniel 0*Donoghue was prevailed upon to
lay aside at least for the present, his murderous
design^ This matter was scarcely arranged
before our ears were saluted by — Tweedle dee,
tweedle dum — eek hum^ hum eek — the sounds
of a fiddle and bagpipe ; and directly piper
and fiddler entered the outer room, followed,
I verily believe, by all the Donoghues in the
glen, men, women, and children ; while our
careful host, to screen us from the vulgar gaze,
hung a large sheet before the doorway of the
inner room.
'- •- ' '■^jr ^ ~»^-' t^ -» ■•
A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 183
^^ You may as well give up all thoughts of
rest till morning," said Mr. Lynch, " for I
perceive we shall have nothing but fiddling and
dancing and whiskey-drinking till daylight.*'
" That being the oase, I see no objection,"
said I, " to our joining the revels — suppose we
do so?"
Mr. Lynch having expressed his concurrence,
we stepped forth from the apartment which
had been given up to us, and found the outer
room thronged almost to suffocation ; even the
very doorway was crowded with the merry
faces of people all agog for fun.
An Irishman may be said to love fighting
well, whiskey better, and dancing best of all ;
indeed his legs seem to move instinctively at
the sound of the bagpipe ; and hence it hap-
pened that the useless door was no sooner
taken off of its hinges and placed in the middle
of the floor, than Paddy Haly made his bow
to Mary Donoghue, and flinging off his brogues,
called for {i double jig, and began to caper
away on the prostrate planks, making them
rattle again with his thumping, as he went
through the various movements of a tnoneen
184 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
jig — at the same time snapping his fingers and
uttering a jojous whoop.
The assemblage did their part, and gave
loud rent to their admiration at every new
fling from Paddy Haly: indeed, to render such
movements the more conspicuous, and that not
a single step might be lost, three or four tall
fellows volunteered to act as candlesticks, and
with large pieces of blazing bog-dale in their
hands, they stood directing the light upon the
steps of the dancers. It was an effect worthy
the pencil of a Rembrandt !
Paddy having concluded bis moneetty by a
^^^■■W^w*w^^iv^«a*ia«a^^>WH«^v«l«i«H««w^OT^«~wiB«i^l
A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 185
bow to the piper, sat down, leaving the lady
to look for another partner, which she was not
long in finding; Tor spying Tim Murnane in a
corner, she unhesitatingly walked up to him,
dropped her courtesy, and then resutned her
place on the door. Upon the challenge, Tim,
as in duty bound, stood up, scratched his head,
looked askance at the lady, called for the fox-
hunter's jig, and away they went. When this
was concluded, the lady sat down, and left Tim
to make his bow to whom be pleased ; and in
this manner did one alternately give place to
another, till all had their heart's content of
dancing.
Of the moneen it is almost impossible, by
the pen or pencil, to convey an idea ; to be
understood, it must be seen. I will however,
to the best of my ability, recount the figures.
Down the middle — up again — set to your
partner — change sides — set again — change sides
again— ^set again — dance up to your partner-—
recede — ^dance up again — recede again — turn
half round with one hand, back again with the
other — set again — turn round with both hands,
and bow to the piper.
There are however a variety of figures; and
186 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
as for steps, they are numberless, and, to use
the vulgar adage, change *^ as fast as hops ;"
but words are quite unequal to picture the
activity and dexterity required in the perform-
ance, the grotesque flinging about of the legs,
the snapping of fingers, the whooping and'
hallooing, the grinding and stamping, the
thumping and bumping, and yet all in perfect
' time, with the quickest and most complicated
movements ; so that th^ spectator is divided
between laughter and admiration at what is
really at once an absurd and an extraordinary
exhibition.
During the dance our worthy host was deal-
ing about whiskey with unsparing hand, or, in
the language of the glens, *' galore ;^^ and as
he did not forget to help himself, by the time
he sat down, Daniel O'Donoghue was what is
called ^' pretty well.'" Then it was that his
heart began to swell with pride, as he gazed
on the glensters around ; and often did he
stretch forward to shake hands with us, as hq
exclaimed, *' These are O'Donoghues — these
are O'Donoghues— every day's luck to them,"
And any fling extraordinary in the dauce^
brought forth the exulting cry of " There's an
A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 187
O'Donoghue for you. From the crown of the
bead to the sole of the foot, every inch an
O'Donoghue."
Amid this continued revelry and dance^ a
pretty rosy. cheeked girl, after wiping her mouth
with the corner of her check apron, dropped
a courtesy to Mr. Lynch, who of course was
obliged to take bis place on the door ; and
laughable enough were his attempts at a moneen.
To do him justice, however, he got through it
with a great deal of good temper ; and then
in order to be revenged, I suppose, he put the
door aside and proposed a country dance. Here
a most glorious scene of confusion began; such
mistakes, and consequent scoldings, for it seems
a professional dancing master was present; and
as the place was narrow, and the earthen floor
indescribably uneven, such trippings, stum-
blings, and kicking of shins were there as baffle
all description.
When the country dance was over, and before
the door was replaced, not on its hinges, but
on the floor for moneens ; I managed to pick
up the following tale from the schoolmaster,
who had been a great traveller in his youth,
having visited Lisbon, Cork, and Skibbereen,
188 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES;
and who was esteemed, next to the doctor, the
raost learned man in Glanflesk.
*' Who is there so ignorant/^ said he^ after
two or three hems to clear .his Yoice, ** as not
to have heard of the town of Dingle, or, as it
was called in the days of good Queen Bess,
The Dingle — but the name which pleases me
most of all, is that high-sounding one of Dingle-
decouch — but by whatever name you may
choose to distinguish it. Dingle, The Dingle,
or Dingledecouch, be it known that it was
ever and always a most famous place, for a
variety of very cogent reasons.
** And first, it is said that a man may be
arrested there for twopence ; but, secondly,
living is so very cheap ''^ that he ought not to
owe twopence, for tliere you may get a good
house for three or four pounds a year, and,
being close to the vast Atlantic, you may get
fish for a song, if you happen to have a good
* Of this assertion I had no bad illustration in the
spring of 1825, when I dined in Dingle, after visiting
Smerwick Harbour. My dinner consisted of a very fine
small turbot with lobster sauce, a pair of fowls, and some
bacon, with vegetables — greens and potatoes, for which
dinner, neatly and well served, I was charged ntne*pence I
-»->-<»<i-'*::i.. ^ ^ *r '"J- »- •-or.,-'* - .^ r .««.•
A NIGHT IN THE GLEN8« 189
voice-^potatoes dog cheap, and linen for next
to nothing; but as fur meat, sorry am I to say,
it is so scarce an article, that whenever a sheep
is killed the bellman is sent about to inform
the neighbours of such an important affair;
end the death of a cow becomes quite an era,
from which they date all subsequent events.
** Well then, near this famous, cheap, fish-
loving town of Dingledecouch, lived Robert
Fitzgerald; I can^t say exactly what relation
he stood in to the Knight of Kerry, or if any
beyond being a Geratdine. Robert Fitzgerald
was by a trade a mason ; and not only that, but
he was said also to have been a freemason, and
was consequently suspected of being an adept
in the black art.
** His appearance was by no means prepos-
sessing, as he was a low, squat, dark-visaged
man, with a roost unconscionable squint, and
long black hair, which in matted locks curled
around his brow in huge and forbidding
clusters.
^^ This aspect, together with his reputation
ds a wizard, rendered him an object of fear
and suspicion to the country people, who
generally laid to his charge any misfortunes
190 LEGCJI0S OF TBK lAKES.
which heSdi then or their cattle; and in his
own line of hnmrm no one cared to interfeve
with him, bj which means he was left in the
quiet and undisputed poneaaion of the building
trade in IHngle.
'< ' I wonU put np with it any longer/ said
Mr. HicksoUy one morning in a terriUe passion;
and no wonder, for Kt^erald, who was doing
some mason work for hint, had kept the job
on his hands for upwards of six mcHiths; and
though, considering he was to be paid by the
day, no brother builder will be inclined to
blame him much, yet as Mr. Uickson's pocket
was to bear the brunt, it is no wonder he should
be rather angry, although,, proverbially, the best
tempered gentleman in the whole county. ' I
won't put up with it any longer,' said he ; ' I
suppose you think I can't get any one to come
between you and the work, but youVe quite
mistaken, for there's the two Neils just come
from the north, so I discbaige you this minute,
you old sorcerer; and now let me see what
good the devil your master can do you, Fitz-
gerald.
'^ 'Tis a bad thing to speak of the devil on
any account^ and His very seldom that much
A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 191
good comes of it: but Fitzgerald made no
answer, he only gave a most ominous squint^
and mwiXere,A badetshiny 2iS he walked away
with his trowel in his hand, and his hammer
under his arm, wiping his dark forehead with
the comer of his leather apron.
^< No sooner had Fitzgerald departed, than
Mr. Hickson proceeded to Mary Murphy's
house, where the two Neils were lodging.
" * How are you, Mary ?"
" * Very well, I thank your honour; and
proud I am to see your honour looking so
bravely this blessed morning.'
'** Thank you, Mary; but- where are the
two masons that came to lodge with you,
lately ?'
« € Why your honour, it isn't two minutes
since they went out; is it work your honour
would have for them ? if it is, sure I can send
them up to the big house the moment, they
come in, and 'tis they are the quiet dacent by*s
any how; but I thought Fitzgerald had your
honour^s work, and. they say it isn't lucky to
cross him.'
^^ ^ Fitzgerald ! I have just turned the rascal
away, and intend giving the work to the Neils ;
'^^ 1
192 I.EGEMDP OP THE LAKES.
SO, Mary, sead diem to me, and as you value
my favour, none of yo|ir stories about Fitz-
gerald and the black art; besides, you are a
sensible woman, and ought to see that the
fellow is only scheming to keep the work to
himself; so good bye, Mary, but remember —
not a word/
^^ Now Mary, though she remembered very
well, couldnH, for the life of her, resist the
desire she had to tell the Neils all about Fitz*
gerald ; for besides the inclination a woman
feels for every thing forbidden, Mary was a
real believer in the power of the black art,
i
and all the stories she had heard of Fitzgerald.
When die two Neils came in, and Mrs. Mary
Murphy saw what likely, proper young men
they were^ she thought it would be a mortal
sin to let any harm come to them for want of
a little bit of advice ; then having told them
about Mr. Hickson's work, she advised them
to have nothing to do with it; telling them
how Fitzgerald became a freemason in spite
of his Reverence Father Sheehan, how he
refused to confess the sacret, and how his
reverence wouldn^t give him absolution, or the
rites of the church ; how Fitzgerald had sold
A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 193
his sowl to the devil, who gave him power to
play the dunnus by the black art^ and how, in
consequence, no one dared to cross him. But
the young men being glad to get employment^
pnly laughed at Mary's hows, and without
further parley set off for the big house, and
engaged with Mr. Hickson.
'^ Things went on well enough for some
time, and many people said that all the stories
about Fitzgerald, were only old women's
pishogues; but those who knew better shook
their beads, and said it was only the calm before
the storm.
" ^ Who are them going across the bay,
Norah ?^ said Fitzgerald, one fine morning as
he stood at his cabin door, looking at a boat
that had just left the shore.
*' * Wisha then, 'tis only the Neils going
across to the quarry for stones,' said Norah>
who was an old woman that used during the
day to brush up and take care of Fitzgerald's
cabin^ for be w:as a lone man.
"/The Neils is it? run, Norab, and bring
me a cool of the salt water.'
Norah did as she w^s desired^ at the same
time wondering what he should want with the
VOL. II. o
194 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
salt water; so, though she was desired to go
home, she thought it no harm to hide herself
in a corner of the loft.
*^ The morning was as fine as ever shone, the
sea calm as glass, and not as much wind stir-
ring as would serve to fill a whistle, when the
unfortunate Neils left the shore; and yet
they had scarcely reached the middle of the
bay, when a terrible whirlwind arose, which
upset their boat, and the young men were
swallowed up by the remorseless deep.
" Old Norah swore, that at that very time,
she saw Fitzgerald, from her concealment in
the loft, take a wooden bowl, and put it floating
on the cool of salt water, then muttering over
it, the bowl began to spin about, and the storm
to rise, till at last when the bowl was upset,
he stopped his muttering, and said all was
right, for the Neils were done for. Be this as
it may, it is certain that for ever after, no one
ventured to molest the wizard of Dingle.*'
Such was the story which I managed to
glean from the schoolmaster, related in my
own words^ rather than in his; and he had
scarcely concluded it, when the Glensters
began to depart, first, however, wishing us a
A NIGHT IN THE GLENS. 195
thousand slantha gots in some of our friend
Daniel's whiskey.
It was broad day ; but, before retiring, the
doctor suggested to our hostess the preparation
of some hot water, to make a tumbler of
punch. The worthy dame, not having a kettle^
soon made her appearance with a great iron
pot of steaming water, enough for that matter
to make punch for half the parish ; we managed
tp bail the water up with a wooden bowl^
made our punch in a respectably sized jug,
drank it out of teacups, and in ten minutes
after it was finished, Mr. Lynch and myself
were in bed, and snoring away, according to
the doctor's account, ^^ like two Irish nightin-
gales.^
196 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
CHAP. XI.
THE RETURN.
Cock a doodle do! grunt! grunt! cackle!
cackle ! and worse than all, bow wow wow !
that settles the matter, no more sleep is to be
had — the cocks crowing, pigs grunting, and
hens cackling, were bad enough ; but the bow
wow of that abominable crop-eared cur, puts
the matter beyond dispute, and awakens me to
a perfect consciousness of existence, and that
I am in Daniel O'Donoghue's cabin, with the
sad reflection, that this is the last day I have
to spend in the neighbourhood of Killamey;
for to-morrow 1 have secretly made up my
mind to depart.
The last day — 'tis an awful word ; but there
must be a last day to every thing ; and there-
fore why should I grumble at a phantom of my
own creation, like Mrs. Shelley's Frankenstein?
grumble, did I say ? — I don't intend doing any
such thing ; but, as this is my last day at Kit-
larney, I intend to make the most of it.
" Halloo^ Lynch ! awake — arise — how the
THE RETURN. 197
dog snores ! Halloo — halloo — halloo — what,
are you not awake ? it is high time we were
abroad, and doing Oh, doctor, how are
you ? glad to see you this morning — which
way does the wind blow f"
<^ It has just changed to the right point/'
said the doctor : '^ though it has been very
wet and stormy all the morning, and now a
thousand torrents are dashing down the hills ;
but the blue sky is beginning to be seen, while
mist and cloud are curling up the sides of
the mountains, and clearing away from their
brows."
'' An admirable description indeed ! I must
have it for my Guide Book.''
'^ Guide Book !" exclaimed the doctor, and
I resumed — " If you can prevail upon Mrs.
O'Donoghue to have eggs, and butter, and
potatoes^ and milk, prepared for breakfast on
our return, I should like, above all things, to
sally forth, and enjoy the fresh air. In truth,
doctor, though I am not apt to complain, my
head feels rather queer this morning from the
whiskey punch, the effects of which, I am not
quite sure I have exactly had time sufficient
1. ^
198 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
to sleep off. What say you, Lynch, to going
forth into ' the light of things,' as your friend
Wordsworth does after a debauch ?*'
" Agreed," said the doctor; " Wordsworth's
a sensible man enough for a poet."
'* No bad plan that," said Mr. L^nch, '* but
does Wordsworth really do so ?"
^^ He certainly says so — sayings and doings
at Killamey — eh. Lynch— an excellent title for
the Guide Book, only 'tis a plagiarism ; but
what matters a plagiarism on the most original
mind of the present day ?''
Having forded the Flesk, we turned the
southern corner of Philadown, and took that
branch of the glen which leads towards Ken-
mare. Here the scenery was extremely wild,
rocks piled upon rocks in rude confusion, and
numberless torrents foaming, and little shining
streams rushing down through the . hollows
and channels of the hills. A walk of about
two miles brought us to the wooded side of
Croghane ; the opposite side of the glen, which
was also wooded, we were informed, was called
Ruscru.
The road now rising, now falling, sweeps
THE RETURN. 199
along the base of Croghane, overshadowed by
woods ; through which we had not proceeded
fary before the sound of a torrent burst upon
us^ and we soon perceived a raging flood,
which foamed down the side of the hill, and
through the wood, leaping from rock to rock,
and in many places environing both clumps
and single trees, which seemed to grow out of
the water, as their green branches swept its
boiling surface.
After a feeble attempt to trace this torrent to
its source, we found that neither our time, or
our appetites (so much for whiskey punch be
it remarked) would permit us to remain longer;
and without proceeding farther through the
glen, we turned our faces towards Daniel
O'Donoghue's hospitable dwelling.
Perhaps it will be as well, to prevent disap-
pointment, that I should inform the visiter of
Glanflesk, that to see the torrent, as we did,
in all its glory, splashing — dashing — bubbling
—and foaming, he must go there immediately
after a very heavy fall of rain. Nay, it will
even be worth his while, unless of a rheumatic
disposition, to endure a good wetting, which.
-- .■&!-
200 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
by the by, he will run every chance of re*
ceivingy to obtain a peep at the torrent, though
we were fortunate enough to escape with dry
jackets.
An excellent breakfast may be made on
potatoes, butter, eggs, and milk, by men who
have walked among the mountains of Kerry.
And we having done ample justice to what
Mrs. O'Donoghue placed before us^ bade
farewell to Daniel, who not only refused, but
was highly offended at the offer of payment.
As we journeyed towards Killaha castle, on
our way to Killarney, Mr. Lyhch drew forth
his pencil and note-book, and in a short time
produced the following
FAREWELL TO GLANFLESK.
Farewell to the land of the mountaiD,
To Glanflesk and its wild-hills farewell ;
Where rushes the rock-springing fountain,
Where murmurs the stream through the dell.
Where the dark mountains frown in their pride,
And rocks in disorder are thrown.
Or lie shivered along the hill-side,
Like the relics of worlds that are gone.
THE RETURN. 201
Where the wild herds that graze by the rill
Look up to their friends of the sky;
The eagle that mounts from the hill,
The heron and hawk floating by.
Where Croghane spreads a£ir its green wood,
And Ruscru nods across to its brother,
And Philadown^s cliff, rough and rude,
Still adds to the prospect another.
Where the Looha and Clydagh roll on.
Each down its own glen proud to sally ;
Till fondly uniting in one.
As the Flesk they wind through the green valley.
Where famed Labig Owen is shown.
And Glensters relate the proud story,
Of the outlaw who made him a throne
And a bed on this rock rude and. hoary.
O those were the days when afar
The ' Eagle's shrill whistle ' was sounding ;
And down at that note to the war.
The sons of the rude hills came bounding.
And still on the hill — in the glen.
Though kind to each stranger that comes.
There are hearts just as ready as then.
To fight for their rights and their homes*.
* Pro aris et fbcis.
£02 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
But farewell to the land of tihe mountain.
To Glanflesk and its wild-hills farewell ;
Where rushes the rock-springing fountain,
Where murmurs the stream through the dell.
On clearing the glen, we found ourselves
under the green hill, on which stands the
ruins of Killaha castle. This hill we ascended.
Three sides only of a square tower remain ; and
as we looked up at its roofless and floorless
height, we perceived the ancient stone chimney
pieces, still clinging to the walls.
At some distance from the castle, on the
northern slope of the hill, are the ivy-covered
remains of a church or chapel, around which
are scattered a few tombs and grave stones.
*' God be with you, Father Reily," ex-
claimed the doctor, as he passed one of these
memento mori's ; '^ for you were as good and
as gay a little fellow as ever stepped.'^
Upon inquiry, I found that Father Reily,
was one of those jolly, social, charitable, old,
" butter-booted " priests, who were so different
from the political, unsocial, Jesuitical, sly,
young, canting, soberly-clad priests of the
present day, for which reason, I copied the
inscription on his tomb.
THE RETUKN. 203
'^ THIS MONUMENT WAS ERECTED
BY
THE PARISHIONERS OF BARRAOUV AND KILLAHA9
AT
THEIR SOLE EXPENSE
AS A TOKEN
OF THE
LOVE, REGARD, AND ESTEEM, THET HAD
FOR THEIR WORTHY AND CHARITABLE
PARISH PRIEST,
THE REV. JOHN o'REILY,
WHO DEPARTED THIS LIFE THE 10 NOV. 1834, AGED W YEARS,
REQUIESCAT IN PACE. AMEN/'
As a curiosity, I was tempted also to tran-
scribe the following inscription : — I now wish
that I had copied the grotesque sculptures
with which the stone is decorated, for (and yet
how can I use the word when , applied to a
monumental record?) the amusement of my
readers.
t
* I.H.S. *
" THIS TOMB IS ERECTED BY
DAVID H-T. COLLINS IN MEMORY
OF HIS WIFE BRIDGET, WHO
DIED MAY 18, 1823.
REQUIESCAT IN PACE. AMEN/^
^4 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
(Here follow four lines in the Irish cha-
racter, of which the translation by a native
bard, may perhaps be sufficient to satisfy the
reader's curiosity.)
" Pray dorCt intrude or move a lonely tribe,
Thafs here entombed excluded from your strife ;
If you presume to $coop this vault not thine.
May God beshrew thy rude supplanting guile J^
Leaving the ruin, and with a hearty shake
of the hand bidding farewell to the little
doctor, Mr. Lynch and I returned to the base
of the hill, and proceeded towards Killamey.
On our rigHt lay the wooded demesne of
Brewsterfield descending to the Flesk, which
river we shortly after crossed by a bridge, and
leaving Brewsterfield behind, pushed on for
the town as fast as we could, the road pos-
sessing nothing particular to detain us.
Rather less than two hours brought us to
Killamey, where we arrived just in time to
witness our Mangerton Mountain friend, who
had passed us shouting so wildly, and singing
so gaily, something about
'' A bagnet and gun,
To fire out of fun."
THE BETUEK.
picked up bya recruiting party of the XXXIX
— my grandfather's old Tegiment — much to the
envy and aBtonishment of & group of butter-
dealing friends and companions.
" I'm as tall as the aargeant," said he.
" What will Katty say now i—kurroo — hoo."
" Fuith then, you are that, and 'tis no lie for
you, Jem, and taller loo, though his honour
ihe sei^eant's a fine gentleman, surely."
" 'Tis a soldur you'll be, Jem Carey,"
" Go along wid you, you cavboge*" said
• A vulgar fellow.
206 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
Jem, darting a side glance wordiy of remem-
bnince ; '' and don't be spaking to me — sure
I'm listed, and TU shitte yon dead if jon'U be
talking — Atirroi— What will Katty say now r"
<< Faith then, I'll be bail, I'll tell you that, for
sore there's the song ready made and all abont
it.'' And the speaker turned away from the
recruit to one of the group, and began singing
in the tone, and with an expression of the
keenest irony, to the well known air of *' Mis-
tress Casey."
^ Sail Kearney met widi Katty Doyle,
As she was selling her plaices,
They both sat down upon a step
To tell their dismal cases :
Says Sail, ^ Rathore, do you know what.
That my blackguard is listed?
He's gone to fight the French they say,
God knows, I often wish'd it.' ''
Here two or three voices joined in chorus
with the singer :
** Then gilla ma fain will you give us a drop,
'Cause why, I am in sorrow ;
And if my cloak I was to pop*,
111 give you a throw f to-morrow/'
Row de dow, dow, dow — row de dow, daw,
* To pop — ^to pledge. f A throw — a dram.
THE.KETURN. 207
dow-^—row, roWy r<m, from the recruiting party;
almost drowned the closing notes of the chorus,
though increased by the roar of at least a dozen
voices.
At the door of the hotel I met Mr. Gorham,
** Sare," said he, " I hope you will forgive the
very great liberty I have taken of putting two
English gentlemen, who have come over about
the mines, into your room; but really, sare,
they are such parfection of gentlemen^ and I
have no room in my whole house unoccupied,
and you, sare, being so good-natured, and not
coming back last night, and — "
" And in short,'' said I, rather displeased,
" you have given my room to two strangers,
Who—"
'^ By no manner of means, sare,^' said the
Gorham, with one of his irresistible bows.
'^ Not for the world, sare; but you see, as you
did not return, I just made bold to allow them
to sit at your table in preference to the one in
^fae bar, until you did come back. Oh, sare,
they clearly understand that they are to quit at
the wind of a word ; but they have just sat
down to an early dinner, that I was in hopes
would have been clear and clane finished before
«08 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
your return, ,.re; b„t r„ t,,^ ^ ^
fetcHed out in a minute.''
I / -^^K**' ^*''''*™-««PP<'« Mr. Lynch »J
for a. our appetite, are concerned; and we
find them cannibal, or «-ater-drinker» ; realJ,
•e would be too cruel a proceeding ^7^^
Ir«hn,an to expel an Englishman fron. hi
tob e ajid that too at the moment of dinner."
Did you ever write for the stage ?" i„
quired Mr. Lynch, in a whisper; «Lt aeT
tence sounds mighty like what theatrical folk
term a clap-trap,"
"I make it a point never to answer imper-
Unent questions founded upon impertinent
remark, Mr. Lynch," said L . Qorha^
announce us if you pleas^e.pJain that t^e'
room IS ours-and you may as well ascertain
tlie names of the mining English gentlemen for
our sausfection."
Gorham did as directed-and after a fe«.
words of mutual explanation, Mr. Lynch and
".yself found ourselves at dinner in company
with Mr. Jones and Mr. Jenkins, bolh as f J
as outward appearance went, agreeable, and
THE RETURN. 209
civili2;ed persons. The former^ as was elicited
from him in conversation, possessed consider-
able knowledge of geology, mining, and mine*
ralogy, his friend Mr. Jenkins, on these sub*
jects, playing second fiddle; but when that
of law or music was introduced, he was ^' flauto
primo."
" This morning,'' said Mr. Jones, as we sat
sipping our wine after dinner, *' I devoted to
the examination of the peninsula of Mucruss.
The peninsula runs nearly east and west ; the
western part of it is brown stone, the east
entirely limestone, till this is lost under the
gravelly hills ; the mine is on the south side of
the peninsula, a little on the limestone side of
the juncture. Beginning a little to the west of
this point, I observed the brown stone laying
in thin strata, with smooth surface dipping
about forty degrees to the south. All the
rocks in this neighbourhood, and I believe all
on the south side of the peninsula, dip rapidly
to the south, but I doubt if it ought to be con-
sidered as the natural bed of the stone. In
the Ross mine it dips very gently in the
same direction. Advancing to the east, I met
with a hard gray limestone, brown on the out^
VOL. II. P
F
210 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
side — further east, the brown stoue passing
into schist upon the limestone, and containing
lamuiae of schist, and schist confining ianiinae
of the limestone alternately. The limestone
is also in places honeycombed on the surface —
both sorts of rock are marked with veins of
calcareous spar, which often continue uninter-
rupted through several different layers. But I
fear I tire you, gentlemen."
" The fact is/' said Mr. Jenkins, *^ my
worthy friend, Mr. Jones, is, as you perceive,
a scientific talker about rocks and stones, and
has come to Killarney determined to shut his
eyes upon the lakes, to see only the mines,
and to speak only about cobalt and copper —
Is it not so, Jones ?*'
Here Mr. Jones smiled, but made no reply.
'^ Gentlemen/' continued Mr. Jenkins, '^ I
am by profession a lawyer, and not, as you will
perceive, a briefless one, for here is a case
(drawing forth from his pocket a paper) which
I had submitted to me, and which really baffles
my comprehension ; nor can 1 obtain any
assistance in the matter from my friend on the
opposite ^ide of the table. The terms, I doubt
not, being perfectly incomprehensible, must be
THE RETURN. 24 1
Irish; and^ iodeedj with the view of gaining
some light on the subject, I brbught the case
with me for consideration during my hoiiday
excursion. You have listened so patiently to
Mr. Jones's discourse, that I cannot help
fancying you must have a knowledge of the
subject — will you therefore allow me to read
the case ? which perhaps you may be able to
elucidate."
Mr. Lynch and myself, to whom this question
was addressed, nodded assent, and Mr. Jenkins
commenced.
CASE.
" In the month of February, 1826, Edward Jones of
Penzance agreed to let for thirty-five years to Thomas
Francis Hawkesly of the same place, at the rent of three
thousand pounds per annum, all his lead, tin, and other
mines in the Parish New Giffin, and the agreement
contained the following clause — ' The said E. Jones will
within three months from the date hereof scollop, work,
and wallop all the craturs, mouths, ostiums, or tin mines,
and skiffingen connected with the said demised premises
after the manner and custom of the County of Cornwall,
and fiirther, that he will show a good title to the best of
his skill to the said premises, &c.'
'' Mr. Jones has scolloped, but he has not yet walloped
the premises, and he. contends that he is not bound to
do both because such is not the custom (see sec. 9. Rot.
Comub. lib. i. 157). Mr. H. on the other hand says,
.s*r!«*L.*r*
■*^
£ 1 2 LEG EN DS OF TU E LAKES.
Mr. J. agreed to wallop according to the ccstoxn, and
that wallop he miiBl — and that there is no custom -vrhicU
says that a walloping according to the custom can be
effected by not walloping at all. As walloping is an
expensive preliminary operation, it is material to the
parties to know on whom the expense mnst fidl. Un-
doubtedly Mr. II. has entered into the mines, but in
consequence of their not being walloped, he found it too
hot for him to remain or to allow workmen to be sent in.
The title may be shortly stated tbus^< In 1748 F. H.
devised all his mines to G. P. F. for two thousand years,
and after the determination thereof to the heirs of A. L..
in fee. Previously to his death, G. P. F. executed a
square feoffment to his executor (such being the custom
here),4ifter which he levied two fines, sur donis de quan«
tum, by the following description : ten mines, one hundred
acres of land, one hundred acres of ground, five hundred
scoUopcasters, five hundred engine misters, five hundred
snicks, five hundred snickjerys with the appurtenances
in Penzance ;' he then suffered a recovery, which was
considered void as a recovery, because the tenant to the
precipe had lost himself, and was non inventus. The
executor of G. P. F. died in his lifetime, and made his
will, devising all his real estates to P. M. in tail male,
then G. P. F. died, leaving Mr. Jones his heir at law.
A. L. in 1791 executed a bargain and sale, but he did
not enroll the same wiUiin the prescribed time^ and
suffered judgment to go by de&ult in action^ which was
brought against him.
** Your opinion is requested on the following questions
raised by Mr. Hawkesly, a solicitor.
" 1st. Is Mr. Jones compellable to wallop the mines
or not?
THE RETURN. 21 3
*^ 2nd. If not, must he not allow Mr. Hawkesly's
workmen the usual customary allowance of swinery and
rostration ?
*' 3rd. Was the effect of the square feoffment to create
a discontinuance at common law, or to vest a mere autre
vie estate, determinable at the end of the two thousand
years term ?
** 4th. Will the two fines work a negative fee simple ?
and will two terms of one thousand years make a fee
simple ? and if so, will not one term of two thousand
years have the like effect ?
" 5th. Is a snickjery (meaning a twisted firepiggin) an
incorporeal hereditament so as to pass with the mines ?
** 6th. Can the void recovery be revived by issuing out
consistory corpus writ against G. P. F*s. devises T
** 7tli. If not, is the bargain and sale good according
to the maxim of Fieri potest fieri mavult quid minis hie
bujus ?
'' 8th. Can a good title be made in any shape or way?
** 9th. If it can, in what manner ? '
" Now," continued Mr. Jenkins, " I have
perused this case carefully over seven times.
1 have read it backwards as well as forwards
in order to take an unprejudiced view of it,
but yet the terms scollop and wallop I cannot
get satisfactorily defined by any authority >vhich
I have been able to consult. One thing appears
probable on the third question raised — that the
square feoffment must be an Irish or Celtic
term (although to me it is not very clear),
214 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
because there are four courts in Ireland. But
\iliat music is that ?''
*^ Surely, it is Gandsey's pipes,'' said Mr.
Lynch.
*' Pipes!" repeated Mr. Jenkins, " I never
heard any thing sweeter in my life. Certainly
these are not the Irish pipes — the droning Irish
bagpipe ?"
Here Gorham entered to know if I should
wish for Gandsey's company — and, true to his
word, took the opportunity to inform Mr. Jones
and Mr. Jenkins that he had made preparations
for their reception in the bar. Both gentlemen
at the hint instantly arose ; but I begged them
to remain, for the wine we had taken just made
us feel on terms of easy acquaintance ; and I
should really have regretted the loss of their
society. As an inducement^ I promised them
Gandsey and his unrivalled music.
Gandsey entered, as on a former occasion,
leaning upon his son. ''Ah, Gandsey," said
I, *' this was very good of you to come to me,
especially as it is my last evening in Killarney;
and here are two gentlemen, who have arrived
from England, that I want to introduce to
you."
THE RETURN. 215
'^ I thank yoU; sir/' was the modest reply of
Gandsej, *^ you are very good, sir."
^^ Here is a glass of wine — but perhaps you
-would prefer spme whiskey punch T^
^^ I drink the wine to your honour's good
health and long life/' said Gandsey; ''but the
whiskey punchy sir, if you please, harmonizes
better with the aaelodies I am going to play,
shrJ'
** Waiter, some whiskey punch. — Gandsey,
I wish much to hear * the Eagle's Whistle/ so
I think the war march of the O'Donoghue is
called — ^You can play it of course."
'^ Without any kind of doubt 1 can do that
aame/' returned Gandsey. Boy, is your violin
in tune? there's the note — Week— week — week
— squeek — that will do. Now, sir — but first,
if you please, suppose, sir, that I give you,
because, you see, it is the oldest of the two
war marches of the O'Donoghue, * the Step
of the Glens.' "
(Here Gandsey played the barbarous strain,
which the reader will find annexed, No. 1.)
" Oh, 'tis the O'Donoghues were the boys
that could stir their stumps down the side of
a mountain," said Gandsey, when he had
216 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
concluded. *^ And now, sir, here's the Eaglets
Whistle; that was their other war march, jou
know. Boy, tune up that note a leetle higher."
(Here Gandsey played the melody, No. ^2.)
'* How close is the resemblance,'* remarked
Mr. Jenkins, " between the Irish add Scotch
pibrochs. 1 remember "—^ahd he' was abbiit
to proeeed'with, I have no doubt, some lierai-
nisceoce or reofiark, which would have adorned
my projected Guide> Book, and of'> which I
should iiave monopolized the credit, had not
Gandsey run his righf hand^ dp the pipe, with
Tir — Or^-lee^-rcH-tir — a — lee-^ru — Tee— ^boom.
'^ Come, Gandsey," said I, *^ another tune^
if you please — ^but sonething wkh a history, to.
It. •»
. << ril give.you,^ sir,'' said Gandsey, ^ the
hunerftation for ' 'M^les the sthsber,' a real
ould air of Erin."
(Here Gandsey played the melody. No. 3.*)
*'i\nd now,'^ said I, when he had concluded,
" now for the history." ...
" Why, you see, sir,"i8aid£raudsey, placing
the pipes at rest upon his left kn^e^ *^ why, you
see, sir, Myles the slasher was an O'Reilly '—
^*
Vol //. to /her Page ?J6.
m
7
,
m ..
t
o
OB
H
I
<i
S
t
I»i"^w p»
THE RETURN. 21?
and if be was, he was like every one of the
same name, fond of Erin, for she was his
country. Well, sir, when the bloody Crom-
wellian wars were going on, you see, Myles
the slasher headed his clan, and died like a
brave commander, defeiKJing the bridge of
Finea, in the County Cavan, against that rob-
bing and murdering thief of the world, Crom-
well* 'Twas a fine death he had; and 'tis as
fine a tune that I've played for you, sir, to
keep his memory up among the people, as
clrn be, in my opinion. But if he did die all
covered with wounds, 'twas on the flat of his
back that Myles O'Reilly the slasher was
laid, with a thousand voices after him, in the
monastical church of Cavan, though 'tis since
destroyed, to build a horse-barrack ; and these
were the very words that were carved out over
him, upon as beautiful a gravestone as could
be:
" LECTOR NE CREDA.S SOIUM PERIISSE MILONEM
HOC KAM SUB TUMULO, PATRIA VICTA JACET*."
* The pistols of Myles O'Reilly, of large size and
ancient Spanish inanufacture, are in the museum of
Trinity College, Dublin^ presented by Mis. Peyton (now
£18 Ii»90SKBS OF THE UkKES.
99
*^ This lamentation pleases me so much,
said Mr. Jenkins, ^' that I hope Gaodsey can
&voiir OS with another."
*^ Oh, lliat I xsoiy sir, iamentations in plenty
—for sure 'tis little else is left, for green Erin
or her children, but sorrow and< — ''
" Whiskey," said Mr. Lynch.
'^ True,'^ said I, ** as Blackwood calls us in
his magazine, ' a persecuted and hard drinking
people.' "
'^ But the lamentation," said Mr. Jenkins.
'* 'Tis the widow's lamentation," said Gand-
sey ; ^ you see her husband, <me Wi&san
Mrs. Macnamara), tiie aster of the lateixeoige Nugent
ficgmclds, Esq. of ^he Comity Lettrim; and the powder
horn of '* Myles the slasher,'^ a huge ox horn polished,
and with rude brass ornaments, is still in the possession
of that lady. In the genealogical history of the* house
of O'Reilly, compiled by the late chevalier O'Gbrman
(whose MSS. are at present in my custody), for General
Count Alexander O'Reilly, comnjander in chief of the
Spanish infantry under Charles III., and second in
command at the siege of Gibraltar, there is a fiill and
interesting account of Myles O'Reilly. Since I have
been led to mention this genealogical history, I may
as well notice a curious fact connected with it, that
O'Gorman, whose papers prove him to be an ignorant
heraldic quack, actually received one thousand guineas
from Count O'Reilly for this compilation.
THE REtUBN. 4l9
Crottie, wa^ banged through the means of
one Davy Norris, a thi^f of an informer, who
came round him, and bifttrajed faim. And so
Mrs. Crottie^ wfaose owik name was Burke, a
mighty decent woman she was, and come of
decent people, made up this lamentation about
her husband."
Here Gandsey played the ttttlody, No. 4,
to which he sang the following wordsj
Oh, William Crottie, your days are ended,
And your poor wife lies unbefriended,
-^n a cold jail, where none can come near her;
Her dearest friends this day won't hear her 1
Oh, ullagone 1
But soon I^ll leave this Irish nation,
And sail away to the great plantation ;
For let me go among Turks or Heathens,
I'll meet with more pity than in my own nation.
Oh, ullagone !
Oh, William Crottie, I often told you
That Davy Norris would come round you ;
'Twas he that took you, as you lay sleeping.
And left me here in sorrow weeping!
Oh, ullagone !
Then came the day of sad repentance.
When William Crottie received his sentence ;
The drums they did beat, and most moumftilly sounded ,
And my poor senses were at once confounded.
Oh, ullagone 1
220 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
I bear great blame from all these women.
Yet III nerer forsake my dear companion;
When first I knew him he was no Toiy,
But now he*s gone there's an end to my gloiy !
Oh, ulU^otie !
Adieu, ye hills, and adieu, ye mountains.
Adieu to Glanworth's crystal fountains.
Where often I waited for Crottie, my dariing.
To bring me home both gold and starling !
Oh, uli^cme !
'* And now, Gandsey,*' said I, *' mix yourself
another tumbler of punch, and then let these
gentlemen hear an Irish melody with something
more of sentiment in it, than the singular strains
you have already played. Suppose some ditty
which an unfortunate lover might sing to the
mistress by whom he was neglected and aban-
doned. You have an air of this description
I doubt not, Gandsey ; for such heart-breaking
affairs must have happened in Ireland as well
as elsewhere.'*
*' Oh, plenty of them, sir," said Gandsey;
and he immediately commenced the melody^
No. 5.
" Yes, that is Irish — true Irish," said Mr.
Jenkins ; ^* how exquisitely the violin accom-
paniment harmonizes with the pipes. Pray,
whose arrangement is that?"
THE RETURN. 221
*' *Twas I, sir/' replied Gandsey, "just fixed
it out for boy to learn."
** Have you any words to this melody ?"
inquired Mr. Lynch.
** None, sir," said Gandsey, "though they're
much wanting to it; but I have some words
of own making too, which Til singy with the
greatest pleasure in life, to the air of ^ Bob and
Joan.' Come, boy, scrape away."
To Killamey vre will go,
And see fair nature's beauties,
The mountains tipped with snow,
And covered with arbutus. .
Oh, then, to hear at night,
At Gorham's, how entrancing,
Old Gandsey play his pipes.
Which set the maids a dancing !
Tow, row, row, row, row,
ToW, row, row, row, reddy.
Tow, row, row, row, row.
Can't you just walk steady ?
Gandsey, to promote
Harmonious tunes so jolly,
Strikes up a favourite note
To banish melancholy.
He lilts it up in style.
Upon his pipes so merry,
The gravest faces smile
To hear his Paddy Carey.
Tow, row, row, row, row, &c.
2!2>2 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
He plays Kitty from Adilone,
And Maureen dee na Glenna,
And Noreen on the road, %
With the flashy rakes of Mallow ;
Attghrim OFerthrown,
The &11 of Condon's castle,
Cornelius Lord Mayo,
Who was the boy to wrestle.
Tow, row, row, row, row, &c-
Hell give Jackson's Morning brush
And Billy Joy the joker,
With the famous Kouth Polthogue,
Described by Crofton Croker ;
The ball of Ballina&d,
The song of Bannah Lannah,
Plounkum Moll in the Wadd,
And Shaune.O'Dwyr na Glenna.
Tow, row, row, row, row, &<;•
On the lakes when we do go,
We'll have a boat and whiskey,
With men and oars to row.
Their hearts both light and frisky;
A dinner we'll provide.
We shall have full and plenty,
Two hampers stuff*d and tied.
And wine enough for twenty.
Tow, row, row, row, row, &c.
Through Turk Lake we will pass
Straight up to Dinis Island,
There we'll dine upon the grass.
And drink like Captain Ryland.
THE RETURN. €23
" Home sweet home ** ITl play,
Then our boat will sail across ^ir,
An^ take the shortest way
To bring us back to Ross^ sir.
Tow, row, row, row, row, &c.
Now our excursion o'er,
At Gorham*s what a pleasure,
To fill the glass once more.
And drink beyond all measure.
Tis that's the way to see
The lakes of neat Killarney,
So don't be doubting me.
For I never was at Blarney.
Tow, row, row, row, row, &c.
" Well sung, Gancfsey. Here, mix yourself
another fumbler of tunch — tumbler of punch
I mean,^' said Mr. Jones ; " Irish whiskey is
good — Irish songs are good — Irish music is
good — Irishmen are fine fellows — 'tis a tine
a country " — hiccup — " a fine country."
" 'Tis true for you, sir," said Gandsey, '' very
true for you.'' And here^ although I am per-
fectly unable to account for the fact, my recol-
lection of what followed completely fails me.
224 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
CHAP. XIL
THE DEPARTURE.
A WEATHERCOCK IS the usual appendage to
most church-steeples in Ireland, but this, the
steeple of tLe church at Killamey does not
possess. Yet, if it does not boast a weather-
cock glittering on its apex, a weatherfisb may
there be seen — a noble salmon, looking as if it
had just made a spring out of the lake. And
now the nose of the aforesaid salmon is pointing
due east, as much as to saj — '' I promise you
a fine day for your journey to Cork, and I wish
you a very pleasant bit of a jolting.''
Vastly polite, indeed for a salmon; but pray.
Mister Fish, how do you know I am going to
Cork? Well, it's not much matter; since you
do know it, there is little use denying the fact,
and I have therefore only to return you my
very sincere thanks, and make you my very
best bow for your promise of fine weather —
and hark — Boo — 6o5— ^ boo — mod — he — here
comes the coach from Tralee, and there is my
friend Mat Crowley singing his everlasting
-r»"
THE DEPARTURE. 225
Riley, really, you're the boy, Riley.
** Halloo — halloo — is my bill ready? Are
my traps in the hall f Is my boat cloak there i
— >^here is my sketching seat f "
*' Go long wid you/* said Doolan, who was
standing in the hall ; '^ go long wid you, will
you, and be after bringing the gentleman's
'ketching sate,^^
"You shall have the bill directly, sare,"
said Gorham; ** Dan, finish the hpnourable
gentleman's account — sketch it out neatly,
Dan, and bring it here — pshaw, Dan, what's
keeping you ?"
*' The bill, sir.'*
"Very moderate, indeed — Hum — waiter —
chambermaid — Hem — Boots — Hum — Here's
your money, Gorham."
^* 1 hope, sare — thank you, sare — that, sare,
every thing was made comfortable — and a
pleasant journey — much obliged, sare — (aside)
why then, Dan, sure enough, as I said the v^ry
first day I saw him, he's a neat little fellow,
and a rare sketcher.'^
VOL. IT. Q
226 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
^< Here's the sketching seat,*' said a waiter
tp Doolan.
'< There, put it down along witli his honour-
able honour's other things — there — ^and sure,'
continued Doolan, ^< the best resate of all for
not catching couldy when quality goes out
taking off the views here and there about the.
lakes, is for them never to sit down upon the
wet grass/'
<^ I wonder what detains Mr. Ljnch," said
I, ^' really it is very odd. Waiter, be so good as
to send some one to Mr. Lynch's cottage to
let him know that 1 am just going, and wish
to see him."
'^ Yes, sir, but he will hardly be here in time
as the horses are just putting to."
'^What, the horses putting to? Secure the
box seat for me, if you can."
Boo — boo — boo — mod — he — ^^ The coach is
just going, sir."
^' Your honour won't forget the waiter,"
^' Something for the chambermaid, sir."
" Long life to your honour! Sure you won't
be after forgetting poor Boots, that does the
work for them all."
'* Please to remimber the packer."
THE DEPARTURE. 227
'^ My good people, I have arranged all your
demands with Mr. Gorham/'
« Och, never mind him, sir,— 'tis I that
always packs the jontleman^s portmantles —
your honour may ax Mr. Powell there, and
sure he'll tell you the same."
** Hurrah for Florry — ^here I am — ^your
honour will throw a trifle to poor Florry, for
the sake of Kerry — Hurrah !"
^ Get out of the way, will you, till I see his
honour. Sure heMl be after taking the widow's
blessing along fi^iJ him."
** I'm just over it, sir, God help me, I'm
subject to the falling sickness, and haven't a
halfpenny to buy me bit or sup, or a mortal
to look after me."
" 'Tisn't going your lordship is away from
us, without leaving something among us."
Boo — boo — boo — mod — he, sounds the horn,
die crowd shout, and the coach whirls off.
The Main Street is left behind, and we rattle
once more over the paving stones of Hen
Street; bid farewell to the foul Fair hill, dash
by the park, and pause for the last time on the
bridge of Ballycasheen.
*^ Riley, stop the coach can't you ;" roars a
- -- -- -
£28 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
bare-legged boy, at tbe same time running full
speed from the Lower or Woodlawn road which
joins the coach road near Ballycasheen — ^the
driver pulls up, and inquires — ^* Well, what do
you want, ma boughillf*
" Would therg be a Utile jontleman on the
coach ?" said he, panting for breath.
** Doubtless 1 am the person — what's the
matter ?"
" Here's a parcel and a letter for your
honour from one Mr. Lynch — oh dear, how
I've run."
" Very well, it's quite right — ^here's sixpence
for you, my lad — Riley put this parcel in the
coach pocket — and now let me see what
Lynch has to say for himself — ^his letter ap-
pears long enough at all events."
'' MY GOOD FELLOW, Garden Cottage.
** I DOUBT not you were much surprised,
and, perhaps, not a little displeased in conse-
quence of my non-appearance at the inn this
morning after the promise I had made ; but I
trust surprise and displeasure will alike vanish,
when you find that I have been devoting my-
self to your service.
THE DEPARTURE. 229
'' You have already flattered me by approving
of some fairy tales which I picked up in the
course of my summer rambles among the
mountains ; I mean Florry Cantilion^s funeral,
Diarmid Bawn, and one or two others which
appear in the second volume of your Fairy
LiCgends.
<< Revelling in all the luxury, as the misery
of half pay idleness is styled, the idea that I
might please by my pen others as well' as
myself, broke in upon my mind like a new
light, and I determined to make a few notes of
the tales which I heard, and of what was daily
passing around me. This, although my own
amusement and employment were the first
objects, was certainly done with some vague
idea of ultimate publication. But when you
mentioned an intention of writing a Legendary
Guide Book to the Lakes^ 1 instantly deter-
mined to resign all my notes and papers into
your hands, and have been occupied in ar-
ranging my collections for your acceptance.
'^ Receive them, therefore, and use them as
you will, but there is one subject on which I
would warn you, and that is, if you take it into
your head, as you hinted, to introduce the good
230 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
gentry, as well as ' the good people ' of KiU
larnej^ or to priot the little anecdotes respecting
them picked up during jour visit; you most
bear the whole burden on your own shoulders,
for I have neither cause nor inclination to fall
out with any of the worthy inhabitants of the
kingdom of Kerry, ' where the cows are little,
and the hills are big/ In addition to these
notes, many of which I fear you will scarcely
be able to decipher, I send you some verses,
and a poem of considerable length iu the
Spenserian stanza, called Sir Ronayne of the
Lakes, which I also place entirely at your dis-
posal.
** ^gain I say, make whatever use you please
of my packet, and wishing you an agreeable
journey, and all possible happiness,
I subscribe myself
most faithfully yours,
R. Adolphus Lynch.
*' P. S. I enclose you a Killarney bank note,
to prevent the possibility of any pecuniary
embarrassment on the road/*
£32 LEGENDS OF THE TAKES.
Bat bark !— ,B5a — Ko — 655 — ^ir55 — he and
DOW we ascend the bill which leads to the
first turnpike gate from Killamej, and as we
dash throngby I tuni to take a last lingering
look at the Lake of Desai<»d — a little further
and all is lost, save the tops of its majestic
mountains.
^ Farewell sweet scenes ! penshre once more I turn
Those pointed hills and wood-fringed lakes to view
With fond regret; while, in this last adien,
A silent tear those brilliant hours shall moom
For erer past. So from the pleasant shore.
Borne with the straggling bark against the wind
The trembling pennant fluttering looks behind
With vain reluctance ! 'Mid those woods no more
For me the voice of pleasure shall resound.
Nor soft flutes warbling o'er the placid lake
Aerial music, shall for me awake.
And wrap my charmed soul in peace profound !
Though lost to me, here still may Taste delight
To dwell, nor the rude axe the trembling dryads fright.
*>
Such was the farewell to Killamey, breathed
almost with her last sigh by Mrs. Tighe, the
beloved and lamented authoress of Psyche.
'^ Make whatever use you please of mj
packet/' says Mr. Lynch. Well^ I have done
THE DEPARTURE. £33
SO ; yet, excepting a few slight editorial cor-
rections and additions, his packet is printed
pretty nearly as I received it. As to quizzing,
I am quite ready to bear the brunt, although
I fear on that score I shall have my friend
Lynch himself on my shoulders; and speaking
on this point, it is only an act of candour
towards that gentleman, to give him full power
to claim (should he have any wish to do so) as
his compositions, and his alone, all the unac-
knowledged rhymes which appear in these
volumes, with the exception- of the snatches
of popular song occasionally introduced.
It has latterly been, and with some justice,
the custom to deprecate the growing taste for
what Mr. Hood calls '' an improper use of
proper names." For example, within the last
thirty years Mr. became Mr. A.
Mr. A. took the astronomical appearance of
Mr. A******g with an occasional variety as
Mr. Ab*rw**g, till at length the mysterious
cognomen of Aberwang stood fearlessly re--
vealed to the public gaze. The latter undis-
guised method of writing names as they are
intended to be read, instead of obscurely hinting
at them, has always appeared to me the most
£34 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
manlike, as well as the most agreeable, and I
ha^e therefore adopted it; although no one
could deplore more than I should do, thus
subjecting myself to the charge of personality.
These little volumes were intended only %o
amuse ; and it would be indeed perverting the
purpose for which they were written, if any
misconstruction on the part of the reader could
attribute other motives to the compiler. Those
to whom I am known will readily, I feel con*
vinced, forgive the introduction of their names,
and acquit me of any thing like intentional
offence. While those to whom I am a strainer
will, I trust, regard these volumes with the
indulgence which is due to a merejeu d^esprit*
And now, seriously speaking, it is full time that
I should acknowledge the many obligations I
am under. My visit to Killarney was too
short, and too hurried, to admit of any thing
beyond a few blotted notes and random
sketches. I have, therefore, as is obvious from
almost every page, mainly derived assistance
from an old schoolfellow, Mr. Lynch, who
has been for some years a resident there. Mr,
J. H. Bradshaw, with his usual kindness, fur-
nished me, from his valuable Irish library, with
THE DKPARTDBE. 235
the manuscript tour of a distinguished architect,
^'hicfa has afforded me some pictorial hints;
and to Lucius O'Brien, Esq., M. P. I am
indebted for a most amusing journal of his
visit to the lakes. The materials thus obtained,
I have appropriated without further acknow-
ledgment, in the manner which best suited
my purpose, or my fancy.
Since the first volume was in print, Mr.
Lynch has written to acknowledge some proof
sheets which I sent him ; and an extract from
bis letter, as all good works should conclude
with a moral, will aptly illustrate the muta-
bility of human affairs at Killarney.
'^ I am glad to find that the Legendary Guide
Book, or rather, as you style it, * an apology
for one,^ is in the press. Do not forget to put
a copy in your ' portmantle' if you should per-
form your promise of a visit next year. When
you come, you will find a few alterations ; for
instance, your humble servant no longer in-
habits Garden Cottage. Your friend Mountain
Mahony has resigned his public employment,
and has entered into the private service of
Mister Bob Shughure, who styles himself < Sta-
236 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
tioner, Replevinger, and Magistrate's Clerk.'
Ohy that you could bear him^ on a court day,
enlightening the magistrates with regard to an
information, the preamble to which be twangs
through his nose, with a most mellifluous
brogue, as thus — ' Sir, this ish an informashun
for assault, and batter-ry, and mishdemanor,
and showeth that whereas Michael, commonly
called Mick Mulcahy, alias Saint Michael, alias
Finnegan, alias the Bulgar, did mosht vilently
asshault, bate, bruise, batter, and otherwise ill
use, abuse, and maltrate with bis clinched
fisht, &c. &c.'
'^ In the few proof pages which you have
sent me, I find rather an unjustifiable use of
my name, but I forgive you on condition of
your never again laughing at my verses. My
namesake, GeofFry Lyncli, I perceive you have
mentioned. I think you might as well have
left that anecdote out ; for I assure you he is a
worthy young fellow, of unexceptionable cha-
racter, and his being blackbeaned at the club
could only, as I am happy to see you state, be
occasioned by party business. You have also
alluded to Doctors Murphy and Mayb^rry,
both very worthy men. Doctor Murphy, I
am sorry to inform you^ is since de^d, to the
THE DEPARTUBE. 237
great loss not only of his o\vn family, but of
tbe whole county.
<< Turner, the Scotch steward, has turned
himself out of Mucruss, and Picket is gone to
the Brazils — for the rest, some of our story
tellers have departed this life. Poor old Molly
amongst others is gone. She had a wake, at
which no less than three girls, besides her
daughter Norah, got husbands, and was buried
at Aghadoe, followed by three baronies, where
a neat tombstone has been put up to her
memory. Doolan, however, still stands his
ground, and always inquires after your honour,
is just as ready to give visiters a touch of the
marvellous ; and there are still enough left to
show the truth of the descriptions in your
Legendary Guide.
'^ If you come again among us, let it be, I
entreat, at the race time, as you will then be
sure of a stag hunt. I believe the races are to
commence about the latter end of next July.
By the by, you say such pretty things touching
my rough notes and the papers I put into your
hands, that I really have an idea of appearing
before the world in the character of an author
next year; I do not mean as author of a quarto
poem on Derrycunnihy Waterfall, according to
£38 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
yoar soggestioD, bot — ^i'il leave yoa in saspense
until either I beat up your quarters or you
mine.''
** P. S. I enclose you the pamphlet which
you requested me to procure*.
* Of this pamphlet I am induced to copy the title
page and piefece, as illustrative of some aUusioos to the
case of Maiy Mindian, which occur at p. 71, of diis
Tolume.
THE
Btformation and Persecution
OF A T0U9G WOMAS NAMED
MART HOTSIHAHy
OF KILLASHET9
• Who renounced the Errors of the Roman Catholic Church,
and became a Protestant in December^ 1826.
TOGETHER WITH
THE STATEMENT GIVEN BY THE MAGISTRATES^
As the Result of their Inquiry into the Circumstances of
the Persecution of this young Woman;
AND ALSO
THE DEPOSITIONS TAKEN BEFORE THE BENCH^
Whichcontainafaithfid Epitome of the entire Transactions,
" MAGNA EST VERITAS ET PREVALEBIT.**
KILLARNEY Ist APRIL, 1826.
PREFACE.
The Publisher is induced, at the desire of many of his
friends, to lay before the Public, in the shape of a pam-
phlet, the etUire statements and letters to which the
THE DEPARTURE. 239
We stop the press, as the newspaper phrase
runs, to announce the receipt of the following
letter— did ever letter come so opportunely i
" SIR,
" It is with enthusiastic pleasure I received
the letter directed to me from London; Mr.
J I ■■ --■-■- 1 , , ^ ^
reformation and persecution of Mary Moynihan, of
Killarney , gave rise, conscious that even a cursory perusal
of them v^ill be sufficient to convince the most sceptical
of the truth of the following facts :
First. — ^That Mary Moynihan's conversion was caused
solely by a conviction of the errors of popery, produced
by the reading of the sacred Scriptures.
Secondly. — ^That she was persecuted publicly and
privately by her family, her priest, and by others, in
consequence thereof; and that the house in which she
resides was annoyed by the priest, who repeatedly
threatened to drag her out by force.
Thirdly. — That the statement put forward by the
bench of magistrates, as the result of their inquiry, wa^
.not a faithful detail of the evidence of the eight witnesses
who were examined.
And lastly. — ^That the evidence fully rebuts the un-
kind aspersions which the magistrates thought fit to fling
at the character of Mr. Mag rath.
The Publisher now respecifully brings the partial
statement of that respectable bench (composed of eleven
Roman Catholics and one Protestant !), together v^ith all
the other documents connected with it before the tribunal
of " Public Opinion."
" Spectemur Agendo."
240 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
Gorham sent it to me to Lord Headlej's, near
Killarnej, which wheD I received, I gave it to
his lordship to open for his amusement. He
was greatly surprised to find in it a piece of
music of so ancient a date. He caused the
boy to bring his violin and play it for him,
which he much approved of. He is one of
the best judges of the day ; and, you may
depend on it, sir, I would never have attained
my meridian but for his superior dictation to
me. When I told his loFdship about you, he
brought down the Fairy Legends to have it
read for me. I am somewhat jealous you did
not afford me some conspicuous place in that
very amusing and romantic work, as you did
to Tim Carroll ; for to hear my
Fox and hounds, with Judy Joyce the joker,
And famous jig Palthough, described by Crofton Croker,
would have been a flattering and heartfelt
honour^ besides being the only man of my
profession distinguished in this neighbourhood.
I enclose you an old tune, which was O'Dono-
ghue's lamentation for the loss of his privileges,
when the penal code was put in force against
the Irish. I have three or four hundred of
those beautiful old melodies, never got hold
. THB. DEPARTURE. 241*
«f hy Moore, Stephenson, or. Bunting, once
played by the harp of Erin, now slumbering itf
the dust. Now as you are sometimes among
the nausical society of London, a thought' struck
Bie^ sir, that you might make oiF with those by
way of .publication, or by depositing them in
the museum, among the antiquities for future
inspection, as they are all from Carolan, the
ancient and celebrated Irish bard and musician.
It is a pity they should be lost, if any thing
could be done vO preserve them. If you en-
courage me, I will contrive to have them sent
to you by the assistance of the said nobleman,
who is a friend to science. He is decidedly
the best man for this part of the south of
Ireland, that was ever remembered to come
into it ; as the book says of O* Sullivan — Nulla
manus . tarn liberalis, atque generalis, atqu^
universales, quam Headlialis.
** I should like to hear from you, sir, when
time allows you. to make arrangements. So
no more at present from your
Very humble servant,
James Gandsey,
Lord Hec^U^s Piper k^* ■
VOL. 11. R
M2 LEGENDS OF THE LAKES.
<< P. S. Pat O'Kelly, the poet, sir, desires
his respectfiil compliments/'
*' Ah, that P. S. on the envelope looks like
the Gorham*8 writing — but who Pat O^Kellj
is I know not — Billy the mule, Doolan's friend,
I remember perfectly — but O'Kelly — Yes, I
recollect now — it must be the same who greeted
Sir Walter Scott on his arrival with the fol-
lowing:
" Three poets, of three different nations bom.
With works immortal, do this age adorn ;*
Bypon, of England — Scott, of Scotia's blood —
And, Erin's pride, O'Kelly, great and good.
Twould take a Byron and a Scott, I tell ye,
RoU'd up in one, to make a Pat O'Kelly/'
Kind and indulgent reader, methinks I hear
you exclaim, ^ What is all thb chapter about ?
Here is a rigmarole of a preface, and in the last
chapter of the last volume — how odd !'* — And
pray where else should it be ? Most people^
it must be acknowledged, commence their book
with a preface, which nine readers out of ten,
ay, ninety-nine out of a hundred, are sure to
skip. I have, therefore, taken this method to
surprise ydu into the perusal ; besides, I think
ju -^ J •^ssaesmesm
THE DEPARTURE. 243
J can show that my preface is where it ought
to be ; for if you act as most readers do, that is,
begin the book at the end, and read backwards,
I think you will find the preface in its right
place.
So making now our final bow,
And checking all our blarney,
We* II bid adieu, good folks, to you,
And likeioise to Killamey.
Then if your eye aU wearied out
With reading troth of mine is.
Content yourself— no morels to come,
For here, you see, is
FINIS,
.-'■^''
TOPOGRAPHICAL INDEX.
Aghadoe, i. 15. 162. ii. 141.
Ahahunnig Glen, ii. 122.
-Abahunnig River, i. 2.
Alexander's Rock, i. 67.
Arbutus Island, i. 58. 193.
' Ardagh Lough, ii. 143.
Ardfert, ii; 92.
-Ash Island, i. 67.
Ballycasheen, i. 2. ii. 130.
227.
Ballydowny, i. 15.
Ballyheigh, ii. 92.
Beaufort, i. 167. 177.
Bed of Honour, i. 70.
Belleyue,i. 15. 47. 152.
Blennerville, ii. 92.
Bran Loch, vide Rillbran.
Brandon, Lord, his De-
mesne, i. 185. 187. ii. 6.
Brandon Hill, ii. 92.
Brickeen Bridge, i. 64. 238.
Brickeen Island, i. 64. 231.
Brown Island, i. 70. ii. 141.
Cahir-Con-righ, ii. 92.
Cahimane, i. 67. 109. ii. 141.
Cannon and Cannon Balls,
i. 211.
CarriLn TuM, i. 178.
•Carrig a Fourt, i. 67. 74.
189.
Carrig a Hocka, i. 67.
Castie Lough, i. 67. 110. ii.
141.
-Castlemain Mountains, ii.
141.-
Cherry Island, i. 47.
Claunteens, ii. 55. 111.
Cloughereen,i.ll0.ii.2.23.
Clough na Cuddy, i. 18. 20.
Club House, Killarney, i.
9.93.
Clydagh River, ii. 177.
Coffin Point, i. 210.
Coleman's Eye, i. 210.
Coltsman's Castle, i. 4. 109.
ii. 121.
Corrigmalvin, i. 153.
Courtayne's Folly, i, 5.
Cowm Duve, i. 186.
Cowm na Coppul, ii. 8. 22.
149.
Crohane, ii. 150. 198.
CromiglauD, i. 31. 200.
Dane's Fort, i. 110.
Darby's Garden, i. 69.
Derrycunnihy, i. 194.
Derrycunnihy Waterfall, i.
196.
Devil's Island, i. 231. 235.
Devil's Punch Bowl, i. 29.
145. ii. 5. 149.
Dinah River, i. 14. ii. 103.
Dingle, ii. 168.
Dingle Mountains, i. 138.
Dinis Island, i. 220. 231.
Dinis Pool, i. 220. ii. 46.
Doolagh, i. 236.
Drake's Bolster, i. 121.
Droumhall, i. 109.
Droumhoomper Castle, i. 3.
Droumirourk, i. 110.
246
TOPOGRAPHICAL INDEX.
Druidical Circle, ii. 130.
Bundag Bay, I 231. 235.
Dunloh Castle, i. 177.
Dunloh Gap, i. 17d.
Eagle's Island,!. 193.
Eagle's Nest, i. 31. 212.231.
il. 46. 141.
Esknamacky Glen, i. 204.
Eye of the Needle, i. 60,
Fair Hill, i. 6.
Falvey, Mrs,, her Free-
holds, ii. 102.
Farm XiOdge, ii. 106..
Flesk Cottage, i. 109.
Flesk Priory, i. 109.
Flesk Riyer, i. 3, 67. 109.
ii. 160. 177.
Flesk Road, i. 109. ii. 62.
Fussa Chapel, i. 157.
Galway River, i. 195. 204.
Garden Cottage, i. 95. ii, 80.
235.
Gheran Tqel, i. 178.
Giant's Coffin, i. 193.
Glanflesk, i. 112. ii. 121.
159. 167, 198.
Gleni Mountain, i. 31. 110.
170. 220.231.244. ii. 141.
Glenlt Bay, i. 63. 220. ii. 51,
52, 53.
Gleni Cottage, i. 63. 220.
Glen of the Horse, see
Cowm na Coppul.
Gleun a Heelah, ii. 105.
117.
Green Hills, 1. 134. 231.
Grenagb, i. 166. ii. 141.
Gun Rock, i. 64.
Heading, i. 194. 199.
Hen and Chickens, i. 65.
Hyde!s Cottage, i, 194.
Inch House, ii. 177.
Innisfallen Island, L 51. 68,
ii 51, 52. 141.
Irrelagh Abbey, i. 123.
Kenmare, the Earl of, his
House, i. 30.
Kenmare, the Earl of, his
Park, see Park.
Kenmare River, ii. 6.
Kenmare, Road to, i. 138.
ii. 160.
Kerry Head, ii. 92.
Kilcummin Church, ii. 108.
Killagy, ii. 140.
Killaha Castle, ii. 160. 202.
Killarney, Town of, i. 11.
u. 7. 42. 58. 60. 134, 224.
Killbran, Lake of, ii. 105.
107.
Kippoch, ii. 151.
Kittane Loch, ii. 121. 140.
149. 156,
Knockanes, ii. 91.
Knockeen J)ubh, ii, 55.
Knockreafi i* 15.
Labig Owen, ii. 159. 170.
Lakefield, i. 166. ii. 141.
Laun River, i. 166.
Lochaune Bower, i. 157.
Lochawn Sloch, i. 238.
Long Range, i. 212.
Looha River, ii. 177.
Lough na Brach Barrig, i.
135. 237.
Lower Lake, i. 238. ii. 140,
Mac Carty's Island, i. 193.
MacgilUcuddy's Reeks, i.
31, 167. ii. 141.
Macroom, Road to, ii. 160.
Mangerton, i. 31. 109. 138.
231. ii. 1.23. 121.149.150.
Man of War, i. 211.
'TOPOGRAPHICAL INDEX. 247
Mieniska, i. 166. ii. 141. Prospect Hall, i. 47. 162.
Minister's Back, i. 68. 82. Purple Mountain, i. 178.
Molly Soke's Cross, i. 162.
Mouse Island, i. 61. Rabbit Island, i. 70.
Mucruss Abbey, i. 110. Reen Cottage, i. 47. 71.
Mncruss House, i. 67. Ronayne's Island, i. 190.
Mucruss Mine, i. 236. ii. Ross Castle,i. 42. 100.244%
209. ' Ross Island, i. 41. 45. 47.
Mucruss Road, i. 30. ii. 141.
Mucruss Shore, i. 66. 236. Ross Mine, i. 67. 136. 243.
Mucruss Peninsula, i. 231 . ii. 209.
237. 244. ii. 141. 200. Ross Road, i. 31.
Round of Beef, i. 211.
Newfoundland Bay, i. 200. Rough island, i. 66.
Russ Bourky, i. 201.
Oak Island, i. 201. Ruscru, ii. 198.
O'Donoghue's Broom, i. 66.
O'Donoghue's Horse, i. 66. Slieve Mish, ii. 92.
O'Donoghue's Library, i. Sgarrive a Kuilleen, i. 169.
47. Skeheen-a-Vibo, i. 1 1 6 .
O'Donoghue's Pigeon Stag Island, i. 68.
House, i. 47. Strap an' Gad, i. 200.
O'Donoghue's Prison, i. Sugar Island, i. 67.
49. Sunday's Well, i. 80.
O'Donoghue's Table, i. 66.
O'Donoghue's Wine Cel- Tiemabowl, ii. 121.
lar, i. 234. 236. Toomies Mountain, i. 31* '
Old Weir Bridge, i. 220. ii. 62. 167. 178.
46. 61. Tralee, ii. 92.
O'SuUivan's Cascade, i. 62. Tralee Bay, ii. 91.
O'SuUiyan's Punch Bowl, Tralee Mountains,!!. 7. 141 »
i. 63. Tralee Spa, i. 222.
Tullig,ii. 116.
Paddy Clane's Leap, i. 217. TuUig Spa, ii. 105. 119.
Paps, ii. 122. Turk Cottage, i. 231. 235.
Park House, i. 30. ii. 104. Turk Lake, i. 231. 238.
Park, the^ ii. 103. Turk Mountain, i. 31. 109»
Philadown,ii.l68.160.170. 138.231. ii. 141.
PhilaquUla Point, i. 61. 67. Turk Waterfall, i. 134. 139.
168.
Plummer's, Miss, Island^ i. Violet Hill, i. 109.
219. ii. 137.
Poul an Iffrin, i. 141. West Demesne, i. 16. 17. 47»
Prison Lodge^ i. 96. Woodlawn, i. 109. ii. 63.
ERRATUM.
VOL. II.
Page 157, line 22, for lights, read light.
'
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